Hi - I have 2006 octavia estate. Out of the blue a few weeks back, I noticed that the blower fan had stopped working. I read several forum topics and decided to get the fan unit out. After removing, cleaning and refitting, it worked for another two days, then nothing. Again, after some research, I ordered some new brushes for the motor and replaced them, having first soaked the motor assembly in white spirit and left to dry in the sunshine. Apart from some residual fumes, it ran ok for two days then nothing. This time, I took it out and had a look at the speed controller - I opened the clip case to reveal the circuit board. Looking for dry joints or blown capacitors, couldn't see anything obvious. I did notice there is a miniature relay on board so its not all solid state...

Put all back together but this time, before I put it back I tested the motor unit itself using a 18650 Lithium Ion battery I had from a monster torch and confirmed that the motor spins no problem with the new brushes and lube I had previously fixed.

So the problem must still be with either the regulator pack or the control signals coming from the dash panel??

 

This time, before fixing it back in place, with the help of my son, I held the unit, plugged in  ( caution as it can jump out of your hands with torque ), while he turned on the ignition and 'played with the fan controls. Initially, the fan sat just spinning at its lowest level, no matter how we set the fan speed on the centre console. After pressing the auto button and then changing the fan speed manually several times, I heard a little click and the fan seemed to respond properly to the manual speed requirements.

 

As I don't know what the centre console commander unit actually does ( does it generate the required control signals that get routed to the speed controller?? ) I think I may first try a replacement speed controller unit and see if that does fix the issue. I am thinking that I could try replacing the mini relay on the board, but sourcing the correct model ( probably Farnells ) and soldering to that scale now my eyes are not as young as when I was an electronic engineer, seems like a lot of work - although I like to fix things.

 

Has anyone a handle on how the speed control signal work please?? I am going to try read codes later today to see if there is anything to be gained from that.

 

Any help greatly appreciated - I have been driving it with no fan working for the last two weeks on and off and I have got away with damp mornings somehow so far, but i fear my time with that is running short.

 

I can’t really offer any help or advice but I am having similar issues. The blower would work occasionally but recently it just doesn’t come on at all. Took the unit out and cleaned it and that didn’t help, got a new unit fitted but still nothing. Wiring looks ok to me and fuses are all good so I am stuck with what to try next. 

I have seem on various forums about reading climatronic fault codes but I can’t get that to work on mine. I can do the self check of the flaps and get into the menu thing but not the fault codes bit. 

Right, so coming from an electronic engineering background, after testing the fan ,holding it while my son changed the console settings, I noticed a little click, then it seemed to work -  so back on the bench.

 

Opening up the speed controller unit I spotted a sub-minature relay. After checking for dry solder joints I looked it up in Farnells electronics catalog and ordered a new relay along with the two electrolytic capacitors, as these can be problematic especially when higher currents are involved. I also found a company online willing to repair these units, so I guess it must be something simple like a relay worn out...

 

So I desoldered the caps and relay ( not for the faint hearted as its on a very small scale ) and reinstalled the new components. All back in the car and working ( although it's done that to me for a day or so previously and stopped again ) - I will post back if it holds up.... I have also ordered the console climate control panel off eBay so if all fails again, I will replace that..
 

Pics :- 1) starting point   2) speed controller unit off    3) case off speed controller   4) circuit lifted off heat sink     5) Showing components I changed    6) New components ready to get swapped

7) desoldered components and tools used    8)  New bits soldered in ( not great soldering job - but copper starting to lift from board )

 

Fingers crossed!!!

 

Tim 

Great work if it stands the test of time.  Anything visually wrong with either cap? Not seeing obvious bulging, or leaking.  Wonder what the relay does?

No Visual signs, but these are vented at the PCB end as they are not scored on the tops and were not visible as they sit in plastic holding structures They were only 90p each so I thought why not...The relay is a 20A unit at 12 - 14v and when I put it back in testing I could hear it click once the ignition was turned on. My guess is that it powers the whole unit based on the ignition switch. The spec for it, I believe states that they are silver plated contacts, so after a certain amount of time, they get arcing related oxidation problems on the contact surfaces. Again, this fits the intermittent failure behavior. I could be wrong, but everything else on the board looks semiconductor pieces and usually when they fail, they're gone.

Fingers crossed, I should know by the weekend as when I took it out to clean it and then took it out again to change the motor brushes, it always worked when put back for a day or so before stopping.. 

Just a quick update - It's still working fine!

 

 

Mine just died tonight after a week of sitting at the airport.

Yet to investigate but could be the same thing :/