1.8 TSI (118kW) non-VRS replacement suspension

[spags]

Hi all, 

I've tried to make sure this topic hasn't been covered before on this forum board, but please forgive me if it has, has anyone ever replaced the standard OEM suspension of a MY13 Mk II Octavia (non-VRS). There are plenty on B4, B12 installs on vRS models discussed on this board, and a few replacements of 1.6L variants, but little on the bog standard, 1.8TSI 118kW model.

 

If you have done any form of non-OEM suspension replacement, are you able to share info on replacement parts and any feedback on the ride once installed. I'm not planning on replacing the standard 16" rims etc, nor looking for coil overs to drop this by 50mm etc., just purely to stiffen it up and make it handle as if it's on rails rather than the ocean.

 

Cheers,

 

[Longship]

I'm no expert, but consider uprated anti-roll bars as a first option. Do a search for "whiteline" and see what comes up. 

[spags]

Thanks mate - contacted local rep here in Aus for advice. Every performance mod I can find really relates to the vRS, which is understandable, and annoying at the same time. 

I guess that's the annoying thing of my daily drive being the family car, the wife's being a golf with much better handling, and the old man's being a barra-powered weapon! Jumping back in to mine is just depressing!

 

Cheers

 

[promethian]

Hi,

 

I replaced springs and shocks on my 1.8Tsi but I wasn't after anything special, just wanting to get rid of the wallow factor on my 7 year old MY11 Octavia 2 without compromising the comfort too much.

I also didn't want to lower the car either.

 

I achieved my aim and was really pleased with the results.

 

I did a like for like swap of springs, just to replace the tired springs with new OEM (Sach) ones.

At the same time I swapped all 4 shocks with Bilstein B4's.

(I dont think its worth just changing the shocks and keeping the old springs fitted and the B6's are just not worth it for this car.)

 

I wasnt expecting any great improvement but got it in bucket loads.

Just swapping to the B4's tightened the whole handling up, and the car was so much better at handling bumps and cornering, while still providing a comfortable ride quality.

 

Edit, be very careful ordering shock lengths correctly...

Edit Edit... best to change the mounts and bearings at same time too.

heres a thread to read 

 

 

 

Edited 26 September, 2018 by promethian

[spags]

That promethian - I did find your thread whilst searching, but in my haste, started seeing pictures of vRS and estates, and closed it off, not getting to the bottom of the thread. Thanks for the info and thread link again. I'll see where the budget pushes me as to what gets done. It'll be interesting to compare prices for components etc. here in Aus compared to Europe. Like most things, I'm sure we'll be strung heavily!

 

 

[Nuclear_Jules]

What remap have you got Promethian

Edited 27 September, 2018 by Nuclear_Jules
Typo

[promethian]

3 hours ago, Nuclear_Jules said:

What remap have you got Promethian

 

Superchips Bluefin.

 

I'm sure there was some sort of offer on when I did it. Paid £330ish

 

Basically you can not go wrong whoever you go with.

 

Pulls like a train now at 2500 to 6000 rpm

 

The 1.8 tsi engine is so open to mapping.

 

And the car is such a sleeper as no one realises...

Edited 27 September, 2018 by promethian

[Nuclear_Jules]

It will be if they stop it using truck loads of oil, I have plans to do a few jobs to it but can’t until they sort the oil consumption.

[promethian]

8 minutes ago, Nuclear_Jules said:

It will be if they stop it using truck loads of oil, I have plans to do a few jobs to it but can’t until they sort the oil consumption.

 

Awww thats sad :(

 

The previous owner of my car had a catastrophic failure of engine due to timing chain jumping.

 

So I got a MY11 car with a 2014 engine in 2016 when I bought it.

 

I do an oil/filter change every 6 months of 502/505 oil. (Best to ignore the long life 20k mile agenda rubbish)

 

If you do that, the engine will last and last....

 

Edit... Oh and I fitted a catch can to keep it nice and clean as well.

Edited 27 September, 2018 by promethian

[spags]

Which EA888 variant do you have, Gen1/2/3 out of curiosity - well that's Gen3 ain't it for 2016 engine?

Edited 28 September, 2018 by spags

[Nuclear_Jules]

It’s a CDAA Built March 2011

[promethian]

Mines a gen 2 built in late 2013

[brad1.8T]

On 26/09/2018 at 13:53, spags said:

Hi all, 

but little on the bog standard, 1.8TSI 118kW model.

 

If you have done any form of non-OEM suspension replacement, are you able to share info on replacement parts and any feedback on the ride once installed. I'm not planning on replacing the standard 16" rims etc, nor looking for coil overs to drop this by 50mm etc., just purely to stiffen it up and make it handle as if it's on rails rather than the ocean.

 

Cheers,

 

I have a 118tsi sedan.

Suspension so far...

Eibach Springs but they are for the diesel wagon, so they didn't drop that much.

Koni Sports (yellows) adjustable dampers.  They are great and give a beautiful ride but the adjustment on the rears is a pain.  I'd probably get something non-adjustable next time.

Golf GTI rear sway bar (about 4mm thicker IIRC) with the mount holes drilled shorter on the arms to stiffen it up a bit more.  I'd do it again.

Audi S3 alloy front lower control arms (1.7kg weight saving) with non-voided S3 console bushes.  Both good and I'd classify the S3 console bushes as a "must have".

Changed the steering weight using VCDS

 

Get a decent wheel alignment.

 

Other things that help with ride / traction / handling:

Dogbone engine mount insert to reduce axle tramp.

312mm brake rotors with correct 312mm caliper carriers (the caliper and brake pad are the same).

 

Keep in mind that when you upgrade the suspension the spring / damper rates won't quite match the 205/55r16 tyres any more.  You may or may not notice this but you may have to experiment with tyre pressures so that they match up better.

 

Also, the Elegance with 205/55r16 has a 10% speedometer error, so you might want to consider going to either a 205/60r16 or a 225/55r16 when you need tyres.  Personally, I think the sweet spot is a 17x7.5" or 8" with a 235/45r17.

 

Stock

 

Eibach diesel wagon springs with 225/40r18 tyres

 

Eibach and 225/50r17 (they are very big)

Edited 3 October, 2018 by brad1.8T

[spags]

Hi all, 

Been a while since I've had some sway bars installed, and this is just to provide a feedback/comment to anyone who's thinking of doing anything similar. Whiteline Racing BWK002 F&R Sway Bar vehicle kit was fitted with alignment by a suspension house in Perth WA. Around 800 for the kit, 100 full alignment and 400 for labour to do it, so all in all, not a terrible deal.

 

The car - well the bushes installed are a little squeaky and loud, but that's the bushing material. Otherwise, stiff as anything around corners, and handles like it's on rails. Fantastic purchase, upgrade and installation. Without touching the ride height this was perfect. The car is flat across corners, minor amounts of body roll 3 months down the line, but not wallowy in the least.

 

If anyone is not happy with the suspension being a complete boat, this was a good upgrade.