DrCorbyLee

Unfortunately as with most problems with modern cars, think the first action here is to get a full scan of all controllers with VCDS or similar to identify any faults associated with the door. That will hopefully then allow you to zero in on suspect component(s) to investigate

Personally I'd fix the know fault ('stat) and then see what results is. Can't make it worse! Then full scan with VCDS or similar to see if any faults showing. And check obvious things like tyre pressures and air filter (recall air filter is every third service which as I'm on variable interval would be every 54k or so, way too long, i'm old enough to remember when air filters were down every few K and paper filter technology hasn't changed that much in the 40 plus Years I've been driving. I change air filter every service (so about every 12 months) as a decent OEM filter e.g. Mann is just over a tenner from Halfords. Ditto fuel filter done every service, small cost but helps keep high mileage motor (175K) ticking over and hopefully helps avoid the big bills) You also haven't said what sort of journeys the 35mpg was from and what engine you have. Genuine 35mpg (so likely closer to 40mpg indicated) might not be bad for short journeys in town (especially if yours is petrol) I struggle to get above 40mpg indicated on that sort of use.

My own experience is that when my DSG 'stat failed, there was a hit in fuel consumption which you can understand as everything on a modern diesel is optimised to run at correct temperature. But it was maybe 10% down from recollection. I have a 170 4x4 that I use like a van, always absolutely full of my work tools etc (maybe 250kg) with just the driver's seat empty (until the 120kg dead weight sits in it :-) and routinely get indicated 50+ mpg on a long motorway cruise. But when 'stat was playing up, was more like an indicated 45 mpg on same journey. But your figures suggest more like a true 35 mpg. So sorting the 'stat has to help but wouldn't suprise me if you don't have another issue affecting fuel consumption, sorry.

From recollection takes around an hour but symptoms does suggest might be struggling to read a copy disc :-(

Yep, vintage 2013 V10 map so updating to V17 will get you half way to current roads! Still worth doing. Bear in mind that can be problems installing maps from non-genuine DVD. The disc you are looking at buying will be a copy burnt onto a dual layer recordable disc, consensus seems to be dirty / old laser lens struggles to read the second layer of these discs. Had previously done 3 or 4 upgrades without problem, but my last upgrade initially failed (leaving me with no map on hard drive :-( Had to use a cd lens cleaner before it would successfully read whole disc and install on hard drive

A 5 second hold of setup button gets you into "Radio service mode" menu and in there is a versions information button: At the bottom of the versions info screen is the map version

Assuming the interior lights work correctly in the on position (one click forward from auto) , the issue is almost certainly down to the off/auto/on switch for interior lights in ceiling just above rear view mirror. The contacts in middle auto position wear / burn out. Unfortunately you have to replace the complete module including switches, map reading lights and alarm interior movement sensors. When I looked, was around £200. Have a 2nd hand one from eBay sat waiting to be fitted once I suss out how to remove the old one.

There is a hidden menu with all the version information. From recollection, you need to press and hold the SETUP button (lowest of 4 buttons on right) until the hidden menu appears. Will double check when go out to car in morning. To decode the map version try https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Navigation_System_Maps Superb 2 Columbus is an RNS510 in disguise and so uses CY maps. The last end of life map release was V17 which for west europe maps shows as version 8557 in the columbus hidden menu. Think this was first available at end of 2019, certainly upgraded my maps for the last time with this version just before COVID kicked off

What makes you think the Bluetooth module has failed? In my similar vintage car (63 plate facelift 170 4x4 elegance spec), it occasionally throws a wobbly and stops working until rebooted by pulling plug on it.

Is the car still on original windscreen? Not experienced myself but have seen reference to poorly fitted replacement screens allowing water ingress

The dealer showroom description was "sw@nky", the Briskoda smut filter obviously ignores the first and last characters of the word although some main dealers are also w*nk !!!

Just checked my records and my car had it's fourth transmission service May last year at smidge under 160K miles, bill was just short of £460 + VAT but that was for the DSG oil + Filter change plus haldex diff oil (and filter that dealers don't admit exists let alone change) change as mine's a 4x4. So £413 + VAT does sound a lot for just the DSG service. That said, genuine VAG DSG oil is expensive at almost 26 quid a litre and needs 5 litres plus another 40 quid for the filter, o ring and sump plug. Suspect your price is from a main dealer, crazy labour rate will be what kills this. Some dealers offer a fixed price service, quick Google identifed a Scottish dealer doing the DSG service for £369 Inc VAT. But best bet is to find yourself a decent VAG indy and get then to do it using genuine VAG parts and labour rates that don't fund a s****y showroom. Might be physiological but after each DSG service, gear changes always seem smoother. Could be some physical effect because as well as the oil and filter change, has a clutch adaptation / calibration which takes effect of clutch pack wear and optimises performance. So definitely worth doing from a driveability point of view as well as protecting the gearbox

About 30 quid delivered for after market copy part or 65 quid delivered for genuine Skoda part for CFFB diesel: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03l103634m-dipstick-tube-european-union-52684.html Still stupidly expensive for a bit of plastic but suspect significantly cheaper than buying from UK Skoda dealer

Can't directly help with the part numbers but can recommend trying www.skoda-parts.com for these sort of small components. They are a Czech mail order company. Pricing is always significantly lower than UK Skoda main dealers even taking into account delivery charges. Last time I used them, parts arrived next working day using standard less than a tenner delivery! Very good value as long as you stick below the 130 odd quid limit to avoid custom charges, below that the price you see on the website is the total you pay. They also offer option for cheap Chinese, quality EU OEM and genuine VAG for many parts to suit your budget. Plus they have native English speaking UK based agent who is really helpful and knowledgeable and will I'm sure be able to confirm correct part numbers for your car if you confirm VIN (or you can search for car specific parts from website): Patrick Rice sales representative e [email protected] t +44 20 8089 8075

Very good chance that counter intuitively, the issue is actually in the driver's door loom. That's the one that takes most wear and tear as door is opened and closed most often and that door I believe contains a controller that is linked to other three doors. Hence damaged wire in that door loom can cause issues in any of the other 3 doors. A system scan would help pinpoint the issue, or at least confirm that not a issue with controller itself. Needs a VAG specific solution to be able to interrogate all the car's controllers e.g. Obdeleven or VCDS. There are Briskoda members with VCDS who can help, worst case in exchange for a beer token or two. There may be one local to you -