TheClient

Well, yes they need to be fairly parallel. Easiest way to do that is to align the bar feet with something on the car both sides. Or measure distance between two bars from both sides of roof. But doubt it would cause your lack of being able to secure the lock cams. Is there something caught up on the lever / cam of the bike racks. Need a photo of the racks t bolts when cam is released. Can you pull the bolt fully down with the cam open. what distance does it extend beyond bottom of rack. I could then compare to my rack for you. Something simple seems to be the most likely scenario but it is a bit perplexing....

Can't help really. I think ext most is external amp optical connection which sounds correct for your setup. @pab567 maybe able to help...

Possibly, what model / engine, transmission. What exact mileage? When was the previous service before this oil change service and what was it. Is the car on fixed interval or variable servicing?

Does the clip on the hose that is not seating right, need to pull all the way back past the notch to allow the pipe to be fitted in and then the clip pushed back to the tab where it belongs?

You could try disconnecting the power to vehicle again for an 1hour or more. It's a long shot though. The thing with ACC / front assist unavailable errors, is it can be the unit itself or, as I've experienced many times, any small engine fault, even where it is not noticeable driving, the car will disable assist. There is the third possibility, it is just having a hissy fit, but switching off the car always resolves hissy fits in my experience.

What fault code is it recording with the scan? Normally a temporary error that upsets front assist and acc will allow it to be used after a key cycle.

Need some photos I think of your bike carrier and maybe bar ends. With the lever cam fully open. How much t bolt is left under?

Have you lifted the end of the wing bar for access to the t profile track?

Those are the right dimensions of t bolt for thule wing bars. 2x61mm + 1 x 35mm. There are sone longer different styles bolts for the square profile bars... https://www.thule.com/en-gb/bike-rack/roof-bike-racks/thule-proride-591-_-591018

Are the springs fouling it? Take some side profiles of the t track bolt. Have you consulted thule instructions. There may be two length clamp bolts but I don't remember there definitely is. The t track would be a standard depth i would have thought. I've got a set but may take a few days to check.

Have you adjusted the lever clamp by turning. Clockwise to tighten, anti to loosen. They need to be set up when first installing and then a pretty much set.

All worthwhile trying. But it is a lot harder to identify the culprit esp in early stages these days with the integrated bearings. I had noticeable drone from a wheel. Tried loading un loading left and right sides, no difference. Jacked all wheels up, checked for deflection and spun them, couldn't tell. In the end I took it to a local garage and asked to diagnose. He struggled even with car in air, driving all 4 wheels and a stethoscope but said his best guess was nsr. He was right. I paid for the diagnosis.

Get someone to follow you is easiest solution if you don't trust what is written! 😃

Yep, I think it is a characteristic of enough vehicles that it is significant to get comments and threads but not all. But yes, I would think there is a decent chance that replacing the turbo it is possible for the replacement unit to do it....... Don't worry about it! Drive with the windows up. Get a louder exhaust or stereo!! 😉

It's a characteristic of the car!! 🫥. That's what VAG maintained for quite a while until the released the clip on the gen 2!!!

Based on what I replied here in this thread, with a photo of both turbos it won't fit! 😒...... And to me on the vid file in the attached thread, it is moving in the bushings internally as well...

It wouldn't surprise me if it did fit. They are still using an IHI turbo and it just clips over the pivot. Are you 100% sure it is the wastegate? Other sellers will be available this was the first I came accross.

On the gen 2 there was a clip you could install over the rod pivot point where the rod connects the wastegate arm. I used it on a mk2 fl. It was mildly successful. Although it only reduced the rattle and if the wastegate lever is rattling in the bushes it won't do anything. The clip "may" fit on a mk3 as well. check photos.

Yes, as @Rooted said a few more details would help. Normal things first, check tyre pressures, do wheel alignment if you have no history. Check dampers / springs. On the estates I've had, Mk2 FL and now a Golf Mk7 R both have the multi link rear, and they are pretty sure footed, mid corner bumps and alter the line a little but much improved compared to a live beam axle. Wheel alignment will affect it quite a lot on its own.

EA888 gen two? 1.8tsi? What's the engine code CDAA or CDAB? It doesn't sound good. Plugs can work loose if not properly torqued to spec through heat cycles. But it would not cause oil build up. If anything you get bore wash and misfires with eventual cylinder shut down. What do the rest of the plugs look like? Photos would help. What is the oil usage per x kms or x miles?

Ok. In the very short term I would try and reduce the Bluetooth volume on phone down from 100pc and see if it improves things. as to AA problem, I’m not sure it sounds like it may not be activated. There are two experts I know of on here on things like that, @pab567 and @langers2k. They may see this post now. You should bring up your head unit software / firmware on the infotainment screen and photo and post here…

When the phone is plugged in and you go to android auto is the an option list or settings button on the car screen that lists devices? What year is the car. Is android auto definitely activated on the mib system. Try another phone?

Mine has done something like that with android auto before. What i needed to do was plug it in, let it show reading usb or phone message or something on screen, then go to screen where it allows you to select between apple car play / aa. Then I think there is an option on that screen to select device, choose your phone and then either it should work or you select AA again.. Did you try reducing Bluetooth level BELOW 100% ?

I've got a golf R dq250 dsg I.e. 6 speed. With a jb4 tuning box. My lifetime 3 Yr average of very mixed driving is 28mpg. Long motorway keep to 70 and i can see 38mpg... I'd say you're in the range, replace airfilter and sparkplug are the only 2 things you can probably do to improve but doubt it will alter it.... Good maintenance though...

Ok. Can you turn off bluetooth and stream via phone plugged into usb a say via Android auto or apple car play. Try that with your phone and maybe another. Edit: also, if your streaming via bluetooth, what level do you have the phone volume at assuming that affects overall volume level. Try at say 75% not 100% level... Could be overdriving the input.