wiilydog

Yes, the bottom one is the drain

yes that is the brake pad warning light, the warning can be turned off permanently by someone with vcds cable + software

agree with bigjohn and reject the car as the 1.8tsi are known to have piston ring issues causing high oil consuption you are lucky you have bought it from a dealer and not priviately as you will be protected by consumer rights

the 1.4tsi also a good option if you don't do the mileage and don't want a diesel as no dmf or dpf to worry about also does decent mpg around 40mpg around town and 50 mpg on a motorway run

Worth checking out front and rear anti roll bar drop links as these are cheap to replace.

Glad your not hurt is the important thing as cars can be replaced. Good luck with finding your replacement.

I've heard that comment too on some YouTube engine rebuilt videos and 0w20 is like water may be good for mpg / emissions but may be not so good for engine longevity as 5w30 vw spec will offer better protection.

Gearbox oil worth doing

try https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ and download the App on to your phone as they do special promotions on certain days

Worth looking into some bilstein b6 shocks too

The technology is already out there to retrofit LED bulbs that don't dazzle on coming traffic as Philips also produce a Street legal LED bulb for the the EU market https://www.philips.com/c-e/au/road-legal-led-headlights/ultinon-pro6000-led.html

Nothing wrong with the mileage especially if has been well maintained and mainly motorway miles. My 1.4tsi has done 160k and had no major work apart from regular oil service. Just check that the Cambelt has been done by a specialist as the 1.5tsi has ACT and needs proper timing equipment. Also just be aware that Cambelt changes on the 1.5tsi can cost around £750 to £1k whereas the 1.4tsi with no ACT is around £350, so something you wish to consider before going for a 1.5tsi

Has the rear level sensor been checked too as there is one on the nearside rear but best to get a scan with someone with vcds as that will pin point the exact fault if it is electrical. Can't really see much to go wrong other than the front and rear sensors as they are exposed to the elements.

It would be even better on b6/ b8 shocks

No light or fault codes, just felt gutless below 2k, new MAF sorted the issue, hence try unplugging it to see if it drives better.

Does your car have a maf sensor? As worth try unplugging it if it has one, to see if it makes a difference as out of spec MAF may make it a bit gutless at low revs as the fuel and air mix will be wrong as had a similar issue with Oct MK2 tdi

Yes it is a non ACT 1.4tsi, I got mine done at 150k as didn't want to risk of pushing it any further despite no specific intervals from VW

I got my 1.4tsi belt changed at indy for £320 back in May so guess the 1.0tsi will be similar. Anything with ACT will be expensive due to the complex nature of the variable valve timing.

Give it another few more weeks there should plenty of good non ULEZ cars up for grabs from London. Go for something with good service history preferable with annual oil changes rather than variable servicing. I ran my 2.0pd 140 to 215k before I sold it and it was still going strong. Can't beat the old PD engines as long as you avoid PD Vrs as that came with DPF.

Would try some turbo cleaner first such as archoil as you may find it is just cloggged up turbo vanes. You just add it to a full tank of fuel and give it some beans once the engine is fully warmer up.

Here is proper guide for Golf Mk7 but should same for Oct MK3 as they share a similar platform https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-retro-fit-skid-trays-aerodynamic-under-trays-stone-guards-to-a-mk7-golf.320687/

Also consider sourcing a used full length plastic under tray as I'm sure some models come with full length trays

Get your rear alignment checked as probably worn rear toe bushes

sounds like the service indicator hasn't been reset properly last time round and fine to wait to next January for it's next service given your low annual mileage.

true, but there is rubber inside so they can deteriorate over time but difficult spot just by sight alone I had a bad ns rear top mount that went bad and that did made a knocking noise but os one was still fine at 200k Try identifying which corner the knocking noise is coming from and worth changing it, to see if it eliminates the noise as the mounts are only £15 each, and should take no longer than half a hour to change. also worth checking that the coil springs are not broken at the bottom of the control arm, as sometimes a tiny bit can break away from the base of the coil spring