I have a 2014 2litre tdi that if the outside temperature is below 10 degrees it takes for ever to get to normal temperature even at motorway and dual carriageway speeds(15miles) the colder outside the longer it takes. If you do get temperature on guage and put heating on then you lose temperature. Thermostat has been changed just wondered if anybody has the same problem. Going to dealer next week so need .heads up info if any one has any

All diesels take forever to warm up. Which is one reason why they should not be over revved till the oil has warmed up. 

It is also surprising as to how long it takes the oil in my 2.0 TSi to reach 50 degrees. I tend to leave the MFD on Oil Temp in the TSi unless I am on a long journey.

9 hours ago, vegit8 said:

All diesels take forever to warm up. Which is one reason why they should not be over revved till the oil has warmed up. 

 

This is not really true these days.

Even the Octavia has a complex heating system using heat from the turbo charger & coolant water bypass to warm up the engine much quicker than old diesels.

 

I park my 2L TDi outside (current températures are below 0 during the night & around 3-4 during the day).

After starting & driving to the highway (~2km on 50kph roads) I would say the temperature gauge has already started to increase.

I will check it again on my drive home tonight but I would say after 10km the temperature gauge on the maxidot is in the middle or almost there.

 

I could drive to work for 30miles in My old Mondeo from 10 years & the gauge wouldnt even move from the bottom in winter.

 

Why did you have the thermostat changed?

Is there actually a old style thermostat on the TDI?

I thought the water pump was a variable flow type which can bring coolant from the hot & cold circuits depending on the engine temperature?

I was referring to oil temperature, my 65 plate 2.0 Tdi takes between 15 / 20 mins of driving at 40 - 60 ,mph before the oil gets up to operating temperature

1 hour ago, Gabbo said:

 

This is not really true these days.

Even the Octavia has a complex heating system using heat from the turbo charger & coolant water bypass to warm up the engine much quicker than old diesels.

 

I park my 2L TDi outside (current températures are below 0 during the night & around 3-4 during the day).

After starting & driving to the highway (~2km on 50kph roads) I would say the temperature gauge has already started to increase.

I will check it again on my drive home tonight but I would say after 10km the temperature gauge on the maxidot is in the middle or almost there.

 

I could drive to work for 30miles in My old Mondeo from 10 years & the gauge wouldnt even move from the bottom in winter.

 

Why did you have the thermostat changed?

Is there actually a old style thermostat on the TDI?

I thought the water pump was a variable flow type which can bring coolant from the hot & cold circuits depending on the engine temperature?

Yes it has an old type thermostat changed it to see if that was the fault.yes it has variable flow pump looks as that may be the problem

I had a Toyota Yaris with a 1400 turbo diesel. In the winter it would take about 8 miles of dual carriageway before there was any heat in the engine. Diesel engines give more mpg and this means less energy or heat from the fuel is wasted.  I have also read that because there is no throttle, ie restriction on the air intake, there is full air flow at all times through the engine and this carries away much of the heat through the exhaust. So what you gain in mpg you lose in excess engine heat to power the heater. I also noticed that the diesel engine average mpg varied by about 7 mpg between winter and summer, less mpg in winter. And a long drive in rain also showed worse fuel economy. Can't explain that effect.

8 hours ago, SoupDragon said:

 And a long drive in rain also showed worse fuel economy. Can't explain that effect.

That is easy, just increased rolling resistance from the tyres 'pumping' the water away to maintain contact with the road.

You must have noticed when the nearside front tyre runs into some standing water how the steering tugs to the left.

 

Some of the winter/summer consumption  differential is due to the colder operating temperatures and longer warm up time, but winter diesel fuel is also a little 'thinner' for the cold weather and has a slightly lower calorific value per litre.

16 hours ago, Colin62 said:

Yes it has an old type thermostat changed it to see if that was the fault.yes it has variable flow pump looks as that may be the problem

 

I can confirm on my car last night (-2° ambient) the temp gauge was in the middle before I reached 10km. (~4km on 50kph roads & the rest at 120kph on the highway).

The oïl temperature on the maxidot displayed 50° shortly afterwards.

 

There is a known issue with the variable flow coolant pump, especially on older 2013/14 TDi where the sleeve which controls the flow rate sticks.

It seems to fail around 50k miles which is usually at the limit or just after the warrenty has expired for the average driver.

Usually it sticks shut, causing a high temperature warning but I guess its not impossible to stick the other way so that it stays open which would make the warmup time just like a old style diesel.

If it is faulty there should be a DTC which says "variable flow water pump - position stuck".

 

For info, Skoda usually offers at least 50% towards the cost of this replacement as its a known fault if you can convince the dealer to make a claim to Skoda UK.

 

Winter Diesel is different in World Regions.

& in the UK not 'thinner' because of the the Anti Waxing formula'. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winter_diesel_fuel 

Edited 8 February, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

12 hours ago, SoupDragon said:

I had a Toyota Yaris with a 1400 turbo diesel. In the winter it would take about 8 miles of dual carriageway before there was any heat in the engine. Diesel engines give more mpg and this means less energy or heat from the fuel is wasted.  I have also read that because there is no throttle, ie restriction on the air intake, there is full air flow at all times through the engine and this carries away much of the heat through the exhaust. So what you gain in mpg you lose in excess engine heat to power the heater. I also noticed that the diesel engine average mpg varied by about 7 mpg between winter and summer, less mpg in winter. And a long drive in rain also showed worse fuel economy. Can't explain that effect.

 

+1 for what Gerrycan said about the rain.

Heating/cooling systems are much more complex these days which minimise these effects on a diesel.

e.g. The heat for the heater matrix can be taken from the turbo oïl instead of engine coolant, the cooling circuit is closed at startup so it doesnt cycle water through the radiator or external pipes etc

The main drivers for these complexities are better emissions but have the added benefit of improved comfort for the driver.

Hence, some of the features from more premium engines makes there way down the chain to cheaper versions.

39 minutes ago, AwaoffSki said:

Winter Diesel is different in World Regions.

& in the UK not 'thinner' because of the the Anti Waxing formula'. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winter_diesel_fuel 

Point taken. Blending in Europe ceased after I left.

Although essential for cold weather does the anti-waxing additions reduce the overall fuel effectiveness slightly, or not?

Not a clue, but the MPG does not have to drop just because there is winter diesel used in the UK in my experience of driving diesels.

 

Do they maybe ensure that for volume you get a fuel capable of producing the same energy?

Or does it have 3% less energy when used in a diesel engine?

 

Does it reduce it's effectiveness meaning that Haulage Companies & Fleet buyers have to purchase more fuel because it is winter Derv 

even if it is the Winter Season but the temperatures are not lower, no snow, ice or sub zero temperatures.

Every week is not cold October to March in the UK. 

 

That means a week of fuel use in February / March might be compared with the same miles covered and driven in May if the weather is the same,

ambient temps & when the Winter Diesel is no longer being distributed / retailed in the UK.

http://bbc.co.uk/news/uk-17595024 

So easy for those that monitor fuel use to compare, and bulk buyers for commercial use to know if there vehicles require more fuel.

Edited 8 February, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

The Octavia Mk3 TDi has three water circuits and three water pumps. One pump mechanically driven and two electrically.

 

Flow rates are variable as is the interaction between circuits.

 

There is definitely something wrong with Colin's TDi and it's probably going to be the main pump.

 

Have a look at pages 18, 19 and 20.

http://pics3.tdiclub.com/data/517/820433_EA288.pdf

 

Lee

 

 

Edited 8 February, 20188 yr by logiclee

1 hour ago, logiclee said:

The Octavia Mk3 TDi has three water circuits and three water pumps. One pump mechanically driven and two electrically.

 

Flow rates are variable as is the interaction between circuits.

 

There is definitely something wrong with Colin's TDi and it's probably going to be the main pump.

 

Have a look at pages 18, 19 and 20.

http://pics3.tdiclub.com/data/517/820433_EA288.pdf

 

Lee

 

 

Thanks Lee will bear that that in mind 

Car been  at dealer for a week first they said coolant contamination they flushed system including heat exchanger and water pump refilled system and it was still the same (surprise surprise).then they fitted New heat exchanger and still the same (surprise surprise).they won't accept that something is allowing coolant to flow around the engine when cold.Contacting dealer first thing in morning to see what response I get

Have a look at the overheating thread  that is in this forum.

the people suffering that usually have water pumps stuck at half flow.

I suspect your pump is stuck at full flow. Both opposite symptoms of the same problem.

they are getting it fixed and Skoda are picking up part of the bill for a known problem it  may help you

to know what to say  

 

 

Edited 23 February, 20188 yr by maul

I agree this is the likely cause but it seems strange that the dealer cant find this quickly as there is a DTC for a stuck valve & there must be a test proceedure to flick the valve open & closed using their diagnostic tool.

Unless changing the coolant & heater matrix is just a way to charge more back to Skoda for the repair.

On 2/7/2018 at 23:26, SoupDragon said:

I had a Toyota Yaris with a 1400 turbo diesel. In the winter it would take about 8 miles of dual carriageway before there was any heat in the engine. Diesel engines give more mpg and this means less energy or heat from the fuel is wasted.  I have also read that because there is no throttle, ie restriction on the air intake, there is full air flow at all times through the engine and this carries away much of the heat through the exhaust. So what you gain in mpg you lose in excess engine heat to power the heater. I also noticed that the diesel engine average mpg varied by about 7 mpg between winter and summer, less mpg in winter. And a long drive in rain also showed worse fuel economy. Can't explain that effect.

I can explain worse fuel consumption in rain particularly heavy motorway which I have done over the last 26years because there is increased drag on the tyres particularly wide low profiles such as 225/40 225/35 found on VRS Octavia's.

I'm sure that's the answer. I have certainly noticed the drag when two wheels hit a puddle and the other two are on dry road.