radiator fan

[MiNoRcOnFuSiOn]

ok, so i got lots of help last time so will try again.

 

im sure this has been covered a few times so i appologise for being lazy with my search, im sorta scratching my head with this now.

ive changed the thermostat, temp sender AND radiator fan switch already as the guage wasnt working. now, the fan HAS worked befor now (summer in traffic) altho the gauge worked back then. so, is there a module/controller somewhere im missing?> i thought the 3 wire fan switch would be all this needs, but becausevaginit. so the engines deffo getting hot as i can smell it and i did a fair bit of sitting in traffic for a few hours yesterday but i ddint trust it to go much past the half way on the dash as it crept up, i would turn the engine off/have the blower going FULL BLAST. no matter what time of year it is, thats a bad thing to have to endure for 11 hours driving. so to save me cooking the head gasget trying to see if the fans would come on, whats happened. as it worked a few weeks ago befor my gauge went up the wall and i discovered the usual f&^%$d thermostat

 

so, if anyone could shed some light/maybe a skoda diagram for it as the haynes is CRAP for my model basicly. its a 2000 1.4mpi 8v aqw engine

 

thanks all

Edited 20 October, 2017 by MiNoRcOnFuSiOn

[Breezy_Pete]

Check the two* relevant fuses first.

The radiator fan at low speed on your car should be fuse 8 (30 Amp) in the battery fusebox; that's in a little covered group of blade fuses to the right of the strip fuses.  The high speed on the fan should be the 40A strip fuse in position 5.

If both of those are OK, there's a test you can do by shorting out pins of the radiator thermoswitch connector, but look at the fuses first.

 

*Edit: there might only be one actually, fuse 8, on a non-A/C car. If so I guess strip fuse position 5 will be empty?

 

Edited 20 October, 2017 by Wino

[MiNoRcOnFuSiOn]

14 minutes ago, Wino said:

Check the two* relevant fuses first.

The radiator fan at low speed on your car should be fuse 8 (30 Amp) in the battery fusebox; that's in a little covered group of blade fuses to the right of the strip fuses.  The high speed on the fan should be the 40A strip fuse in position 5.

If both of those are OK, there's a test you can do by shorting out pins of the radiator thermoswitch connector, but look at the fuses first.

 

*Edit: there might only be one actually, fuse 8, on a non-A/C car. If so I guess strip fuse position 5 will be empty?

 

yup, only fuse 8 fitted as non ac car. fuse is fine, suppose id better try bridging the plug on the fan control switch. do you know off the top of your head the colours to bridge to simulate the control switch in both possitions? dont have a good diagram to hand and havve no idea what does what/what if anything i could blow/burn. cheers for the reply

[Breezy_Pete]

Link the Pin 1 (thick red wire) on the loom connector  to pin 2 which is a thinner red/white for low speed.

Link pin 1 to pin 3 (thick red/white) for high speed function.

 

Use  a thickish piece of wire for linking and expect sparks because the start-up current of the fan is quite high if it does work. You can't damage anything, unless you have a hand in the way of the fan when/if it starts up.

Edited 20 October, 2017 by Wino

[MiNoRcOnFuSiOn]

6 minutes ago, Wino said:

Link the Pin 1 (thick red wire) on the loom connector  to pin 2 which is a thinner red/white for low speed.

Link pin 1 to pin 3 (thick red/white) for high speed function.

 

Use  a thickish piece of wire for linking and expect sparks because the start-up current of the fan is quite high if it does work. You can't damage anything, unless you have a hand in the way of the fan when/if it starts up.

didnt know if it was this way round (kinda assumed) or if it had 2 powers and a single to the fan. its too dark to do anything past look at fuses as its parked on a dark road outside my house. ill have a scratch about in the morning and see what happens. if no spin im assuming fan, would there be anything else in this circuit or is the power in a constant ignition live?

[Breezy_Pete]

Power is straight from battery via the 30A fuse.

Don't be surprised if low speed doesn't work but high speed does, there's a common failure where the internal resistor inside the fan casing that does the low speed breaks/burns out. There's a cheap/easyish fix for this involving an external resistor. On a 2000 car though, there's a fair chance that the fan brushes have just worn out, I imagine, depending on mileage/types of driving.

 

[MiNoRcOnFuSiOn]

6 minutes ago, Wino said:

Power is straight from battery via the 30A fuse.

Don't be surprised if low speed doesn't work but high speed does, there's a common failure where the internal resistor inside the fan casing that does the low speed breaks/burns out. There's a cheap/easyish fix for this involving an external resistor. On a 2000 car though, there's a fair chance that the fan brushes have just worn out, I imagine, depending on mileage/types of driving.

 

will bridge it in the morning and see what happens, im assuming the fan is at fault at this point. no stranger to a soldering iron so a resistor swap would deffo save me the cost of a new fan.

cheers again for all the help

[MiNoRcOnFuSiOn]

ok, plot thickens. the fan spins when bridged in ether speed setting. what the hell is going on here? could the NEW fan control switch also be at fault, or am i just not being brave enough letting it get up to temp?!?!? i lift the bonnet and its hot to the point i would expect to see a fan spin, the blowers are boiling hot (im assuming these get heat befor the radiator) i can smell the oil heating up/usual hot engine smell. and still no fan! so, am i just being over cautious? really dont fancy a head skim/gasget