Yesterday when I check the horn, it dond work! I did check the horn connection, and it was ok. 

Then I try to push the middle of the steering wheel I get contact if i press at two sides simultaneous . So it most be bad contact in the steering wheel.

How can I fix on a safe mode?

 

It can help to use a mirror to look at the holes in the back of the steering wheel to locate the spring wire airbag clips.

 

Once the airbag is out, check and clean horn contacts.

Edited 2 May, 20179 yr by TMB

Thanks! I will try som day. Now i got an errorkode o2-sensor!  Something all the time... 

code: 17524 I will try to check wires first?

Yes, but check fuse 9 first if you haven't already.

 

Edited 2 May, 20179 yr by TMB

Thanks! I will try that. Hope the sensor is ok?

The budget of this car is overdrived! 

 

 

12 hours ago, Torbo said:

Hope the sensor is ok?

 

No guarantees there unfortunately.

F9 ok. Engine light is coming and going, when I clear the code. Light is coming on after 100 meter, 2 km or 20 km.

May be the lambda sensor is gone!

 

Can I use an universal one?

 

Original?

Alternativ? 

 

I'd avoid cheap universal ones as they can be very poor quality and often don't work. Try and get OEM or a good quality make like Bosch.

 

I'm sure you already know that 'Bank 1 Sensor 1' means the sensor closest to the engine if there are two sensors.

 

Edited 3 May, 20179 yr by TMB

There is four leads - two hvite and two black.

what is what? 

 

12 volt to glowing

 

0 - 9 volt to the ecu.

 

If I should messure?

 

 

Have a look here...

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/engine/1.2/40;_1.2/47_engine_fuel_injection/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/lambda_control/testing__lambda_probe_g39__and_lambda_control_upstream_of_catalytic_converter/

Thanks! Just what I need! I will give the sensor a last chance. They are expensive ...

Hope I can font the small numbers. 

open circuit sensor heating may be the only problem? And the signal 0-1 volt is may be ok?

I will try to put 12 volt directly to the heater and ground it with two leader.

last chanse...

If it work I can put a switsh on inside the car go take the current from some other safe plase.

 

 

 

9 hours ago, Torbo said:

open circuit sensor heating may be the only problem? And the signal 0-1 volt is may be ok?

 

Yes it could be the heater element.

A new probe cost a lot, and I will try to get one from another country. This take some time. So may be i will put resistance (12 Ohm) between the contact 1 and contact 2 ?- to the element, like a 21 w light bulb in the mean time? So the engine light not will came on? 

 

21 w I=P/U 21/12 =1,75 ampere

R=U/I= 12/1,75= 6,8 Ohm like the element... so no warning light?

 

I don't think the heater has some mission when the engine is warmed up, and the emission not  will be bad? Only the first minutes...

?? Is it possible that the heater element has a inside switch that turn off the coil inside?

Then the ECU can make trouble?

 

But I think the ECU will control the needs for warming? Then it should go? 

I will check the emission on a test center after this. If this is work?

 

Can I destroy something?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 5 May, 20179 yr by Torbo

The ECU controls the heating of the probe.

 

I can't answer the part about adding resistance to put out the warning light as I have never attempted it.

I think I will try as a temporary solution?

Until I get a new sensor...

1 hour ago, Torbo said:

I think I will try as a temporary solution?

Until I get a new sensor...

 

Might be risky. You don't want to damage the ECU. Be careful.

Yes, I think you are right. To risky on this sensitive car. 

I have to be patience and wait for new sensor.

 

I checked the thermostat on the air filter to day, and some wirings. The valve - worm/cold air valve was locked at "winter position". I took the wax unit out and warmed a little with a lighter , but no reaction! 

Then I locked it in "sommer" position with some wood parts. 

May be that will give better emission on test? More power and so on?

 

Yes, I think you are right. To risky on this sensitive car. 

I have to be patience and wait for new sensor.

 

I checked the thermostat on the air filter to day, and some wirings. The valve - worm/cold air valve was locked at "winter position". I took the wax unit out and warmed a little with a lighter , but no reaction! 

Then I locked it in "sommer" position with some wood parts. 

May be that will give better emission on test? More power and so on?

 

Result: More power from the engine! And a little "Weber-noise". 

 

May be better emission to?

Have not tested yet...

 

Might be OK for a temporary measure but you really need to get one that works - especially in your country.

10 minutes ago, TMB said:

Might be OK for a temporary measure but you really need to get one that works - especially in your country.

 

Yes thats right! 

Im looking for a new filter. If I can't find, I have to make manuel adjustment go take one from a Volvo or some standard from a water thermostat to fit in ?

 

Just now, Torbo said:

 

Yes thats right! 

Im looking for a new filter. If I can't find, I have to make manuel adjustment go take one from a Volvo or some standard from a water thermostat to fit in ?

 

 

Yes if you can find one to fit like Wino did.

On 8. mai 2017 at 21:27, TMB said:

 

Yes if you can find one to fit like Wino did.

 

I found two VW Polo filters with the same automatic adjustment to day! The thermostat was the same, but they was also bad! I four a third that was ok, may be, but I lose it inside the engine room. Unlucky!

 

So I will look more some other places and filter if I can find?

 

In the meantime I will make a manual adjustment.

 

That's a shame you lost it. Keep looking

Iwa inside a engine room, taking the plastic things away, and wips the little part was gone. unable to lift the car over and to move the polo under where I was. m not sure about the adjusting temperatures, but when there is 25 degrees outside, it should not stand on warm air position?

On the fine lost part the little pin stood longer out.

Like this: 

nearly - the thermostat regulator

I will do something else on the car. The engine ventilation on the camshaft house is pretty near the cam, and when the cam is rotating it can sprout some oil in the rubber house. I have tested if with a "catch oil can", and it seems that oil is coming out. So I have to drill a hole under go on the fill cap for oil, where there is a distance to the cam. The synthetic oil is so thin! That and at stroke (1 mm hole) in the house from the PCV-valve will do good i think?

Else no oil consuprion after 2500 km - after renewing the engine. And I am waiting for a new O2-sensor. Hope ....

 

 

I think the regulator shall be like this i n20 degrees outside temperature - like a Volvo part...

 

Edited 10 May, 20179 yr by Torbo

On 10. mai 2017 at 17:13, Torbo said:

Iwa inside a engine room, taking the plastic things away, and wips the little part was gone. unable to lift the car over and to move the polo under where I was. m not sure about the adjusting temperatures, but when there is 25 degrees outside, it should not stand on warm air position?

On the fine lost part the little pin stood longer out.

Like this: 

nearly - the thermostat regulator

I will do something else on the car. The engine ventilation on the camshaft house is pretty near the cam, and when the cam is rotating it can sprout some oil in the rubber house. I have tested if with a "catch oil can", and it seems that oil is coming out. So I have to drill a hole under go on the fill cap for oil, where there is a distance to the cam. The synthetic oil is so thin! That and at stroke (1 mm hole) in the house from the PCV-valve will do good i think?

Else no oil consuprion after 2500 km - after renewing the engine. And I am waiting for a new O2-sensor. Hope ....

 

 

I think the regulator shall be like this i n20 degrees outside temperature - like a Volvo part...

 

 

Blocking of the tube from the motor head to the filter work! After many miles today the oil catch can was dry in button! I took the ventilation from the oil cap in the first time. If it should look more nice I will drill a hole right under the oil fill cap? But now the spark plugs are white and dry them to. And the engine goes like a racing machine! To dry the catalytic I drive some kilometer with only two cylinder so the cat should burn it self clean with extra gasoline. Crasy, but i work. After some stop and start the engine light don't came on! May be the O2-sensor also get burn clean? Im note sure about this thing, but provisional it is working. The "oil case" is 100 anyway! Sensor is in the mailbox soon, so I will change anyway. I'm tired of the motor lamp! 

Edited 11 May, 20179 yr by Torbo