Ok thanks for the clarification. 

 

Dealer has advised replacing the items I mentioned in my first post so there is definitely a known issue it seems. This includes having a software update done so it clearly wasn't done at the service. Car is running ok now but they have said I should not drive it very far before having the work done so it sounds like the warranty may be a waste of money like you said.  

 

Would you you advise getting the work done that they have recommended? 

 

Sorry for for all the questions and for hijacking this post!

You need to read the Oil Spray Jet / Squirter threads and see what you think on the success of that fix.

The Dealership should have been supporting you for Skoda paying for an oil consumption test to see if you had an oil burner.

 

(EDIT) When was new spark plugs fitted at the Service or where they fitted then & then got oiled?

Edited 1 April, 20179 yr by Awayoffski

Plugs were fitted yesterday, not at the service as they had already been changed 2 years ago so they must have got covered in oil and had the damage to an insulator since then. 

 

Car never used much oil before, even when I lived in Cornwall and used to do 250 miles a week. 

 

Will look for the oil spray jet threads and see what they say. 

Hopefully all good now,

the Spark Plugs should be changed at 2 years now as most Dealerships / Techs are so no idea why they never told you.

 

If it was not using oil then hopefully it should not now.

Do not over fill the oil.

 

?

Where is it on the dipstick with a Cold Dip, 

and where is it with a Hot Check after getting the oil to 80*oC ?    Cold it should be above the Cross Hatch a bit, but below the orange plastic.

?

How much did they charge to supply and change the spark plugs?

Will look at the oil levels tomorrow and let you know. 

 

They charged £90 for the new plugs....

Today's update:

 

At cold oil was just above the cross hatch. Started car and it idled at 1100rpm for a bit and ran a bit lumpy, after 30 seconds the EML light started flashing but went off about 30 seconds later. Revs then dropped to 800rpm and I left it running for about 40 minutes until oil temp was 80 degrees. Oil level was then about 2 thirds of the way up cross hatch. 

 

Having read the threads on Oil Spray Jet/Squirters and software updates it does seem like the best idea to get that work done, even if it will be a little painful parting with that amount of money when it was something that should have been done a few years ago....

 

Then have to hope it does the trick and I don't need a new engine down the line!

 

Oh, one other thing. The car is now used rarely since I moved to Exeter, doing a couple of short journeys a week (about a mile each way) and a long run (60 miles) down a dual carriageway once a month. Any chance the change of use could have had an effect?

Please do not heat oil up with a ticking over engine, 

5 miles should have it to an indicated 50*oc at this time of year and under 10 miles to 80*oc.

5 miles is enough to do a hot check.

I would put a little more oil in, just above cross hatch cold,  top of cross hatch when hot.

Run Tesco Momentum 99 or Shell V-Power Nitro 99 if Tesco not available.

 

The EML light can show after a car has sat in a workshop ticking over and running rich and getting sooted up a bit.

 

When was the Air Filter changed of the Spark Plugs were not changed at the last service.

Best look and see and maybe get a new one if needed.

 

See how things go,  i have changed oil and lent my car and 500 miles later it was 1 litre low after 3 weeks of short trips.

Only time it used oil, with that engine. Topped it up and all was well.

This is a Jabozuma check.

 

Car and oil stone cold, open the bonnet, dip the oil.

See where it is, just above the cross hatch hopefully.

 

Open the drivers door, start the engine, no need to get in, as soon as it starts stop it.

Dip the oil.

the 0.5 litres or so went right up to the head and in the oil filter.

 

So this level on the dipstick is just the same as if you go drive 5 miles, stop 4 minutes and then dip it.

Give it a try sometime and see if the Jabozuma check saves doing hot checks.   even saves doing Jabozuma checks, because a cold check is all that is needed.

Oh sorry, my bad about letting it run. Was just a little worried about it having a problem again!

 

Air filter last changed February 2015 in major service. Is it worth going for an upgraded one like K&N or similar?

 

Have been running it on Sainsbury's super unleaded, but do occasionally put Shell V Power in on my long trip. 

 

Is it best to get the oil changed again to 5w40 now?

 

 

Stick with the oil they have in and see if it settles down.

Was it 3.9 Litres 5w 30 FS Longlife Castrol / Quantum on the Invoice>

 

NO K&N or performance filter, just a Fresh / New Standard Air Filter,

and actually a Fuel Filter change is due, even when you are told the Fuel Filter is a 'Fit for Life',  It is not...

 

The problem has in the past been Technicians doing oil changes warming oil or doing a 2 mile or 100 yard road test and over filling or under filling.

 

Personally i have been putting in 4 litres for the past 3 years.

Many technicians put in 3.9 or 4 litres by mistake, some even 4.2 litres.

THAT IS NOT A SUGGESTION TO RUN 4 LITRES, JUST BEING HONEST AT WHAT I DO, & 5w 40 FS (VW 502 00) ASDA< COMMA or Similar.

Edited 2 April, 20179 yr by Awayoffski

35 minutes ago, pwdvrs said:

Today's update:

 

At cold oil was just above the cross hatch. Started car and it idled at 1100rpm for a bit and ran a bit lumpy, after 30 seconds the EML light started flashing but went off about 30 seconds later. Revs then dropped to 800rpm and I left it running for about 40 minutes until oil temp was 80 degrees. Oil level was then about 2 thirds of the way up cross hatch. 

 

Having read the threads on Oil Spray Jet/Squirters and software updates it does seem like the best idea to get that work done, even if it will be a little painful parting with that amount of money when it was something that should have been done a few years ago....

 

Then have to hope it does the trick and I don't need a new engine down the line!

 

Oh, one other thing. The car is now used rarely since I moved to Exeter, doing a couple of short journeys a week (about a mile each way) and a long run (60 miles) down a dual carriageway once a month. Any chance the change of use could have had an effect?

It shouldn't be throwing up an EMl light with new plugs in , your cooking of your spark plugs may of messed up your coil packs , have you checked to see if your getting excessive blow by since your spark plug issue , only one place bits of spark plug can go and that's in your cylinder and out your exhaust valves 

Doesn't actually give the quantity on invoice, just says 5W-30 castrol. 

 

Do do you recommend an upgrade on the air filter Awayoffski?

Just now, pwdvrs said:

Doesn't actually give the quantity on invoice, just says 5W-30 castrol. 

 

Do do you recommend an upgrade on the air filter Awayoffski?

Keep that car standard if you ever want to do a warranty claim

2 minutes ago, thomasaspin said:

It shouldn't be throwing up an EMl light with new plugs in , your cooking of your spark plugs may of messed up your coil packs , have you checked to see if your getting excessive blow by since your spark plug issue , only one place bits of spark plug can go and that's in your cylinder and out your exhaust valves 

 

Sorry for my ignorance but what's excessive blow by and how do I check it? Plugs only changed on Friday and car has only been driven back from dealer since (1 mile). 

 

Oh yeah, good point about keeping car standard, thanks. 

Just now, pwdvrs said:

 

Sorry for my ignorance but what's excessive blow by and how do I check it? Plugs only changed on Friday and car has only been driven back from dealer since (1 mile). 

 

Oh yeah, good point about keeping car standard, thanks. 

One way is to take the oil cap off and check for gasses coming out an alternative is to check for a loss of compression id be getting this done now because if one of your exhaust vavle stems is slightly damaged or a slightly bent valve and is still holding compression and in the near future it goes horribly wrong you will be out of warranty and have to foot the bill yourself , basically you've had a bit of spark plug go through your cylinder out your exhaust port and through your turbo and out your exhaust not good at all 

Ok thanks for your help guys, will do the oil cap check and get a compressions test done too and will change air and fuel filter as well. 

An EML  Exhaust Emissions Control light is not uncommon with a Twincharger that has been sitting getting moved short distances, or after a spark plug change etc.

Obviously once the car has been up to heat, had a we blast it should not be showing.

 

IF THE SPARK PLUGS ARE IN, COILS ON, BREATHERS AND TURBO PIPE BACK WITH 'O' RINGS SEALED then there should be no EPC for Misfires or EML light showing after the car has cleared out some soot, heated up and had a proper run and gone lean and clean again.

 

So best thing, is 99 ron in a wee warm up 10 miles and then go find a nice safe 'Private' road and see how she is going.

You had no excessive oil use, you just got a service where it looks like No Air Filter, Fuel Filter or new Spark Plugs were fitted, 

and you can not even be sure they put enough oil in.

No Software Update done either, unless they did and never told you.

 

So have fun.

?

Was the DSG Software Update ever done, Service Campaign 34H7,  Mineral oil in instead of Synthetic and a DSG Software Update and a sticker in the Spare Tyre Well?

http://master.skoda-auto.com/mini-apps/recall-actions 

Edited 2 April, 20179 yr by Awayoffski

PS 

What was the cost of the oil on the invoice, 

it never said 3.6 litres VW**** Catrol 5w 30 FS LL @ £12.83 a litre etc etc   Then VAT!

 

& A TIP DOES NOT ALWAYS BREAK OFF, THEY CAN JUST BURN DOWN WHEN LEFT UNCHECKED, 

AS MANY HAVE FOUND OUT, ON TIME IS OK, TOO LATE IS OBVIOUSLY TOO LATE.

 

Plug on the Left is Standard Skoda Twincharger burnt out, tip never broke off, middle how they should stay.

DENSO on the Right, see the different length of the plugs that actually do not burn up in the 1 bad cylinder.

 

Edited 2 April, 20179 yr by Awayoffski

Oil was £36.10 and photo here of invoice showing description. 

 

Will check spare tyre well for the sticker but couldn't find anything in history saying there had been a software update. 

 

The plug on the left is exactly what one of mine looked like. 

Good.

Now they were cheap enough if charging only £10 a litre for 3.6 litres.   (odd 10 pence though)

 

I will post Skoda & VW Examples on servicing a twincharger and Castrol or Quantum oil.

VW at the bottom. 2 years ago.

Skoda at top 6 years ago.  £12.50 a litre plus 20%VAT.

 

Edited 2 April, 20179 yr by Awayoffski

PS

Never realised your car was in for a MOT.

So sitting ticking over for 45 minutes maybe, then its emissions test which i have had twinchargers failing when not being tested at VW Group Main Dealers.

Odd that, emissions too high, even been told my own car had a De-cat, so i switched on the Stage 1 gave it a wee blast and it passed.

 

So that Dealership servicing your car should have been changing your failing spark plug or at least inspecting all 4 having advised you that they really should.

If your DSG Service Campaign is outstanding then that is done free, and be sure your Software on the engine is updated, 

if there is an update available it should have been done at the service after the Tech had plugged the car in at the service.

45 minutes ago, Awayoffski said:

PS

Never realised your car was in for a MOT.

So sitting ticking over for 45 minutes maybe, then its emissions test which i have had twinchargers failing when not being tested at VW Group Main Dealers.

Odd that, emissions too high, even been told my own car had a De-cat, so i switched on the Stage 1 gave it a wee blast and it passed.

 

So that Dealership servicing your car should have been changing your failing spark plug or at least inspecting all 4 having advised you that they really should.

If your DSG Service Campaign is outstanding then that is done free, and be sure your Software on the engine is updated, 

if there is an update available it should have been done at the service after the Tech had plugged the car in at the service.

Regardless of what you say it's not normal for a twincharger to throw up a emission light on tickover mine sits for days even a full week at times and never throws a missfire light when ticking over after that, I've had problems when booting it and that was because I had OEM plugs and a tuning box on  , I would say you have an underlying problem with this engine , there's a reason it's messed a plug up and mine has had two major services and never burned oil after it , regarding the spark plug tips read your own advice loads of threads you've commented on where the engine has lost compression with a plug tip missing this is probably the main way these engines die other is burned exhaust vavles and I would say looking at this thread that is how this engine will fail or it will foul a plug again. It's needs new squirter jets ASAP look at the chap who has a cave from Lancashire with the green one same thing happened too his twincharger and his is back on track with new squirters 

1 hour ago, pwdvrs said:

Oil was £36.10 and photo here of invoice showing description. 

 

Will check spare tyre well for the sticker but couldn't find anything in history saying there had been a software update. 

 

The plug on the left is exactly what one of mine looked like. 

If I was you mate I'd get your squirter jets done look at skoda for some goodwill, upgrade to Denso plugs with a tip gap of 0.6MM, either get a new set of coilpacks fitted OEM or upgrade to Audi R8 coils like I've done I'll post a picture of my engine bay 

Here's the upgraded coils which give a bigger bang  

Nothing to do with sitting, read what was said, sitting being moved about, like when in a Body Repair Shop or Workshop or even a sales forecourt or auction.

 

If you say so Thomas on never being normal or common. One car you have i think to consider where as i have dealt with dozens now.

You had an Oil user, you got the Squirters and then a replacement engine did you not, all under warranty.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/341062-cave-oil-consumption-new-fix-update-two-days-ago-by-vag

By page 3 you are waiting on a replacement engine!

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/337104-cave-vs-cthe 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/339194-oil-consumption-test-part-1 

 

As to the tip off,  show me where i have ever said anything about compression, because i leave that to those that talk often about it.

I just warn with a tip off the engine usually dies. 

(Usually those that just keep adding bits, tuning and never understanding the basics first, like the oil, the fuel, and the looking after the Servicing because few Dealerships do.)

Many never lose the tip. Just the gap increases and the plug burns up. Well the one plug does, in hundreds of cases now.

 

The issue after a service is how the car is driven or not driven and if the rings / scrapers are gunged etc,

& also crap long life oil. 

 

I have seen plenty oil users that never needed a Breather Mod or Squirters, i have found them cheap bought them for others, got them running without oil use and am still look after them for others.

Edited 2 April, 20179 yr by Awayoffski