Jump to content

2010 vrs power loss with increased audiable engine note


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've a 2010 2.0 tfsi recently purchased which has started showing a lack of power and increased engine speed.

In 2nd or 3rd gear at reasonably low speeds at say 2500 revs when gently accelerating there iis not much forward motion, the rev counter doesn't increase greatly but you ccan hear the engine speed increasing, it's as if I'm pressing my right foot down hard but I'm not.

My wife who doesn't drive asks me why I'm not changing gear, well it's not me doing this.

I've got the car booked in on weds at an Indy local to me I trust and know the usual suspect items like DV, PCV. check for boost leaks etc, I'm hoping obviously it's one of these as it would be fairly cheap, I'm also worried it could be more serious and costly like Clutch, Dmf or turbo?

Any thoughts could be helpful cheers

Clive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like clutch clip if the engine revs up but you don't actually gather speed, but you say that the rev counter doesn't increase greatly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I've thought about the clutch too, it's possible, the rev counter doesn't rise but you can hear the increase in engine speed even at 25mph between 2nd and 3rd gear it's climbing, it seems to be worse when fully warmed up if that makes any difference.

In amongst the paperwork and invoices I had from the previous owner was a receipt fir a diagnostic and code reset, it just said fault found air leak to inlet manifold and reset. No work done to rectify anything and only 40 miles on the clock prior to selling, si I presume he knew about it and lied to me when I asked if there had been any issues. This wasn't noticable on my test drive of 10 mins it drove ok, gets worse once warm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So an update on my issue.

The car has today been into a trusted indy specialist garage in Bristol for a full service, also changed DV and PCV as a precaution while it was there, they found no fault codes and had 2 people test drive the car and found no faults, they also confirmed the clutch is fine, or at least they found no play in the DMF and couldn't get it to slip.

 I collect the car and drive home to Weston-super-Mare.

Mixture of A road and M5, the car is boosting much better and I presume the change of the above items has cured the issue.

Journey home takes over an hour with no issues.

I park on the drive for 20 mins or so and pop out again, 2nd gear.....damn it's back! It's like overboost? Lack of power again. I've double checked all hoses etc and can't see anything wrong, this only happens when the car has had a good run or is really hot, but it's inconsistent, once it starts it's usually there whenever I put my foot down but just occasionally it seems ok.

How do I get the garage to test for the fault when there are no codes?

I've been reading some of the threads on sticky vanes, could this be it?

It's 8 years old but done just 45k, Im unsure how it's been driven by the 2 previous owners.

Any pointers would be welcome.

I'm booking back in soon to get the chain and tensioner done as a precaution too as I'd like to keep this a few years but need it boosting correctly.

Sorry for the gurt long drivel 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Won't be vanes as the petrol vrs uses a Wastgate and actuator. Quite a common failure oh the ihi turbo and difficult to replace unless a specialist turbo place remanufacture. 

 

But would normally produce dtc for lower boost levels..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hope it's not chain slip, I've only had the car a week, it drives fine unless I've been out in it for say 30 mins then it's not as responsive and lacks power, I've a quote today from my independent garage for changing the chain and tensioner £680

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Different engine note sounds peculiar. There are some measurings blocks in vcds testing for an indication on chain stretch / cam timing that could be helpful. You can also inspect the extension on the tensioner through a sight plug on timing cover.

 

But if its never been changed I would recommend it be changed anyway. As long as this current issue is not related to another separate significant issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers

This is my 1st vrs so unfamiliar with the engine note but had an Audi a3 8p 2.0 tfsi and that was so much more noisy and tappety.

The car is booked in again for next Thursday to investigate the fault and check if the wastegate is sticking, it's odd that the possible overboost and limp mode only occur when driven for a good while and everything is fully hot.

Then we're looking at changing the chain and tensioner too, unsure if they're related issues....hope it survives until then as i need it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The wastegate problem that can arise is often worn bushings / shaft. Which causes the wastegate to not seal well. Slack in the actautor movement operation and it does not positively close. That would normally create low boost and hesitation or lacking acceleration amongst symptoms and depending on how severe.  Good luck. Let us know Thursday's progress.. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for passing on your knowledge, it may not be this then, we'll see.

I keep going back to the invoice I found from the previous owner dated 29.03.18 where he took it to his garage to carry out a diagnostic.

It reads "fault found was air leak to inlet manifold, system reset" charged £28 no remedial work done, I presume he meant to remove this from the papers he gave me.

At the very top right corner of the air intake manifold it appears not to be completely sealed together, not sure if tthis is causing a leak orr even if itt may be runner flaps coked up?

Could these give me my symptoms? Only when fully warmed up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So quick update, full service completed including new DV, PCV, Plugs and Coil Packs too.

Indy garage have experienced the excessive boost/air intake or over revving at light throttle low speeds and tell me they can find no actual fault with the car.

It is well under power, gets worse once fully warmed up and last Saturday while waiting to get the car cleaned at Systemclenz I turned the ignition on to move the car forward a bit and there was a horrible noise, most likely the chain, I feared the worse but had to re start it and it's not done it since, nor any noise on turning off.

I'm waiting on booking in elsewhere for another opinion, Retro Resus, they're good but busy, i need to ascertain if there's any damage or can I just get the chain and tensioner changed.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I only drive a few miles each day but do need the car, only bought it on the 11th June, previous owner after another chat on the phone still claims the car has been completely fault free in the 2 years of his ownership and gets quite abusive at the suggestion that there was something wrong with the car when he sold it to me...

When driving, there is no noticable chain noise, no backfiring or popping to suggest it's possibly jumped a tooth etc, It feels wrong to me though, too high pitched, no definitive boost although it's there it seems weak and I hate turning the ignition at the moment until someone can fit me in....

I could take it back to the Indy in Bristol and get the chain and tensioner done possibly next week but I dont know if there is any damage done and would they be able to investigate this?  Cost i have no idea? Ive already spent £750 since buying the car.

And I don't know if this will cure the problem.

Retro Resus will find out but I'm looking at sometime middle of August to get booked in.

What a fine mess

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess it could be worse!  Has any one looked at the vcds measuring block for cam timing phase? A good indicator of chain stretch.

 

Have you got a basic obd that you can at least log or monitor boost levels at wot peak and sustained boost level?

 

Sounds like you need a garage with a bit more experience. But it does seem to get tricky with the ea888 series engines when they don't perform and don't throw codes. It is hard to fully diagnose without a lot of experience....

 

A number of threads on here after remaps where problems could not be solved despite deliverability issues.

 

I have to say my 2011 vRS TSI does not feel like a rocket but it feels tractable and capable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fully agree with what you say, unfortunately I myself have no way of testing and after two visits to the respected indy garage who I can't normally fault in Bristol I've got to find somewhere else who can look deeper.

The guys at Retro Resus came from TSR Performance a few years ago and are currently at Brands Hatch, I need to call again Friday when Tom is back from racing to discuss.

My car isn't mapped at the moment but had planned on stage 1, this now looks far away.

They don't open in a Saturday so will need a day off work to drop it in once they can find a slot for me, hopefully sooner than later then go from there

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.