Yeti 2012 5L 2l TDI CFHC cambelt,waterpump & bearing

[voxmagna]

I'm up for the challenge so armed with the tools, cam belt kit, water pump and new V belt + shop manual  I set about doing this job. But can it really be so hard? I've got all the clutter out of the way, the top half of the cam belt cover removed, the bottom inter cooler hose off. Now I've got the auxiliary V belt tension pulley locked and I'm about to find out which bolts remove the crank V belt pulley so I can get to the toothed belt pulley which must be behind it.

 

Now I'm looking at the lower half of the cam belt cover and it looks like I would have to remove the right side engine mounting and may be even tilt the engine slightly to remove it?

 

Has anybody done a cam belt change on the Yeti 4wd 2l CFHC 2l diesel? My shop manual  instructions say nothing about supporting the engine and removing the engine mounting.

[Urrell]

Have you had a scan thru YouTube?
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=yeti+cambelt+change

[voxmagna]

Thanks, I haven't found anything specific to the common rail E189 engine in a 2012ish Yeti. The problems aren't just fitting a timing belt but negotiating all the Yeti specific parts that are packed in around the timing cover. 

 

In order to remove the lower plastic timing belt cover you have to disconnect a black painted rigid section of steel pipe in the cooling  system. After that I was able to lock the crank,cam shaft and fuel pump, remove belt tension and the belt. But the right side bracket, which looks like part of the engine mounting, is still an obstruction because you cannot slide  the belt tensioner assembly off the threaded mounting spigot to replace it without removing the ali bracket.

 

The shop manual info can be misleading because whilst is explains in detail how to replace both belts and check timing, once you start replacing parts like the roller bearings, tensioner and water pump, more obstructing parts have to be removed.

 

Oh well, more to do and good luck to anybody else replacing a Yeti CR cam belt and parts.

[Ryeman]

You will have to support the engine to get the cam belt past the support post obviously.

[voxmagna]

No, you don't need to remove the right side engine support bracket to remove and replace either belts. But since the threaded stud for the tensioner is so long, you have to remove the engine bracket to slide it off. Had they have used a bolt instead, removal of the tensioner would have been possible. I'm not sure yet if the water pump can be withdrawn with the bracket in place either, but it looks like there's enough room.  Anybody who has done this before on the Yeti 4WD will know the pitfalls and if they don't they should now be aware that fitting a new belt roller and bearing kit  is more work than you might expect. Or more expensive in labor at the Stealers.

[175GDY]

 

[voxmagna]

Thanks, That vid is what I've had to do and shows the right engine mount support and mounting being removed - All a pain. There are unknown issues lurking and waiting for you though.  The Yeti is on level ground or a 4 post lift whereas I use front ramps. When you support the engine from underneath it will twist towards the rear which makes re-alignment with the side mounting more challenging.

 

When they build these engines I suspect they attach the side mounting before lowering the body on to the assembly because I defy anybody to remove the 3 side mounting bolts easily and get them torqued correctly in the restricted working space.

 

There is a partial solution to all this difficulty: You can just about change the belts, pulley bearings and water pump with the mounting bracket in place, although getting to the lower  cam cover fixings is hard. In the cam kits they supply new threaded spigots for the tensioner and it would be possible with a pair of locking nuts to remove that and the tensioner together to avoid sliding it off.  The thread on the spigot fitting in the ali block is quite short. Even so I don't like messing with them as threads are easily damaged when working at odd angles. Removing the side engine mounting is more work but it does give you more space to fit the new parts and do the timing checks.

 

Thanks for the link, I thought for such a common workshop procedure somebody here would have actually done it? My job is nearly done now.