TheClient

It depends. You have to be on your toes to counterfeit. But there are genuine and aftermarket parts on amazon and ebay. You need to take care, look at feedback, look at seller, if its a known automotive seller with time trading you are more likely to be ok. If it is too cheap, that is a warning.

Yeah. I have removed it. With a cheap tool. They don't fit great. You need to apply pressure to keep it seated properly. It is definitely clockwise to undo. Can't add much more...

Yes, inside the deep spark plug well, the girdle seals low down. Leaking oil will show on the spark plugs. Not a huge deal unless it fills the well and shorts coil packs.

It's a big job. I don't think it would be much cheaper here, even shopping around. Job could be 5-6 hours booked time. Maybe more. Because the cam cover is the upper support for the camshafts, camshaft girdle, it is quite a job. If you are keeping the car and it has done 150k km or more you may want to do the timing chain and tensioner. It will cost more but is cheaper than doing the two jobs separate. Looping back to the beginning, how bad is the leak (edit. And where is it leaking)? If it is just weeping, they can often go a good while like that. Clean off and monitor for a few weeks.

Some good replies in here already. IMO you are going to need to add a oil cooler very quickly. Those temps are not good. You could try replacing the existing oil cooler but unless it is blocked, it will make no difference. If uou monitor coolant temp with a diagnostic tool for temp 1 you will find it is increasing as well, but not as much as the oil temp. The temp guage is always BS in terms of actual temps in recent VAG vehicles!!

I'm guessing it is when stationary, idling. I've unfortunately seen this come up a couple of times on here and every time it has been without resolution.. It is a complicated oil system. With a two stage pump, regulation solenoid and a separate solenoid controlled squirter jet cct. You could try another pressure sensor, low or regular pressure if problem is at idle but in other similar threads the problem has been genuine. You could check the oil pump but otherwise it means the clearances or something else inside the engine has created a pressure drop.

Actual oil pressure is a good check. Full scan with the exact code another. As there are quite a few codes that start p164 What engine is this, is it a gen 3 ea888?

Probably / possibly behind grill or skoda emblem. You should conduct or arrnage a full module scan first, if not doing yourself, ask for diagnosis of the problem - as the ACC will de-activate with most engine faults even those you may not notice and in some cases do not turn on EML.

This is the problem with partially diagnosing on a forum. Then asking someone else to do the work. Then when it doesn't solve it, who do you turn to? I would of said, remove expansion tank, check for remnants of silicat bag with coolant emptied out. Use a light source if necessary. If there was the bag remenant, then very likely your system is blocked you will need to fully flush not just replace the heat exchanger. Its a long, long process.. did i say long, lengthy, just checking. If there was no remenant, then id probably go looking elsewhere. Like the flap motor. But your presumably unchanged tank, said mitt silikat.!! Other option, if you cant do work, is ask a garage to diagnose and fix, then they are accountable!!

I dont think you are alone. If you search the Internet for vw, audi, skoda 1.5tsi ACT vibration you will find posts. One solution is to tune it out. Im not sure it could be done in settings alone. You'd have to buy obd eleven and have a look around or do more searching, I doubt it as it would affect the type specification for economy / co2..

The coolant expansion tank with a pressure cap, vents anything in excess to a tube and vent hole on the permiter of the cap recess. It flows to the base of the reservoir and to the inner guard of the car beneath.

I dunno. It is harder if you think it has always been like this.... Tried doing a couple of 0-60 30 to 60 etc with a passenger timing. Either GPS lock speed or even with speedo error. How far off is it from review times? I had a mk2 fl with the ccza, they were 200 and it felt brisk and torquey but not a race car, but good enough to think, ok I was moving....

Im not a diesel expert and you've owned for 6 consecutive years, so have been through winters before.... Don't under estimate though, higher current draw, lights, cold starts. Does translate into more fuel. As well as that ive seen quite a few posts before about the diesel fuel composition change over winter months. So I don't have first hand knowledge of what % impact that could make and to expect. Putting all that to one side for a moment. If you want to check things, alternator, air con pulleys, check bearings not on way out. Belt tensioner as well. Lift wheels. Check for binding brakes, front and rear. Check tyre pressures. That would cover some of the physical things.

Yes, sounds like a evap system fault to me. I've not encountered mine, but they can have set rules about when to run and report on evap system check complete. So if you are not using the car much, or never fill the tank on cars gone by that can prevent the evap checks from running. A full scan may help, there may be pending. Or there maybe a function to force check evap system. It should be vacuum surely. Positive pressure should be purged to the charcoal canister.

It still gets extremely hot in southern Europe med region in summer months. But that is my gut feeling, the Christmas tree display is characteristic of an electrical issue like a weak battery. But normally this would become apparent in extreme cold, not hot...

Lots of repeated mis understanding here. All ea888 are chain. Ea888 gen 3 no exception. The real debate is to replace, preventitively or not. That is debated over past forums, you tube videos many times in past. I can speak from some personal experience as I have a golf r on 102k miles. Same base ea888 gen 3 engine design. Without taking the upper timing cover off and taking measurements, there are a few indicators you can look at. Lower timing cover inspection hole, remove count ratchet extensions on tensioner. Live data, intake and exhaust timing correction readings. The cost will differ by garage. The job is probably carded at 5.5 hours. It wouldn't surprise me the parts are now close to £700. On a gen 2, in 2016 they were about £350.... So £2k is at the top end maybe above the top end pricing.... Unless theyre doing other stuff and more than the main timing chain, guides and tensioner, gaskets and lower cover replacement..... As a base reference with similar mileage, my correlation measurements are in spec about 3degrees from memory, the ratchet is at 4 extensions showing I think. Answer, there is stretch but it is still serviceable but a replacement not a bad idea.... Ill see if I can find my photo of the extensions.. and post. Edit photos added Second edit. Live data. The bottom two are correlation adjustment. General rule of thumb 5 replace, 4 caution, 3 and under good.

Mmm gearbox mechanical or.. maybe throw out bearing. Mileage?

It will be in the front bumper area. Maybe exposed square box lower down or.. later behind grill or badge. Need a scan but perhaps the sensor needs re-aligning?

For the minimal cost, probably worth changing the primary coolant NTC sender first. There maybe a secondary but that will not usually control the display gauge.

Yes, brake pads can do that as they move in the carrrier with the change in direction. Mine on the Golf R do that on the rear. Annoying, but in my case nothing to worry about. This is with new Bosch pads as well and the old genuine items did it too. You should confirm what the noise is. Easiest way probably in a sparsely populated car park or drive get some one else to drive forward and back like when your reverse parking and be close to the front and rear wheels, you may be able to see them moving slightly or take wheel off and get some one to hold the brake pedal and try to rotate the hub. May need to put the wheel back on to get purchase. Other possibilities I suppose would be drive shafts, drop links, steering rack, tie rod ends....

Those faults are to do with the valve lift system, not variable valve timing. The fact that all 4 cylinders are reporting intermittent faults suggests to me it is not the actuator themselves. Need to check wiring looms, plugs as first step.

AfIk ina is the oem supplier. The oem and genuine part should align in design, perhaps with some delay. I,ve replaced both my electro magnets, with Ina items. About 3 or 4 years ago, at that point, the oem ina item and oem were the same form and design, with a large metal chamber and two holes. One word of caution, what exactly is your error code, as it sound more like the variable lift system rather than variable timing advance.

They'll run some dealer level diagnostics so yes, should of been all modules. But we haven't seen the results with our own eyes, also it possible something could have ben logged since. If it is a dsg fault, they're not always guaranteed to show dtc even with clear mechanical faults. Sometimes, they do, but not for everything. Possibly worth looking at some live data on the dsg like clutch pressure for example but you'd need some baselines to compare or some technical guidance. Try some googling car stalling dsg faults etc. Golf gti, golf r, audia s3 etc all have a similar engine and transmission. Is your 6sp or 7sp?

As I say this comfortably sat in the chair, no one to argue, not under the car - they aren't usually that hard, as it is usually something physical. Mind you, I've never worked on one of these diesels... Have you checked the turbo vnt acutuator moves freely? If that elbow is boost from the intercooler it will need fixing. A garage could prove the integrity of the intake cct more completely with a smoke test. Have you done a log of specified boost vs actual to see if the curve tells you anything? I.e. is it low on boost everywhere or just slow in catching up or spooling boost etc...

There's not a huge amount to go on which makes it likely quite a lot of suggestions are going to be dead ends!! When you say no error codes. Were you running a full module can for example VCDS (full version) OBD eleven..... something else? In the back of my mind I'm thinking DSG... But it is just a hunch!! Nothing more.