Evening,

First time posting so hello to all in here.

Hoping someone can keep me straight regarding positioning of axle stands on my MK2 vRS. I've read conflicting views on where to place a stand after the car has been jacked up. Some warn against using any parts of suspension, some don't. If using the sill though for axle stands, is there enough room for a jack and a stand at the same time? Plus, I assume an adapter/modified hockey puck would be needed to avoid damaging the seam?

 

Hockey puck for jacking yes. My seams have a few bends in them from garages jacking incorrectly.

 

Front axle stands fit perfectly under rear control arm bushes, assuming it's not the control arm you're working on!

 

On the rear I have put stands underneath, but can't quite remember where exactly, here is a picture I have:

 

 

Thanks for the speedy reply Stu. Much appreciated.

 

Only had the vRS 3 months and not spent any time under it yet so just needing some reassuring words of wisdom. 

 

Anyone else with suggestions for rear end axle stands as this is the end I'm looking to lift? Cheers

 

 

At the rear in front of the wheels you will see a domed plate bolted to the underside, that is where I usually place axle stands.

Also, you will need a double deep hockey puck like this, to reach either side of the sills / seams without actually jacking on them:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trolley-Jack-Tool-Rubber-pad-Pinch-Weld-slot-20mm-Deep-10mm-jacking-Classic-Car/282802163381?hash=item41d8528eb5:g:IFYAAOSwdG9XRMGt

 

 

Edited 13 March, 20188 yr by Stu vRS

Many thanks Mac, will give that a try.

One step ahead of you Stu. Ordered that exact one not 2 hours ago. Thanks again.

FWIW, when I jack up the rear of the car, I use trolley jacks with quite wide/long 1" thick pieces of wood about 6" x 10"  (offcuts from fencing "gravel boards") on the tops of the elevating parts under the rear floor panels just in front of the rear suspension because that spreads the load over quite a large area - but making sure that the wooden pieces don't squash brake/fuel pipes and brake cables. Worked so far (including today when I changed the rear shocks), and leaves it clear to jack up the lower wishbones (etc.) as required.

 

NB: I jack up both sides of the car at the same time (got lots of trolley jacks  ) - so not causing undue twisting forces on the chassis

Edited 13 March, 20188 yr by jeallen01

Thanks Jeallen

Putting the car up weds to replace bearing/hub to hopefully resolve abs fault so you guys have given me plenty to go on. Once again , much appreciated.

PS: I also find that using a small bottle jack (preferably with a fairly large head) is a good way of raising/ lowering the swinging arm assembly when changing a shock etc. Doesn't take up much space on the ground and can give finer adjustment than a trolley jack (my bottle jack was bought from Lidl with just this sort of job in mind - although, unfortunately, it does have a small head).

PS: If you don't have a lift!? Then this is the only way to work under a car.

This is a screenshot of my video.

The actual jack is on the sill jack stand(you'll see the arrow pointing to the jack point if you open the door) my jack stand is 8 "inches towards front of the jack annnnd my tyre with cholks/wedges is about another 8" towards the front of my jack stand.. Now work away and be safe

Edited 20 March, 20188 yr by Ardle