Hi All,

 

I'm having a few issues with my Skoda Octavia Estate.

I believe it is a 2003 (MK1?) Diesel (90BHP?).

 

The issue I was having was the car was difficult to start and was having difficulty staying running.

After I changed the glow plugs and fuel filter, believing this to be the issue, i noticed an excess of air bubbles in the fuel line.

I replaced the seals on the return valve with genuine skoda parts and used cir-clips on the outlet hoses and the bubbles have all but gone.

 

The car is now starting and ticks over well.

 

What I'm now getting is an intermittent loss of power at low RPM. This is most noticeable from a standing start (pulling off/Traffic Lights), where the car almost kangeroos, but can be felt at higher speeds on gear change.

 

The issue seems to occur between 1000 - 2500 RPM, after which the power comes on strong.

I can hear the turbo spinning up during this time so I know that it's OK, but I still think its a turbo issue.

(maybe it's not delivering consistent power when it should???? - i'm a mechanical newbie)

 

The car is not going into limp mode, but I was tempted to do the Mr Muscle trick to see if that helps (Sticky vanes).

I'm guessing here and wanted to know if this is a common issue and what would be a good way of diagnosing/fixing this issue?

 

TIA

Steve

Interestingly when it's lumpy I get a puff of blue smoke directly after

ok slight update.

i have cleaned the EGR as i saw a few posts around this.

I used wynns egr cleaner for diesels and a tooth brush and got as much gunk out of there as possible.

 

Now the car is accelerating consistently, but seems to have a lack of power.

I'm beginning to think it "is" the turbo, either not actuating when needed or something wrong with the vac line/system.

I can here a turbo whistle as I rev so know it's spinning up!

 

Any suggestions on a method to diagnose if it's the VAC or the Turbo?

i'm thinking see if the actuator runs smooth or if its stuck might be a good way to diagnose sticky veins?

 

any help would be great. 

got myself a cheap ODB reader and have 2 error codes on the engine

 

18062 and 16485

Both of which are not in the manual (#great!)

 

Does anyone know what these mean, or point me in the direction of where i can find out

 

from what i have read so far 18062 suggests error in the in dash????

can't see anything consistent with 16485

 

TIA

info on 16485 for you - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16485/P0101/000257

 

18062 is probably there because of the 16485 code if it has been in memory for some considerable period of time without being acted upon.

@tumbledown - If the TDi is all black it's a 90bhp. It the "i" in TDi is red it's a 110, and more likely to get sticky vanes.

its the 90bhp i believe. so looking at the code it looks like a MAF replacement at £140 is needed :( 

i've had a look at the air intake and there is no obvious leaks.

 

I did a test to unplug the MAF and it made no difference to the issue.

Do i assume that the ECU is using a default map when it errors?

 

She drives but is absolutely gutless

its really bad initially when the car is started, but if i floor it she holds at 2500 revs and then after a few seconds she revs up to 4-5000.

 

no lights on the dash to indicate a problem but i guess the error code 18062  could be the issue there.

 

@tumbledown - When you unplug the MAF, it uses a default mapping, rather than values from the MAF, which actually suggests that the MAF is good.

Hmm so if the MAF is good where next?

(falls down the rabbit hole)

 

@KenONeill out of interest, given the error code is "Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Implausible Signal" it sounds like the ECU cannot see the MAF and is running a default map, which is why there is no difference with it plugged in or not.

 

I have a feeling this is either a wiring issue or the MAF is dead.

the only thing that counter that logic is that the code only appears when revving to 2000RPM (which is gutless) and then it jumps to life.

i can get a used MAF for £20 (+PP) that has a warranty for 90 days. at least i will be able to rule it out

Ok. All fixed. It was the MAF. It would seem the default setting was getting applied soon after the car was started which it was why there was no difference when unplugged. Got a used MAF for £20 so big saving, plus if it goes again I know a new from dealer part will fix it.

@tumbledown - Ah, most people disconnect the MAF with the engine off. Also, I've never heard of this map switching on the fly behaviour before.