voxmagna

I write notes to myself because it's sometimes not about what to do, but what not to do and fall into a hole next time. I can contribute polished write ups with photos or a video, but there's a tendency for beginners to follow step by step as a problem solver without thinking things through. Problems like these can follow several different paths which may not all apply and there's plenty others have posted on each. What I've tried to do is post my notes and thoughts and it's up to the reader to try and work out what may apply to them. I did fit and try the used Passat injector without re-coding it first and the engine started up and to my ears appeared to run smooth and fine (with no smoke). It actually came from a later 2013 CF series engine but not my CFHC. That's why I suggested the 'calibration' is likely to be fine tuning. Since the ECU plays a part in re-learning some values after you enter a new code, I can only guess what these are and they must come from the Bosch automated injector tester which rebuilders use to allocate a new serial number code? These are the variable characteristics I think each injector may have: Mechanical, e.g How the solenoid responds in time to lifting the jet needle (delay?) and how fast it can pulse for higher rpm, volume of fuel let through the injector nozzle from the time the solenoid is triggered to when it turns off. This would include any lag due to the mass and friction of internal parts, important at high speeds. But how does the ECU 'tune'? I'm not sure if these CR engines have knock sensors, but that feedback could be used to modify the defaultinjector calibration for minimum knock? I took the Yeti on a spirited 30 mile fast drive to complete the dpf regenerating cycle and burn off any unburned fuel left over from the fault. When I got back, I wiped the inside of the tail pipe with tissue and there was zero carbon deposit. I don't know if you've looked at Bosch piezo injectors? I'm glad I don't have them! These are more complex and their calibration data also includes a (high) voltage parameter. Their advantage over the simpler solenoid type like mine is they can turn the nozzle jet on and off 5-10 times faster. This allows the injector, to pre- squirt, normal squirt and post squirt fuel for each firing cycle up to the maximumum engine rpm. You get better efficiency, lower emissions and less diesel knock.

The short steel fuel lines have the same unions each end and are reversible. Used Golf lines are compatible and bendable. But you and anybody else should know that injector nozzle pressure for these CR engines is 1800 Bar or 26,100 psi and there are serious safety issues and hazards which would be unacceptable in an industrial workplace environment. When fuel injectors are tested in a Bosch automated tester, they sit inside a clear polycarbonate safety box protecting the operator. If you search the internet you will find some DIY methods done at your own risk. The Bosch test kit generates the same working pressure as the HP pump, but in a much safer way. An important test on the Bosch machine is nozzle leakage. There should be no leakage from the nozzle of a solenoid injector when the injector is at rail pressure and there is no power to the solenoid. Not wanting to suggest unsafe procedures, I think you can work things out for yourself. 🙂

What I would have done differently is less hunch and more tests before removing parts! Paying for workshop repairs and parts on diesels is expensive. The cost of buying or borrowing some key tools like a leak back test kit (cheap) and compression tester is relatively cheap compared to labour charges. Measuring crank case vacuum is a cheap bit plastic hose and an oil cap. Having and being able to use a digital multimeter is essential for most DIY car work. When you do remove injectors I explained by visual inspection that you can find a lot wrong with them. Having a spare known good injector allows you to swap it with each of 4 and save you injector testing costs. I also wondered about re-entering the injector numbers. If you think how they work, the ECU only knows about pulsing the injector in time units and the EFi loop is the feedback to control fuel to air ratio. I think the calibration is only relevant with a new injector where in addition to the air fuel setting, the ECU is being told in advance what volume of fuel corresponds to an injection stroke at constant fuel rail pressure. If you buy a set of recond injectors e.g from Germany, they come with a test report done on a Bosch tester and a new serial number = calibration. The ECU 'learns' to modify the data after the injector code has been entered which I think is just a tweak of the starting reference point? If the injector is worn then I think the ECU will have monitored that and re-learned. If it hasn't then re-entering the original code starts the ECU learning over again. The advantage of checking your injector codes with the cylinders using diagnostics is if you or somebody mixes them up, diagnostics will tell you which cylinder they go back in.

I learned how to become a Common Rail diesel Expert! MY12 Yeti SE 4WD Tdi is now healthy and smoke free. Fault finding was a journey of patience with some wrong turns and a few self inflicted mistakes. I'll contribute my rough notes in case anybody else has similar diesel engine problems: 1. Working on a 2l common rail diesel isn't easy. Removing parts can be difficult and expensive if things don't go to plan. Start by understanding the possible problems, causes, and plan to do checks and tests which avoid removing parts. 2. Smoke can be one of 3 kinds or a mixture: Black smoke = Excessive diesel or insufficient air, Blue smoke = Oil burn, white + blue smoke = oil + coolant water burn. 3. Smoke can have several causes. Severe black smoke (rolling coal) can be caused by faulty (open) fuel injector(s), low compression,loss of turbo boost pressure (insufficient air) or EGR problems may also affect air supply. 4. Oil burning blue smoke can come from bad piston rings, valve seals, excessive crank case pressure, bad turbo seals, faulty EGR operation, or blocked up and gunged EGR, pipes and inlet manifold. Also check the PCV. 5. Most of these possible causes are hard to prove, but doing the least invasive checks first will eliminate many possible causes. 6. Check 1: Run diagnostics and check there are no engine malfunction codes. If no, then smoke problems arise because the cause isn't measured and reported by diagnostics. Check 2: Check for Excessive crank case pressure/blowback on idle by removing the oil cap and feeling with your hand. I actually measured my crank case pressure. You cannot do it at the dipstick because the tube is below the sump oil level. I used a spare V.W oil cap, drilled a centre hole for some pvc tube and connected it to a Monument Gas water gauge - but you can just use a long tube formed as a 'U' and put in some dyed water. I measured a partial vacuum of 3-4 inches WG on idle (Good). Check 3: Do a compression test on each cylinder via the glowplug aperture (M10 x 1mm). N.B Most Chinese compression test tools are for petrol engines up to 300 psi and don't have the pressure or long reach adaptors required for diesels. I found a cheap 0-1000psi diesel comp. test set. Check 4: Test each fuel injector connector with a multimeter: All 0.5 ohm = solenoid type = Good. All >200k ohm= piezo=Good. Check 5: Injector leak off test. This requires plastic hoses connected to each fuel injector leak line. The amount of fuel leaking back is measured on idle for 30 seconds, then at about 2K rpm. There isn't an exact science, but the leak off volumes should be similar from each fuel injector and there should be some. The purpose of this simple test is to identify unusual fuel injector operation before trying to remove it. Warning: Bosch injectors code 03L/130/277J (0445 110 369 B004) are strange because the injector leak off connection is done with a nozzle and push fitting internal plastic retaining clip. Cheap Chinese test kits for Bosch injectors using external clips won't fit this type. They are also damn dangerous, because it's too easy for the plastic retainer to not engage and fill your engine bay with diesel!! Check 6: Dynamic injector pressure test: Risky but some do it wearing gloves and safety glasses: Reverse the injector link to the common rail and tape the injector into a clear plastic tonic water bottle. Remove injector plugs to other 3 injectors to stop firing and have a second person crank whilst looking at the spray pattern. These injector nozzles have 4 outlets. You can only see them on the tip with a magifier or microscope. Check 7: Eliminate the turbo as far as possible. Turbos passing oil causes blue smoke, particularly during acceleration. Remove a large clip on the turbo intercooler hose and check inside for any excessive oil pooling inside. The turbo is fed with high pressure oil which drains through gravity back to the sump. Check the turbo oil drain isn't blocked. The crank case back pressure (should be a vacuum!) is important because positive pressure prevents oil draining from the turbo and forces it past seals. Many good turbos are replaced when these are the real problems.It's more difficult to check turbo seal oil leaks on the exhaust side without removing the DPF and pipes - a horrendous job on the 4x4. Even if these tests as much as you can do all look o.k, that is confirmation to look elsewhere. 7. I didn't do an injector leak test first (I should have). My test conclusions led me to fuel injectors. A diesel specialist will test 4 injectors for £80. If MY12 Yeti had done over 120k instead of 75k, I wouldn't have bothered testing the injectors, just go to a German firm that will supply a set of 4 re-conditioned and re-calibrated with test certificates. Another option I didn't do was buy a used injector for about £70, take a chance it was good and use it as a swap to check the others. After testing I was told injector 2 was so bad it shouldn't go back. But removing injector 2 gave me so much grief I could have damaged it? I was still uncertain and went ahead to buy a used injector with the same part codes from a Passat. 8. Removing a fuel injector from this CR engine: Easy is gently lift up with a flat screwdriver blade using the ABS rocker housing as a fulcrum point. That didn't work for me. Next option is a slide hammer. There are some Ebay injector removal kits using a slide hammer. The first type require the large nut holding the solenoid to be removed in the car. Frought because the solenoid pin, spring and spacer washer can jump out. Safest is the removal tool (Laser) that attaches to the side of the injector body using its fuel inlet nipple. The most important thing is impact must be absolutely vertical on the mounted centre line of the injector. I made a removal tool that clamps to the side with the fuel inlet nipple. 9. When injectors are removed you can check if their stem O rings are still in situ. Mine were burned away. This O rings prevents oil from inside the rocker casing falling down and welling close to the hot injector nozzle, it isn't the primary seal. There's an important copper sealing washer underneath each nozzle, this often drops back into the hole as the injector is removed. Remove the ABS rocker cover because you can then see lower down and inspect the PCV diaphragm. 10. In my case, some injectors had significant black gunge around their nozzles and copper washers were scored. The worst had a part of the surface blown away! The consequence of this is compression leaks inside the valve cover adding dieselto oil blow back and being fed into the exhaust. Remember I said check the compression leak readings for each cylinder! I replaced the copper nozzle washers and even lapped them smooth. I checked the cylinder head nozzle surfaces and gently cleaned them up a little with a 15mm flat cutter. The Chinese seat cutter set was flawed. Their smallest 15mm cutter head fits on a 17mm mandril which I had to turn down to 15mm. 11. Diesel Fuel injectors: I assumed they were piezo, I found no local or online firm that would recondition them. I should have measured them first with a multimeter. Mine were about 0.5 ohms each. Therefore they are solenoid type. A piezo injector will measure very high resistance. Bosch are very clever at making it difficult to do any servicing. The nozzles are coded and you can find parts, but the hex head they put on the nozzle won't fit any wrench. You can remove the insulated solenoid head with a large spanner, but small parts and a spring can leap out and get lost!! 12. Fuel injectors are coded: Before removing any fuel injector you should note the unique serial number code (7 digits) and its corresponding cylinder. If you have previously scanned the car, check the serial numbers and their position tie up. If they don't, somebody has been messing with injectors, replaced them or mixed them up! The 7 digit Bosch injector code incorporate a calibration value of tested fuel volume which the ECU stores. Using vcds and their 'Security access code' popup you enter the injector serial number. When this is done the ECU is supposed to learn and adapt to the new calibration. In practice, I think this means your engine will run smoothly without much diesel knocking? If you didn't recode an injector, I'm sure the engine would still run. 13. On the home straight I replaced the ABS rocker cover which I destroyed to get access to a stuck injector, fitted 4 injectors with new Viton O rings and copper sealing washers, fitted all the diesel pipework and got ready to purge the fuel lines using diagnostics. That done and after some prolonged cranking with a fully charged battery, the engine ran with NO SMOKE. It runs a lot smoother than it did before and I haven't had to replace a turbo, pistons, valves or piston rings. CONCLUSION: Rolling coal black smoke was probably caused by poor injector nozzle sealing and a faulty injector.

Update on parts: The stock O ring fitted to the injector stem is Buna-N size 16.2x1.5 wht 000 884. I've sourced some Viton O rings 16 x 1.5 and I'll use those. I may even fit a second O ring on the bottom groove, even though it's not machined with square sides for an O ring. The 'Seal' at the bottom of each injector isn't rubber but a copper washer left sitting in the cyl. head which you can hook out. Mine measured 13.36 OD, 7.7 ID x 1.45. There are plenty of Bosch common rail copper washer sets on Ebay, but most are the wrong size. I've found some 13.85 x 7.3 x 1.4 which I think will be ok. Fingers crossed this is an injector problem and nothing more serious needing an engine teardown. The Yeti 4WD diesel is a pig for rear engine access.

Well I finally got them all out with No 2 being the PIG. I had to break the bridge clamp holding 1 & 2 to release 1 and give more room to work. Tap a chisel down the sides between the forks and the injector body and the brittle forks break off. Still couldn't extract No2. so decided to sacrifice the cyl. head cover (£60) to get more extraction options. Didn't use the angle grinder to cut the cover as it would spew far too much plastic over the camshafts. I used a soldering iron with plastic cutting knife bit to create a hole about 50mm around the stuck injector, then lifted the cover over it. More huff & puff and before trying the stillsons, I made the slide hammer heavier and took more care to align the impact shock central to the injector. Also removed trhe HP union and used that to hold my slide hammer fixture solid to the injector body. Each slide hammer blow raised the injector about 5mm until it was clear. Checkout the Laser tools injector remover if you want to copy theirs. Visual condition: Injector 1 oily but clean, O ring still in the groove. Injector 2, Hardly any oiling up, good O ring. Injector 3 oiled up and O ring fragmented. Injector 4 a total mess. with lots of black gunk and hard bits of carbon/O ring outside the injector body, O ring seal gone and groove filled with gunk. The OE seals are 16.2mm ID x 1.5mm. I think they were Buna-N. I shall replace them with 16mm x 1.5mm Viton rings and replace each injector with injector grease. Parts lists shows O rings at the end of each nozzle and some sell kits with 2 O rings per injector. If there's an O ring on the nozzle, It must be way down at the bottom of the cyl. head and I haven't explored how to get to it yet. Off to the diesel injector man tomorrow to have them all tested. Everybody tells me these CR engine injectors aren't serviceable? Not sure what they mean because the black electrical connector body can be removed by the large 29mm nut - watch for the small spring, washer and bypass jet pintle! After that everything is mechanical. It looks as though the lower half of the injector body can be separated? I suspect they can be disassembled but you can't get Bosch small parts and more important, measure and qualify the flow calibration. Onwards & Upwards!

OK thanks. It's not throttle position. RPM smooth and holds, drives like it did before. Injector 4 came out covered in black gunge, the O ring seal had disintegrated. 1&3 were oily but not as bad as 4. I've not leak tested them yet. I'm assuming whilst these piezo injectors aren't serviceable, the O ring (s) can be replaced? Although they look bolted together like others I've seen, if I confirm definite leak past I might have a go at tearing it down. I've destroyed a clamp plate now (a tenner each) but it's still stuck. I suspect the O ring seal has gone and carbon is locking it in? I can get a 29mm open end spanner on the top nut but you can only turn it clockwise tighter and since its not a nut with much width metal, I wouldn't put a lot of force on it. The best way to turn the injector a couple of degrees at a time is to hit the side near the union with a steel bar and hammer. It's virtually impossibe to get the upwards force, even with a slide hammer. I'm tempted to make a fitting, attach it to a lifting beam and lift the whole damn car up on then wallop the side with the bar and hammer.

There is no accessible hex part on these common rail injectors. There is, but the connector is fixed over the top as part of the return flow. Correction whilst replying: There is a hex part but you can't get anything on it whilst the bridge clamp is still attached and you can't get that off unless both injectors are lifted together , So that gives me an idea: Cut the bridge clamp (which I think they say should be replaced anyway, then try to twist the injector with a wrench on the hex?

The smoke (LOTS of it) is definitely diesel and even makes the car interior smell as it was drawn in through the heater duct. If I hold the throttle at 30mph I can see behind the smoke thins, but take my foot off for deceleration and day becomes night. On an immediate cold start there's a small amount of smoke, but I can still smell more diesel in the exhaust than usual. When the engine is hot it gets worse. I should have taken a video because I'm not talking a small amount of smoke, but so much you see nothing behind! The HP fuel pump pressure seems ok as is the turbo boost. My theory is something bad has happened to a fuel injector because that's the only place diesel fuel can enter the engine. If it was a piezo control fault I would expect no fuel past the injector or if it was open only the fuel amount up to the size of the nozzle jet. Since this smoke is so huge, I think more fuel is coming through than what I would expect from a fully open conventional pintle nozzle jet, but then I don't exactly know how the piezo injector controls fuel? I do know if I replace one I'll have to adapt it with vcds and I'm not mixing them up! I shall try again to get number 2 injector out. If I have to remove the head I'm stuck getting parts off around the injector which means cutting through and destroying the bridging clamp and possible the plastic cover? I think I need liquid nitrogen on the injector body which I don't have, but I do have a CO2 fire extinguisher to try which I took the horn off. If I can't see any obvious signs of burning or damage to the injectors, I will put them on my airline at 150psi and dunk the tip in diesel fuel to see if there's any leak, then it's pay to have them tested if I can't see anything obviously wrong.

Never had a serious engine problem, but this started yesterday. The smoke in the rear view is so bad you can't see anything and it's off the road. I don't want the dpf filling up with soot either. All the VCDS scans show no engine fault codes and there's no MIL light on. My thinking is there must be a really bad fuel injector, because diagnostics only monitors the electronics and won't tell you if the nozzle has burned away?? I made a slide hammer to lift them up, got 1,3 & 4 to lift up but number 2 is stuck fast. I tried getting the engine hot but it makes no difference. Before I'm forced into the nuclear option to remove the cyl. head and punch it back out, has anbody got any ideas? It's the worst system of injectors I've seen. The only lifting point is under the fuel inlet port and that's off centre. I've seen the service tools, made those and a slide hammer but it's stuck fast. Because they use a bridging fork to hold down 2 injectors, I can't remove the other one tied with the same bridge. If they had designed the hold down bridge and injectors with some common sense, you would under the center bolt which would pull both injectors up. Common rail diesel injector removal ideas welcome!

Thanks, Nothing under the seat. Question still stands, what does everybody do if they want hands free? Aftermarket box, OE BT module install, or replace head unit with Chinese or Pioneer to get satnav, BT multiple media inputs and all the whistles and bells? I'd still want the radio steering buttons to work and from past experience, this can be a problem with the clone head units. I've got some really cheap Chinese BT boards which I could patch into the radio Aux input. But having phone Contacts on the screen is very useful for hands free,

Hi All, Wifey has the stock Skoda Bolero radio which has a phone button and I've wondered if this means she can use a Bluetooth hands free phone? Some OE radios need you to buy expensive extra addons for these features. We shan't do that because replacing the head unit with something better from China is an option. Is there a cheap way to get easy and reliable hands free on these radios? By easy I mean you jump in the car with your phone BT switched on and it pairs without much hassle? I hit the radio button and scanned looking for Blue tooth but couldn't find anything. Thanks for any help.

It's a while now since I did this and no knocks have returned. I have a number of tricks I use for front end jacking. From memory with the underbody tray removed, I think I used a long length of 4" X 4" timber across 2 places and just rearwards to give plenty of room around the anti roll bar. Then I put the trolley jack in the center with small pressure, removed both wheels and up she went to reveal all.

Just to add my 10 cents: Car internal combustion engines are still simple in how they work, but modern engines with their emissions and electronic controls are extremely complex. The ECU is designed to work with all parts as a system in balance and harmony. Yes, you can remove or stop a part working, but in my view you will imbalance the original design of operation that was achieved by highly paid specialists who know a lot more than most on this forum? So why would you take as credible, the reply from somebody without specialized knowledge (or an auction listing) who knows nothing about the impact of changes to your engine design and running that something is good to do? I've not mentioned the legality because it's up to individual choice. But just to say, rules, requirements and tests are always changing and you need to think how easy or expensive it would be to go back? Those that went to their tuning 'dentist' for EGR delete and DPF remove along with custom software patches (now complicated by dealer recalls) are those whose cars will puff out the black particles during a UK MOT and under new rules, will not be able to drive their cars home. If you are an experienced chip tuner and know more than just how to replace the binary in an ECU, you will know that making any hardware or software modifications, changes the relationship to other engine parts. This is why a good chip tune done by experts and properly tested, costs more than a tuning file made by somebody in their bedroom! For the future with speed limited cars, they will be boring to drive, which will promote electric vehicles (as they probably planned), insurance companies will lobby for these changes as in their best interests but won't be lowering premiums and Clarksons programs may be a thing of the past.

................His wife took it into VW on Monday, but because the AA had cleared the fault & it hadn't re-occured, they said nothing they would do. ...... That's the problem with these type of faults: The electronic management system sees values from the EGR flap position it doesn't understand and sets the fault code. But the flap valve is mechanically linked to an electronic position sensor and motor. Therefore any obstruction could stop it falling back to the stop which the ECU checks during key on initialization. IMHO these random faults rarely go away, the error codes let you know something isn't right then the same problem usually comes back more often. Although cleaners seem an easy thing to do, I don't think they will give the same permanent result as a physical removal and clean? Unfortunately, if you asked a dealer to remove the EGR components and clean everything, they would probably replace the EGR valve rather than spend time cleaning it. Not sure if they would thoroughly clean the pipes and manifolds? With your fault showing up and the uncertainty of it coming back, I'd be tempted to shop around for an independent prepared to do a thorough clean. Perhaps garage techs these days just wear blue overalls, change parts for new, don't get themselves dirty and worry about carcinogens?

On the topic of EGR faults and keeping the emissions system and flap valve clean, I scanned Yeti Tdi with vcds to lower the service mileage and time limits from 2 years (for Longlife Oils) back down to maximum of 10k miles and 1 year. I posted earlier, if you are a low mileage driver, keeping oil clean by changing it more often is better than the benefit of using Long Life oil. I've always found SRI reset using vcds a bit quirky and this time after a reset I spotted 'poor oil quality' still present after reset and changing oil 3k ago. I once thought V.W might be clever and use an IR or light beam sensor to test for dirty oil. Now I believe they just estimate oil quality based on usage - stop starts, distance driven, speeds, time and dpf regen cycles. Since wifey keeps hitting the fans on after parking and partial dpf regen. scenario, I thought resetting this poor oil flag could be useful. Shame they don't put it in the MFD! After a lot of hunting about I eventually found the good oil/bad oil option in section 17 combi instruments as an adaptation setting. It's probably something vcds should have reset in the SRI section?

You can get most things 'overwritten' and I can even think of ways to fool the dash warning lights without removing the lamps. The problem with diesels comes afterwards when the expensive dpf becomes clogged and useless then needs replacing, or your exhaust spews out smoke at mot and your mot tester will not under new rules release your car back to you to drive home. The same thing will happen if they spot a dpf removal or non OE approved HID conversions - so watch out!

IMHO Yes. Ideally you would have had a map file from your ECU read before taking it to the V.W stealer. Not so ideal but still doable, there are 'vanilla' generic files for your factory VIN still available on chip tuners databases and elsewhere. These have to be 'customised' with your ECU personality - VIN, Odo mileage, Immo etc. Talk to chip tuners. You either take your car to them, or send off your ECU by post. Remember, if the car goes to a VW stealer it is likely they will reflash back to EA 189 fix. The smart move may be to consider a Stage 1 tune on a generic ECU file with your ECU personality data transferred. But be careful having a tune done AFTER the EA189A mod. unless your tuner can confirm their files have been dyno checked. Most of the ready made tuning files out there were based on pre-moded engines. Talk to Alientech, they are experts selling tuning kit with online support for tuning files.

What I didn't say was my new approach to oil changes: When I was doing higher annual mileage I was using Long Life fully synthetic oils to reduce service downtime and costs. Now my annual mileage is much lower and I've switched back to standard life V.W approved oils (for dpf engines) changing oil at 6-8k. Whatever carbon deposits etc engine oils hold can get burned and end up being recirculated or passed through the dpf. The problem gets worse as engines wear. When we hear about dpf life of 100k miles, I don't think it's the actual dpf but the engine deteriation and oil burn that determines that figure, although city driving and incomplete regeneration will soon bring on failure due to clogging. When cars first got diesel engines pre-dpf, I remember my engine oil being changed every 3.5-4k miles with oil and fllter at 7-8k miles. I'm going back towards that now for these other reasons, even though oil technology and engine design has been improved.

Glad you got a good result and the TV has stayed clean for you. There were some earlier comments about the ECU mod. causing these faults, but IMHO these engines are probably well gummed up before the fix to now make them work correctly? What I find now is the frequency of the DPF regen. with local driving virtually makes this diesel engine design with mods impractical. We now know when wifey comes home and complains the fans are staying on after parking, that a regen. has started and not finished. It has become a pain to keep the engine and dpf happy by taking it for a 20 mile drive each time to avoid more problems and dpf clog. I think the dpf would complete regens for relatively short journeys if they could lower the mph whilst still getting the high temperature? We are still keeping rpm up consistently around 2k and that shouldn't be a limiting factor. I have another non-E189 earlier VAG diesel and see the dpf regens ocurring about every 200 miles and lasting up to 15 minutes. The modified Yeti seems to be similar. What's changed is my older 2007 Tdi doesn't put fans on to purge the engine bay of heat after parking and no stealer has changed the original ECU code, whereas the 2012 Yeti does. I don't know if this came along with the Yeti ECU mods or not, but I don't remember it happening when we first bought the car? My theory is all these VAG diesels have been attempting regens which were often partial and incomplete, leading to the many posts on the internet of soot and clogging. If VW had provided a cockpit indicator for dpf regen, then I suspect few would have bought their diesel cars. We have been hoodwinked! After declogging the TVA we now keep the revs up and try to complete any partial regens driving to a supermarket a bit further away. +

I've got VCDS HEX-CAN which will stay for my oil burners until I jump into the abyss for electric. However, I hear good things about OBD Eleven used on VAG cars for recode adaptations and it's cheaper than VCDS. My older HEX-CAN isn't limited to the number of vehicles like the new VCDS licenses. Although I'm a hobbyist, anything that cripples software would put me off. I see that OBDeleven is 'cloud based'. Updates aren't so important now for my older cars, but if licenses are time limited, self expiring, or need a permanent internet connection to boot up and the thing stops working when I need it, I'd be a bit annoyed.

It all gets complicated for aftermarket addons: These engines are designed to go through their dpf regen cycles using more diesel fuel and dragging down mpg. In addition you've got the always on EGR function. To get the most out of any modification (including Adblue) the ECU would need a significant patch done by people who understand and have bench tested the modded engine. That can only be the manufacturer? Once the ECU gets patched it can easily get unpatched at the Stealers and you have a modded car that may not be driveable or puts up critical warnings. I stopped at a service station the other day when a new BMW EV was at the fast charging point. I don't know what the state of charge was when it first got plugged in, but the display was showing 388V @110 amps. 75% charged and with 20 minutes left to finish. Do some sums on that and you can see that that kind of readiness using industrial charging won't be achieved from a house 13 Amp socket! Even on single phase 230V they probably won't let you charge at > 32 Amp. The conundrum for EV is you need lots of thick copper to get the source currents, bound to be 3 phase and it will cost you not in units used, but in having the peak current availability for a fast charge. If you are on a farm with plenty of 3 phase you will be ok for fast EV charging. Now the hidden Agenda for Smart meters? Why so much enthusiasm for them? Smart meters have the ability to measure peak demand and when it occurs. In future you can look forward to energy company tariffs charging according to peak demand and limiting your maxiumum supply current according to your contract. The higher your peak demand the more expensive will be your contract. That is how they (you) are going to pay for the extra copper they need to put in the streets for EV charging when everybody gets home from their commute and wants their EV fully charged to go out later.

That's what I found when I 'cleaned' our Yeti. But there's still the issue of wifey not doing the runs to complete the regen. cycles and the fans running on after parking is the tell tale sign. This never happened before the fix. Something curious to say about the earlier BMM Tdi in my other car: I'm continuously monitoring regen. activity with my analogue box where I can see every unusual blip in EG temperature. On a long cruise of 150 miles, mostly motorway, there is an elevated EG temperature every 50 miles for exactly 5 minutes. When the car is driven normally with mixed city and short distances I don't see a regen. for up to 200 miles. But when it occurs it can last 15-20 minutes. In a local driving short runs scenario I'm never going to get a complete regen. It looks as though their algorithm controls this short regen cycle when speeds are sustained, but saves up doing a full regen. for mixed stop start driving? I think what I am seeing with the older engine is what they call 'background regenerations'. When you become aware of the whole diesel regeneration issue you realise that a diesel car is not going to cope with many drivers mixed driving styles - unless they are doing regular long commutes lasting 20 minutes or more without stops.

Xylene (or Xylol) is a major constituent of some fuel additive cleaners and is much cheaper for 4.5l than buying additive brands in small bottles. It raises combustion temperature. I run a tank of petrol or diesel down to about 1/4 just as they say for the additive, add the Xylene in the ratio 400ml to 20l fuel and drive the cars over 40mph until the low fuel light comes on then fill up. Research and try at your own risk!

Get the Stealer to tell you what your dpf soot and ash load levels are? The dpf light on can be their 'lockout' scenario. If those levels or the pressure drop is too high (dpf clog) the system won't do an automatic regen for safety reasons. They should be able to tell from your ECU fault log when the dpf regens have or haven't been completed and at what mileage. If you need a new dpf they will probably kick and squeal a bit. Let us all know what you can get from the EA189 'warranty' which I thought was full of get outs.