Brake still binding after replacing rotor, pads and calipers.

[asteconn]

Hello all,

 

My 2003 Mk1 ASV (110 Diesel) failed its MOT last week on a binding rear brake. I've just spent today fitting a new rotor, new calliper and new pads to that wheel (other side will happen shortly). After bleeding, the brakes seem to still be binding.

 

When removing the old rather mangled pads, one of them had a lot of difficulty coming out; and when I put the new pad in in the same place, it needed tapping in with the tire iron. This suggests to me that the calliper carrier is bent out of shape or otherwise grabbing onto the brake-pad and not letting it retract with the calliper. Is this likely to be the cause of the binding happening with the new components, as this is the only part of that assembly that I didn't renew? Or are there other troubleshooting steps I should take?

 

This is the first time I've attempted any brake work, so I may be making newbie errors. Thanks in advance for any advice.

[wiilydog]

are the caliper pins ok? eg not bent and properly lubricated?

[asteconn]

No idea, how do I check?

[Breezy_Pete]

Corrosion on caliper carrier needed to be wire-brushed or filed off before fitting new pads.. Pads should slide easily, not need force to fit.

[wiilydog]

22 hours ago, asteconn said:

No idea, how do I check?

Just pull the slider pin boots off to check they are well greased, they should move freely in and out.

[asteconn]

3 hours ago, wiilydog said:

Just pull the slider pin boots off to check they are well greased, they should move freely in and out.

 

Ah, yes they seem to be fine.

20 hours ago, Wino said:

Corrosion on caliper carrier needed to be wire-brushed or filed off before fitting new pads.. Pads should slide easily, not need force to fit.

I'll assault the guide with a suitable tool - just need to obtain one now!

[kentphil1]

I might be mis reading your original post, but did you just fit new pads to the new caliper side only?, or did you do both sides?.

[HeavyMetalRich]

On 6/26/2017 at 02:35, asteconn said:

I'll assault the guide with a suitable tool - just need to obtain one now!

 

Yeah you shouldn't encounter any resistance putting the new pads in at all. Give the surfaces the pads touch a good filing until you can see nice shiny metal. Clean off any loose rust with a wire brush and run the point of a screwdriver along the corners to make sure there is no rust left. 

 

A coat of a "suitable to use with brakes" grease on the newly shiny bits will help them stay clear of rust for a bit longer and will help your pads release more easily. A ceramic grease is now considered the best to use now but many swear by copper grease.

 

Hope this helps.

[Chrisrpal]

I am a ex VW mechanic. I can confirm it will be your carrier pins at fault, They have to be serviced regularly. Also the rubber boots have to be checked for pin holes. Water gets into these and rusts them solid which causes brake failure. Same for the axle pressure valve on the older cars like mk2 golf. It will be recommended to remove all carrier pins, front and back. Clean them and grease them up before putting back.