Hi all, recently become a first time Skoda owner, now wanting to install a dashcam. I personally feel all 12v sockets should be key switched to prevent battery drain.

 

I had searched around on the forum, read a lot of information, and found people are using their dash-cam by fuse-tap either the rear wiper fuse 47 or the unused fuse 48. Personally I would not like to tap off the rear wiper because the circuit is designed for rear wiper, I don't want to (however small possibility) over-current the circuit. Fuse 48 seems perfect, it's not being used, it's a switched source.

 

This is exactly the same as the ability to change the 12v socket behaviour in SEAT and VW cars between always-on and switched by moving the fuse.  (assuming fuse 48 wiring is designed to deal with up to 20A)

 

TLD: fuse-tap from location 48 source to location 40 sink; disconnect location 40 source.

 

My plan:

1. Use this or similar kit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/INIBUD-Universal-Circuit-Holder-Adapter/dp/B01E3PQWUE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496303867&sr=8-2&keywords=fuse+tap

2. Cut off half red wire of 2 fuse-tap adapter and solder the wires together

3. (see picture 5 of the Amazon listing) Remove fuse 40 and insert into A-B location in one of the adapter, insert provided 20A fuse into the other adapter's A-B location. This creates a connection between the two adapter's positive connection. C-D location should be left blank!

4. (see picture 5 of the Amazon listing) Insert positive of one adapter into fuse 40 sink (the one that is connected to 12v sockets in the car)

5. (see picture 5 of the Amazon listing) Insert positive of the other adapter into fuse 48 source (the one that is switched, upper slot by the looks of below links)

 

Alternatively, find a fuse-tap adapter with a fuse inserting pin on its end (I'd like to know where to buy). Insert it as step 5 into location 48. Insert the dangling pin into source mentioned in step 4.

 

 

I plan to do the above and update this thread with photos if successful.

 

 

Before I dismantle the glove box and carry out this. Any reason why people shouldn't do this? Is it just because people prefer to hard-wire their dash-cams when they are already at the fuse-box?

 

 

 

 

Source, Fuse 48 use cases:

 

I think you are overcomplicating things. Why not just use fuse 48 on its own?

 

Also if my electrical knowledge is right, you are now doubling the current required to blow the fuses. 40A rather than 20A. That doesn't seem a good idea.

Also surely the circuitry for the rear wiper is after the fuse anyway. So that is still protected by the appropriate fuse and so can't be overloaded, by what you draw for the dashcam (which is tiny anyway)

 

I would just tap into one of the fuses normally, especially as nobody has reported any problems doing so.

 

 

23 minutes ago, WayTooTall said:

I think you are overcomplicating things. Why not just use fuse 48 on its own?

 

Also if my electrical knowledge is right, you are now doubling the current required to blow the fuses. 40A rather than 20A. That doesn't seem a good idea.

Also surely the circuitry for the rear wiper is after the fuse anyway. So that is still protected by the appropriate fuse and so can't be overloaded, by what you draw for the dashcam (which is tiny anyway)

 

I would just tap into one of the fuses normally, especially as nobody has reported any problems doing so.

 

 

 

The point of this thread is to change the 12v socket into switched mode. Due to Skoda being cheap, owners don't have the option to select by moving the fuse (like in SEAT and VW cars). It's less about fuse-tapping for dashcams, more about changing 12v socket to switched mode via off-the-shelf fuse-tap kit.

 

I agree, the walkthrough is slightly overcomoplicated, because I can't find an off-the-shelf fuse jumper. (noted in my alternative paragraph)

 

20A in parallel will do exactly what you have described. My method places the fuse in series, one or both of the fuse will blow when drawing over 20A.

 

It's not only about the fuse, there's also the wire gage. 20A is a very high current. We don't want to burn the wires when the rear wiper is activated and when the passenger is using all 120W specified by the manual. Assuming all wires are made to 20A, using the unused fuse 48 connection will ensure nothing exceeds its recommended current rating.

 

 

OK, I see what you are doing. 

 

I would be careful about how you remove the unused pins from the fuse adapters. I would really want to make sure that they can't make contact with anything in the fuse box. 

 

 

 

 

 

I've done the fuse box wiring, very straight forward.

 

The circuit diagram hopefully explains it better. Fuse location 48 is a switched power source, it doesn't have any sink. My solution is basically directly connect 48 source to sink of location 40.

 

 

Here it is installed into the car.

White line shows the flow of Fuse 48 switched power into 12v sockets pin.

Yellow line is the permanently live 12v if I ever want to use for parking dashcam.

 

 

 

Tested, all works. Both 12v sockets only has power when ignition is switched on. Exactly how a car socket should behave in my book.

 

Thanks. I'm going to do this.

Need some help please. 

 

Any idea which of these I should order?

 

http://www.amazon.in/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=car+blade+fuse+holder&tag=googinhydr1-21&index=aps&hvadid=183167194756&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=400828109625883005&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9062031&hvtargid=kwd-259512446307&ref=pd_sl_83bew6pyyz_b

3 hours ago, deepakvrao said:

Need some help please. 

 

Any idea which of these I should order?

 

http://www.amazon.in/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=car+blade+fuse+holder&tag=googinhydr1-21&index=aps&hvadid=183167194756&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=400828109625883005&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9062031&hvtargid=kwd-259512446307&ref=pd_sl_83bew6pyyz_b

 

You'll want standard sized fuse tap something like this:

http://www.amazon.in/VORCOOL-Standard-Blade-Fuse-Holder/dp/B071RKJZ2M/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1498329307&sr=8-32&keywords=car+blade+fuse+holder

 

I bought one size smaller than ideal, so you can see from the photos the connect doesn't sit straight, because there's wiggle room. Luckily the fuse connection is very strong and held the fuse tap in no problem.

12 hours ago, wyx087 said:

 

You'll want standard sized fuse tap something like this:

http://www.amazon.in/VORCOOL-Standard-Blade-Fuse-Holder/dp/B071RKJZ2M/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1498329307&sr=8-32&keywords=car+blade+fuse+holder

 

I bought one size smaller than ideal, so you can see from the photos the connect doesn't sit straight, because there's wiggle room. Luckily the fuse connection is very strong and held the fuse tap in no problem.

 

Heck, that's 50 dollars [because it's imported from the US]. Need to find something cheaper. Others on the page are like 4-5 dollars.

Edited 25 June, 20178 yr by deepakvrao

5 hours ago, deepakvrao said:

 

Heck, that's 50 dollars [because it's imported from the US]. Need to find something cheaper. Others on the page are like 4-5 dollars.

This one? http://www.amazon.in/Generic-Circuit-Adapter-Standard-Holder/dp/B01AG94TNS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498395812&sr=8-3&keywords=standard+car+blade+fuse+holder

 

Standard size, any fuse tap will do.

2 hours ago, wyx087 said:

This one? http://www.amazon.in/Generic-Circuit-Adapter-Standard-Holder/dp/B01AG94TNS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498395812&sr=8-3&keywords=standard+car+blade+fuse+holder

 

Standard size, any fuse tap will do.

 

 

I just ordered this. Hope it will do.

 

 

Edit: Your first post shows a link to a mini blade fuse type, while now the last link is to a standard size. Which is it?

 

Thanks for the help :-)

 

http://www.amazon.in/Magideal-Circuit-Blade-Holder-Piggy/dp/B01M7Q1SIB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Edited 25 June, 20178 yr by deepakvrao

I ordered the mini fuse tap and upon install, found it to be one size smaller than what's required. It installed okay but you can see from the picture it is not straight. It is being held on by the electrical connections. A standard sized fuse will sit better in the fuse holder.

 

 

On 6/11/2017 at 15:38, wyx087 said:

I've done the fuse box wiring, very straight forward.

 

The circuit diagram hopefully explains it better. Fuse location 48 is a switched power source, it doesn't have any sink. My solution is basically directly connect 48 source to sink of location 40.

 

 

Here it is installed into the car.

White line shows the flow of Fuse 48 switched power into 12v sockets pin.

Yellow line is the permanently live 12v if I ever want to use for parking dashcam.

 

 

 

Tested, all works. Both 12v sockets only has power when ignition is switched on. Exactly how a car socket should behave in my book.

 

 

 

Ive got the parts to do this but excuse my ignorance i still cant quite work out how you have done it? have you inserted one piggyback holder into the top of another PB holder at fuse 48 and inserted that into the sink?  are you only using the top fuse holder in each piggyback and leaving one slot empty?

7 hours ago, JohnnyType2 said:

Ive got the parts to do this but excuse my ignorance i still cant quite work out how you have done it? have you inserted one piggyback holder into the top of another PB holder at fuse 48 and inserted that into the sink?  are you only using the top fuse holder in each piggyback and leaving one slot empty?

 

You need to insert the PB holder normally into the car. If you don't fit bottom fuse, it will not make the connection.

 

At fuse 40, the PB holder need to be in reverse, so that the end usually go into 12v source goes into sink. This way you are delivering fuse 48's current into fuse 40.

 

Hope that makes it slightly less muddy. I need to work on my explanation...... let me know which part you still need clarification.

On studying again I see how you have the switched 20A fuse 48 sink feeding the sink in fuse 40A for the 12V lighters,

 

How is the leftmost PB at fuse 48 set up? is it connected to the lower PB fuse slot of the rightmost PB in reverse? then the rightmost PB in turn connected to the fuse 40 sink with a 20A fuse in its upper slot?

 

and you have just spliced the two red wires together where the black electrical tape is? does the lowermost fuse slot of the PB connected at fuse 48 have to have a fuse in it? or is just the upper slot used?

 

One other question is the gauge of the wire supplying the switched source 48 enough to handle current draw (20A rated by the fuse in the upper slot im guessing) of the 12V lighter power? just to clarify as i think you may have already answered this. and i wasnt sure if i connected a device to the boot 12V source.

 

ive had a good look at the way the PBs work so excuse me as i get my head around it, i dont want to burn anything out  thanks for the replies and help

Edited 12 December, 20178 yr by JohnnyType2

19 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

How is the leftmost PB at fuse 48 set up? is it connected to the lower PB fuse slot of the rightmost PB in reverse? then the rightmost PB in turn connected to the fuse 40 sink with a 20A fuse in its upper slot?

Only the upper fuse slot is occupied. Inserting a few into lower fuse block connects the original fuse location, which we don't want to do on fuse loc 48.

 

rightmost PB is indeed connected to fuse loc 40's sink with a 20A fuse in the upper slot.

 

21 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

and you have just spliced the two red wires together where the black electrical tape is?

That is correct. When I did it, I haven't got any experience with piggyback fuses. So I cut off the ends and soldered the wires together, then use electrical tape to wrap it. In hindsight, you only need to cut 1 end, and use the crimp on the other end to connect them together.

 

If you are not sure, don't insert anything to lower fuse slot of the PB fuses. Also never insert more than 20A. It should all be safe to play around.

fuse 40 and 48 PB setups connected and ready to plug in