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help required, 2 faults

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4 years in, and got my first couple of fault codes, EML came on running in limp mode, however drives fine, starts fine not overheating etc..

 

P1530 Intake camshaft control circuit:short of ground 

P0012 Camshaft postion (bank 1) timing over retarded

 

How do i go about fixing the issues?

 

Thanks 

Sam 

 

 

wire ing or new sensor

Some info for you, http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16396/P0012/000018

 

These sorts of codes are normally the beginnings of issues with the oil pickup strainer (I'm assuming you have a 20v or a vrs?), as the cam sensor is driven from the oil pressure fed adjuster on the inlet cam.

Any drop in pressure will cause the adjuster to malfunction and the chain at the rear of the engine to lose tension. The 20v engine has a cambelt at the front of the engine and a camchain at the rear of the head for the variable timing function.

 

I would check the sensor function first, and if it is correct, then I would look to the strainer.

 

Hope it helps,

 

Phil.

  • Author
5 minutes ago, kentphil1 said:

Some info for you, http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16396/P0012/000018

 

These sorts of codes are normally the beginnings of issues with the oil pickup strainer (I'm assuming you have a 20v or a vrs?), as the cam sensor is driven from the oil pressure fed adjuster on the inlet cam.

Any drop in pressure will cause the adjuster to malfunction and the chain at the rear of the engine to lose tension. The 20v engine has a cambelt at the front of the engine and a camchain at the rear of the head for the variable timing function.

 

I would check the sensor function first, and if it is correct, then I would look to the strainer.

 

Hope it helps,

 

Phil.

I change the pipe every two years, and i thought that was a bit overkill. Ordered a new camshaft position sensor, see if that clears it up.

With a change period like that, I would have thought it unlikely to be pressure driven unless excess sealant is breaking off and blocking the strainer. Sounds like you keep up a good maintenance regime, all credit to you for that.

 

Hope the sensor sorts it for you.

  • Author

Over used phrase with cars, but this really is my pride and joy. It just don't come cheap £133 for the sensor so i'm really hoping it fixes the problem.

Edited by sam83

  • Author

Changed the sensor yesterday, car never came out of limp mode and now EML is back on. :sadsmile:

Did you clear the previous codes down before driving?. If you did, what codes have returned?.

  • Author
21 hours ago, kentphil1 said:

Did you clear the previous codes down before driving?. If you did, what codes have returned?.

 

Now I'm getting P0010 Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/ Open Bank 1 

Have you checked cam timing??

I suppose I should ask if all the fuses are intact?.

 

If you are getting good voltage at the wiring, and the connector pins are sound and not "backing out of the connector then you need to start looking under the cambox I'm afraid.

 

Is the engine rattly up the opposite end to the cambelt at all when cold, like the chain tensioner taking a while to adjust up with pressure?.

 

Just out of curiosity, what are you using to generate the codes?.

Edited by kentphil1

  • Author

Engine is not making any weird noises, was using my liquid display to check fault codes, until the switch broke yesterday now using a cheapo ebay one.

Up the coolant sensor end of the cambox, the tensioner sits in between the chain and the head and has a gasket underneath it. Are there any signs of an oil leak in that area at all?.

 

Bit of info here to explain what I mean - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/camshafts/removing_and_installing_camshafts_and_camshaft_adjuster/

 

Hope it helps

 

Phil.

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