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Heaters not working and now it’s overheating ( Genius needed) ha


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Hello, a few months ago I started having problems with my heaters. They would work when you were driving the car and go cold when you left it to idle. 

Few hours are searching, these are the things I have done, I have flushed the system numerous times using different engine flushes then the hose pipe to clean the heater matrix and radiator. I would have a little success but it was always short lived. After a month of messing about the car was due a service, so I went for the full job. (I have known the car for 5 years and it’s never been done) I changed the pump, belts, tensioners, coolant, oils, filters etc. 

After this the heaters worked better for 1 week and then reduced to just blowing ‘warm’ air and cold when it idled.

Next I changed the heater matrix core, as that was always getting blocked up, after running water back through it I was always getting brown coloured water coming out of it. I changed this and got the same problem. 

 

Now the car car has started overheating, just at 70mph on the motorway and the gauge creeps past 90 degrees, I will add that at this point the car does not blow hot air at all!! So I continue keeping a very close eye on the temp, the car never get to hot so I limp home. When I get home I jump out the car, open the bonnet and all the pipes are warm but the one from the bottom of the radiator to he bottom of the thermostat.

 

So here are my questions:

 

• I need to test the thermostat, but can this cause these problems?

• blocked front radiator? 

• Head Gasket? (No common signs)

• new water pump failed? (There is return flow into my extension Tank)

• Is there anything I am missing or could check?

 

 

Motor flaps have been checked and work. The car doesn’t use water, there is no clear mixing of water and oil, Oil is clean. Non genuine parts used on service! To bleed the system I removed expansion tank lid ran on a fast idle till the fan cycled on and off the topped up water (if needed and replaced lid) 

 

Any help would be massively appreciated!  

Edited by cartervrs
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Water pump!

 

Ah, just noticed you have changed this already! Even so, there must be a problem with flow if your not getting heat and no flow through the radiator.

 

 

Edited by SuperbTWM
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Try temperature sensor as well just thought they can sometimes cause weird behavior even new waterpumps can go wrong ,

Tbh its like air getting into the system somewhere, is the matrix leaking at all ? Just been reading up and it mentions what I've just put .. Hope that helps .

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Doesn’t drop one bit of water or oil. I have removed the undertray for a few weeks, always gets parked in the same spot and there is nothing on the ground. 

 

Water temp sensor, the sensor is ok always solid at 90 degrees and works properly even when it is over 90.

 

went for a drive tonight, I can get heat through the heaters you just have to be driving at a constant speed for a minute or so. If you give it any power or high RPM you loose heat straight away! Makes me wonder weather the head gasket it failing when there is high pressure from the RPM/Boost. Can anyone shed any light on this!? 

Does boost effect water pressure? I am guess RPM does. 

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12 hours ago, cartervrs said:

Doesn’t drop one bit of water or oil. I have removed the undertray for a few weeks, always gets parked in the same spot and there is nothing on the ground. 

 

Water temp sensor, the sensor is ok always solid at 90 degrees and works properly even when it is over 90.

 

went for a drive tonight, I can get heat through the heaters you just have to be driving at a constant speed for a minute or so. If you give it any power or high RPM you loose heat straight away! Makes me wonder weather the head gasket it failing when there is high pressure from the RPM/Boost. Can anyone shed any light on this!? 

Does boost effect water pressure? I am guess RPM does. 

If its head failure or early stages of then signs are what you already know,

When the heating runs hot and cold it then sounds like air burp / lock.... If its hot that then the other way heating loss happens is either fast driving which cools the engine down quickly or somewhere along the pipe line maybe a collapsed or restricted hose .. Its one of these stab in the dark situations , did you take the stat out maybe its stuck open ?

Good luck with this 

Not sure 

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@cartervrs - Just read this; I think it sounds a lot like your thermostat has stuck closed.

 

Also the CTS is a red herring; they have 2 channels so what it's telling the gauge isn't always what it's telling the EMS, and the gauge is "stabilised" so it reads ~88C when the water temp is anywhere between 70 and 100.

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Going to check the thermostat when I get a chance this week! Boiling water and see if it opens.

what happens if I remove it all the together, I have read that the temp will be all over the place and it will take long to warm up... is that correct?

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1 minute ago, cartervrs said:

Going to check the thermostat when I get a chance this week! Boiling water and see if it opens.

what happens if I remove it all the together, I have read that the temp will be all over the place and it will take long to warm up... is that correct?

Your run  cool and may burn more fuel , old school cars were OK with stat bit colder in winter lol try it without if it make no difference then its circulation could be duff water pump.

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6 hours ago, cartervrs said:

Going to check the thermostat when I get a chance this week! Boiling water and see if it opens.

what happens if I remove it all the together, I have read that the temp will be all over the place and it will take long to warm up... is that correct?

 

Dude, seriously, they're so cheap, if you're going to all the trouble of draining the coolant and removing it, dropping it in boiling water, then refitting it. Just cut out the silly step, chuck it straight in the bin and refit a new one instead.

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2 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Dude, seriously, they're so cheap, if you're going to all the trouble of draining the coolant and removing it, dropping it in boiling water, then refitting it. Just cut out the silly step, chuck it straight in the bin and refit a new one instead.

I couldn’t agree more, no point messing about for that amount of money. Do TPS do genuine parts?

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Diesel engines really need their thermostats fitted and working well otherwise the glowplugs have to stay on for much longer and the engine never warms up properly leading to poor performance and heavy fuel consumption and emissions.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thermostat replaced with a genuine one but the old thermostat worked perfectly anyway. When this was out I felt through to the water pump and everything felt fine I couldn’t move the impeller or anything so I don’t think this is the problem. 

Fully bleed the system back up and the heaters came really warm. Then when I drove home they were fine until I give it some boost. Then they went cold almost like the pressure is being released from the system.

 

while I was doing the thermostat, I did the exhaust gas test in the coolant this tested fine, pressure tested the system as well and found no leaks and it held pressure perfectly. 

 

I am am thinking it could be the expansion tank lid, is this common to release pressure? 

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6 minutes ago, cartervrs said:

Thermostat replaced with a genuine one but the old thermostat worked perfectly anyway. When this was out I felt through to the water pump and everything felt fine I couldn’t move the impeller or anything so I don’t think this is the problem. 

Fully bleed the system back up and the heaters came really warm. Then when I drove home they were fine until I give it some boost. Then they went cold almost like the pressure is being released from the system.

 

while I was doing the thermostat, I did the exhaust gas test in the coolant this tested fine, pressure tested the system as well and found no leaks and it held pressure perfectly. 

 

I am am thinking it could be the expansion tank lid, is this common to release pressure? 

 

If the expansion tank cap seal had gone you would lose coolant due to coolant expansion when it boiled after being depressurised. Likewise if you were over pressurising the system due to head lift you would also lose coolant.

You say you are losing no coolant at all, but it does sound like head lift since this puts a big bubble of gas at the highest point in the cooling system, which is the heater matrix.

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Ok what other symptoms go with head lift then? 

So when the head lifts your saying that would be under full load/boost. Lifting the head over pressurising the water system and putting air in which therefore make the heaters go cold. When I tested the water system for exhaust gas there wasn’t any. Or shall I say the liquid didn’t change colour. 

 

So take the head off, new head gasket, arp head bolts and problem solved? There can’t really be anything else that would be causing it! 

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