DashCam Installation with a Hardwire Kit on the Skoda Yeti

[GaffCelticViking]

Nextbase DUO HD Dash Cam Installation with Hardwire Kit

The final result, with the dashcam somewhat behind the rear-view mirror (out of sight, out of mind) yet clearly covering the front and rear. Cables under the trim and connected to the fuse box (12 Volt Power Adapter). I've never done anything like this before and I was somewhat hesitant connecting anything to the fuse box in case I broke anything (I'm new to all this "tinkering"). I found the instructions that came with the dashcam a little on the light side, so resorted to viewing a Youtube video on how to install a dashcam with the hardwire kit in a Skoda Octavia.

 

 

A couple of things to keep in mind ("Oops!" moments):

- Make sure the USB power connector is led through the fuse box so the cable won't be in the way. Having led the cable all the way only to realise I've made a mistake and had to start all over again.

- Lick the suction cup for a firm fit of the dashcam holder, or it'll end up in your knee mid-journey.

- Use your ice-scraper to open the fuse-box cover without damaging it. It's also handy for getting into the pillar cover too.

- I was sloppy and didn't realise I had the fuse-box diagram upside down and was about to connect the dashcam to the wrong fuse. [WRONG! Corrected 20190110] I suggest connecting it to the 12 Volt power outlet - front and rear (fuse #30) as it provides power when the ignition is turned on. [/WRONG! Corrected 20190110] +++ Use fuse #6 instead as it cuts power when the engine is off. My car battery died when using #30 as the dash-cam would continuously wake up and draw power. #6 is the rear windscreen wiper.

- Tools: ice-scraper and a torx screwdriver set to connect the ground to the fuse-box case.

 

1. Figure out which side the fuse-box is on (I erroneously thought it would be on the left side of the dashboard) and gently pry it open with the ice-scraper or a plastic spatula (not a screwdriver or any metal objects as they'll cause damage).

 

2. Identify the fuse, use the plastic tong to gently pry it loose, and plug the fuse into the fuse slot on the hardwire kit (fuse link cable for standard ATO/C fuses). Please note that #30 isn't recommended as the dash-cam will continuously draw power (the dash-cam I have). Use fuse #6 (rear windscreen wiper) instead (blue 15 Amp fuse).

 

3. Unscrew the torx screw and fasten the ground cable of the hardwire kit; fasten the screw. I ran the cable along the middle of the fuse-box to ensure the wire wouldn't get caught when placing the fuse-box cover back on. Plug the hardwire fuse connector to the fuse slot of the previously removed fuse (fuse link cable for standard ATO/C fuses). I placed the power converter/transformer and cable at the bottom of the fuse box.

 

4. I ran the USB cable from the fuse-box, ensuring the cable was on the inside and then tucked in the cable inside the roof lining. I used the ice-scraper to gently pry the pillar cover to run the cable along the inside. A fiddly job for robust fingers like mine.

 

5. I connected the USB power plug into the DashCam, after having attached the ferrite bead, and "Hey presto!" all was well.

 

Edited 10 January, 2019 by GaffCelticViking
Wrong fuse used, use #6 (rear windscreen wiper) instead of #30 (12 Volt power).

[Urrell]

I have this fuse box diagram printed off at A4 and folded up in the fuse box showing fuses the right way up.
Access to the fuse box without damage is easy with something like the key inserted into the slot in the bottom.

 

[Zeanie]

On my camera installation I put the camera at various locations on the widscreen to see how easy and what the view is like and also ease of access to control the camera etc. With my high seating position I find the main mirror block some of my view out of the windscreen and placing a camera around the mirror location just blocked a bit more of the windscreen view.

 

I found that placing it at the bottom of the screen just in front of the dashboard box on top of the dash.

 

It has a great view, the bonnet does not appear in the image, it's easy to get to (to get the SD card out) and also the wiring just pops out from the front of the box easily. Also with the camera just above the air vents it helps keep the camera cooler.