I've got an Alpine HU (cant remember model no and its cold outside) anyway 4x 50w rms

Now my comps I have are:

http://www.alpine-europe.com/content/english/a2413.det.%84SPS-171A%94-copy.htm

Now these are 50w rms ea., originally I was going run the comps of the HU (being the money saving mo fo I am )

But after recents visits to talk audio they swear by amping them despite the HU being more than capable.

Done a bit of eBaying and look how cheap this amp was had :eek:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18796&item=5856697026

I had the old version of this amp (VP2) and it was fine

I am sure I can pick the blackbox 2 up for

No

No

Excellent reply!! Really well thought out, given me a lot to think about, thanks pix

Good components - like yours will work fine from the headunit. But for gods sake - get an amp and enjoy them.

Seriously though, a small amp will make a huge difference, and for

Cheers Tom

Think i'd be silly not to whop another amp in there

Can someone leave Tom positive feedback for me

I am a big fan of amping component speakers.

I run a Boston Acoustics amp for my fronts.

My tip:

Cut the wires in your ISO adapter that go from your stereo to the front speakers.

Then run the speaker wires from your amp to the ISO adapter and solder them in there.

No need to run the speaker cables into each door doing it this way!

I am a big fan of amping component speakers.

I run a Boston Acoustics amp for my fronts.

My tip:

Cut the wires in your ISO adapter that go from your stereo to the front speakers.

Then run the speaker wires from your amp to the ISO adapter and solder them in there.

No need to run the speaker cables into each door doing it this way!

Nice one, I am all up for tips, I shall be using that one

Cheers Tom Can someone leave Tom positive feedback for me

Gladly, however I am unable to as I am not a fully paid up member of freedom

Yet

if your buying an amp specifically for the components then don't do what josh says but buy a 4 channel amp and get rid of the cross over, run 2 sets of new decent speaker wire to each door and make the most of whats there

i have a BIG shiney new 4ch amp sat in my dining room and i want to do this for my components rather than have the cross overs in the doors as it is now.

Ah, fook it. I'm leaving mine Pioneer HU powered, even if they are almost 100w RMS. Can you tell I've lost my flavour for ICE? Better start on the Sensodyne.

if your buying an amp specifically for the components then don't do what josh says but buy a 4 channel amp and get rid of the cross over' date=' run 2 sets of new decent speaker wire to each door and make the most of whats there

i have a BIG shiney new 4ch amp sat in my dining room and i want to do this for my components rather than have the cross overs in the doors as it is now.[/quote']

Over.Kill

I'm not totally clued up to what you mean Bengie? Do you mean 2 pairs of speaker wires to each door, so one merely terminates at the woofer, and one terminates at the tweeter? Wouldn't they be rated at different powers? I could be wrong but I'd have thought a tweeter would be a lot weaker than a woofer so couldn't cope with that sort of power. I assumed this is why comp sets had crossovers at all, so it took in all the power and split it how it should - I guess 80% to the woofer, 20% to the tweeter?

If the 4 channel amp is capable of having each channel well tweaked in terms of power output, then all is good.

I run my sub through this

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=45185&criteria=Car%20Amps&doy=4m2

For

amps aren't like engines jason, if they are rated at 400w it doesn't mean that they throw out 400w regardless it means that they are capable of running a load of 400w happily.

the cross overs in your doors have nothing to do with power but sound instead, they split the signal so that the tweeters get nothing but the higher end sounds and the mids get nothing but the mid range.

but obviously with every cross over no matter how good it is there is a certain loss involved where as if you had a decent amp with seperate filters for each channl you could use the amp as a cross over and as it would be splitting the signal before amplification the loss would be a lot lower so sound better.

i don't know if you have or if you headunit even has it J but tke a look in the audio controls of it and see what you filters are set at, my alpine had this and you can filter out all the bass from the components as they aren't really supposed to be doing bass. if it were me i'd be setting the high pass filter for the fronts at about 120, the rears at about 150 and the sub at about 80 -100 then all the relevant speakers will only be doing what they are designed for rather than struggling to deliver a range of sounds that they are no good at providing.

hope that helps rather than hinders

I run my sub through this

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=45185&criteria=Car%20Amps&doy=4m2

For

My front door woofers provide ALL the bass in my car I think. The rear ones are just pants, so I have faded the sound forward a bit so I just get the doors putting out decent enough bass, the front tweeters providing a good sound, and the rear tweeters giving that little for the surround effect.

I could do with setting up the HU right though. It's only just been fitted and a little clueless on all the settings - there's loads.

amps aren't like engines jason' date=' if they are rated at 400w it doesn't mean that they throw out 400w regardless it means that they are capable of running a load of 400w happily.

the cross overs in your doors have nothing to do with power but sound instead, they split the signal so that the tweeters get nothing but the higher end sounds and the mids get nothing but the mid range.

but obviously with every cross over no matter how good it is there is a certain loss involved where as if you had a decent amp with seperate filters for each channl you could use the amp as a cross over and as it would be splitting the signal before amplification the loss would be a lot lower so sound better.

i don't know if you have or if you headunit even has it J but tke a look in the audio controls of it and see what you filters are set at, my alpine had this and you can filter out all the bass from the components as they aren't really supposed to be doing bass. if it were me i'd be setting the high pass filter for the fronts at about 120, the rears at about 150 and the sub at about 80 -100 then all the relevant speakers will only be doing what they are designed for rather than struggling to deliver a range of sounds that they are no good at providing.

hope that helps rather than hinders [/quote']

I think what bengie is trying to say is use this lay out.

to be fair matt your post will make a lot more sense to a lot more people

hows the stereo doing by the way?

Excellent reply!! Really well thought out, given me a lot to think about, thanks pix

No problemo, You know how I like to help out a friend in need, guess it's just in my nature

No problemo, You know how I like to help out a friend in need, guess it's just in my nature

Pixi, as you are the ICE guru wonder if you can help with this one.

I have an Alpine Type R subwoofer (2006 model) SWR-1242D it says in the manual that the

Pixi will get back to you on that one :confused: :confused: