Anyone have any instructions on how to remove the fuel filler flap on a Mk2 Combi?

Need to replace the spring clip, so I guess flap and under tray need to come out?

Any ideas welcome!

Not sure what the spring is that you refer to.

 

But on my 2009 twindoor, what I think you are trying to get off is removed via the single Torx tx20 screw, and pulling the plastic/rubber surround outwards from the l/h side (with the fuel cap off).

 

The assembly slides over the fuel neck and comes off with the painted fuel flap door and hinge and drain pipe complete, twisting through a quarter turn (anti-clockwise from above) to allow the door hinge to clear the body as you withdraw it.  It comes off surprisingly easily once the rubbery bit is off the filler neck. Holding the flap door at the same time might stop you dropping (and scratching) it, when it comes out there is no resistance and the ease and lack of weight may catch you out.

 

Also, may be worth putting a rag in the fuel filler neck to stop anything falling in it.

 

So, you are removing fuel flap door and hinge, and black plastic/rubber trim that fills space around filler neck, as one piece.

 

HTH

Edited 5 August, 20178 yr by CombatWombat

On ‎06‎/‎08‎/‎2017 at 22:58, wokwon said:

Firstly apologies for reviving an old thread.  Wokwon posted some very useful information regarding fuel filler flap removal which has helped me gain access and diagnose that the intermittent failure to unlock on my car (FL estate/combi) is due to the locking mechanism being faulty and hence needs replacement before it finally catches me out and I'm stranded somewhere out of diesel as haven't been able to open the flap to refuel.  This means I need access to the electrical connector which isn't accessible from the fuel filler side (what a crap design!).  The illustrated instructions (which look to come from a workshop manual) reference the need to "slacken the side trim panel in the luggage compartment" and points to a chapter.  I don't suppose anyone could furnish me with the information contained in this chapter?  Any advice on the minimum amount of trim to remove and how to remove would be very much appreciated, cheers.

The locking mechanism is prone to sticking. Drop some light machine oil along the locking pin where it goes into the lock and work it in and out a few times to free it up.

1 hour ago, chimaera said:

The locking mechanism is prone to sticking. Drop some light machine oil along the locking pin where it goes into the lock and work it in and out a few times to free it up.

Thanks for that, had tried that before disassembling the flap but have now found that on the occasions that it sticks the internal mechanism isn't actually actuating and is essentially staying locked.  Using the manual release at rear of lock mechanism (another fine example of stupid design, there isn't any way to reach this in situ on a Superb, can only press the rubber cover on manual release when flap has been removed which means you have got it open anyway!) always opens the flap showing the plunger is free moving.  So far have always managed to get the flap open eventually but getting paranoid that it will stick for good at worst possible moment.  Hence want to fix once and for all with new locking mechanism.

On 01/09/2019 at 21:40, DrCorbyLee said:

Thanks for that, had tried that before disassembling the flap but have now found that on the occasions that it sticks the internal mechanism isn't actually actuating and is essentially staying locked.  Using the manual release at rear of lock mechanism (another fine example of stupid design, there isn't any way to reach this in situ on a Superb, can only press the rubber cover on manual release when flap has been removed which means you have got it open anyway!) always opens the flap showing the plunger is free moving.  So far have always managed to get the flap open eventually but getting paranoid that it will stick for good at worst possible moment.  Hence want to fix once and for all with new locking mechanism.

Hey, sorry for resurrecting the old thread again. Have you ever got this done? How much of a hassle was taking this trim off (agree, what a dumb design)? I was hoping maybe there is another way like taking the rear light off or something. Dreading taking that trim off just to plug a small connector. Thanks!

1 hour ago, DawidDre said:

Hey, sorry for resurrecting the old thread again. Have you ever got this done? How much of a hassle was taking this trim off (agree, what a dumb design)? I was hoping maybe there is another way like taking the rear light off or something. Dreading taking that trim off just to plug a small connector. Thanks!

It's impossible to get to the flap from inside the car. There's an outer and inner wing structure, and the filler tube and flap sit between them, with no access from inside the vehicle.

 

The mechanism inside the lock has a tendency to bind, especially if there's no lubrication in there. The solution to the problem is to press the flap in gently while you unlock with the remote. With some trial and error, you should be able to find the right amount of pressure to relieve the mechanism and let it pop open. Once it's open, get some light machine oil onto the lock plunger and work it in and out a bit until it moves smoothly with no resistance.

My request for information about internal trim removal wasn't to gain access to the fuel flap assembly as that is extremely easy to access to and disconnect from the body with a single screw to be undone (once the flap is open of course!), it was to gain access to the electrical connection which is inside the body behind the load area side trim.  The cable from the locking mechanism itself disappears from behind the fuel flap assembly through a grommet into the load area and hence you can't in theory replace the fuel flap assembly unless you can get behind this trim to disconnect plug from the socket on main loom.  I have seen reference to others cutting the lead from the the locking mechanism inside the wheel well and making a wire to wire direct connection onto the new fuel flap assembly (e.g. solder cut ends of wires and seal with glue filled heatshrink tubing) to allow the fuel flap assembly to be replaced without access behind load area trim.

 

WRT my own issue, there was something more fundamentally wrong with my fuel flap than a simple lack of lubricant.  Whenever the flap was stuck and eventually forced open with multiple actuation cycles / pressing and pushing the flap (essentially as chimaera suggests) the actual lock plunger was found to be free moving (although I always added additional lubrication).  Eventually the lock plunger operating mechanism failed completely, I can no longer hear the solenoid clicking when the car is unlocked.  So suspect the solenoid was on its way out and operating intermittently and eventually gave up the ghost.  Fortunately it failed open.  Means I no longer have a locking fuel flap.  But the way I look at it is if someone really wants to nick a tank of diesel or pour something in to contaminate it, a fragile plastic 1/4 turn plunger lock isn't going to stop them prising the flap open so haven't worried about fixing it since it failed back at the tail end of Lockdown No 1 last year.  If you were really worried you should be able to find a lockable replacement for the actual fuel cap (like the good old days pre everything being electronic).

 

 

Thanks a lot. Yes, assembly access is very easy indeed - that wasn't an issue. I was thinking about cutting the wire, solder and just shrink wrap it as you say, but I hate to do the job this way if it could be accessed properly without much effort.

But if it involves taking half of the car apart just to get to this stupid connector then I might just do it the easy way. Couldn't believe that connector isn't on the assembly part. Mine is open too, so I am just driving around with open flap door, which isn't too much of an issue.

 

@chimaera Unfortunately lubricating didn't help in my case. The small motor inside the assembly is dead completely. I have a new assembly and was contemplating whether I should cut the wires and solder them, or go through the effort of finding a connector.

Surely it has to be accessible from inside of the car. At the end of the day you'd see the wheel arch once you take the side trim off, right? Looking on YT on VW and Octavia's the loom is accessible from the inside once trim removed. Just wasn't sure how much hassle it is to take off.

The connection for the fuel filler flap solenoid is inside the boot side panel. Taking that panel off is a bit of a pain. Broadly speaking it's the following:

• Remove D-pillar trim
• Remove seat side bolster (a certain amount of witchcraft involved to find the right way to unclip it - I'm sure there are videos on Youtube)
• Take the hooks out of the plastic trim above the side panel and remove the screws
• Unclip that plastic trim
• Pop off the tailgate sill trim
• Pop off the tailgate side trim
• Remove the screws holding the side panel in place and lift it out

 

That's very useful info. Thanks a lot.

@DawidDre is yours the wagon or the liftback?  I can have a look in my copy of Elsa for the trim instructions.

Thanks dude. I ended up just curring it and soldering together which worked just fine.

 

Didn't bother me too much as I sadly had to sell the car anyway due to ULEZ extension in London.

 

Got a BMW 5 Series now and regret it a bit. It's tiny in comparison. Superb broke me, now all cars seem uncomfortably small 🤣