Well it's finally happened to my Fab. Had a dental appointment today for a wisdom tooth extraction, arrived there and parked in a side street about five mins walk away, went to lower the passenger front window, so that my mum who was with me could pull my door mirror in, and the mechanism went bang and the window fell inside the door. Had no choice but to leave the car like that and go to the dentist, good job the weather was dry. To cap it all off they'd cocked my appointment day up and I have to go back tomorrow instead but at least the car wasn't stood like that for too long. Have taped up the window until I get the parts. Had to cut some wires as I just couldn't get the plug off the door lock unit. Have soldered them back together so the car will still lock and I will need to get the plug off before I can fit a new carrier.

 

Temporarily taped up...

 

 

Edited 22 October, 20187 yr by TMB

Bad luck, however it's one of those inevitable repairs for all VW group owners, crap regulator mechanisms which always fail eventually.

Yeah, very common failure. I've always expected the driver's one to fail first as it gets the most use but maybe that one has been replaced in the past.

I've ordered a complete carrier with regulator already assembled on it. When fitting the old window motor onto the new carrier does the position of the motor cog matter or does it just sort of reset itself when the motor senses the max top and bottom travel of the window?

Edited 22 October, 20187 yr by TMB

1 hour ago, TMB said:

I've ordered a complete carrier with regulator already assembled on it. When fitting the old window motor onto the new carrier does the position of the motor cog matter or does it just sort of reset itself when the motor senses the max top and bottom travel of the window?

 

You tell it by using the full closure function by turning the key in the driver's door lock and releasing it when the window is shut.

Ah cool, cheers Sep.

Make sure you wear gloves when fitting, I cut my hands to shreds on the aftermarket carrier, i'm sure some sadist sharpens the edges at the factory!!!

 

I found it very difficult to unplug the door lock wiring as well but I cut the old carrier with tin snips to leave the wiring whole then with the old broken carrier out of the way I could get my hands inside to the lock wiring, bit easier that way.

The reason for the difficulty unplugging the door lock is because its not supposed to be disconnected with it in situ.

ErWin instructions say:

 

Install

– Insert window lifter motor on flange.

– Tighten screws for window lifter motor.

– Mount the plug connection for window lifter motor.

– Install front door trim panel

– Switch ignition on and off.

– Switch on ignition again.

– Raise window to the top up to the stop and activate the window

lifter switch for approx. a further 3 seconds. This completes

the basic setting and simultaneously activates the automatic

depth run function.

2 minutes ago, Wino said:

ErWin instructions say:

 

Install

– Insert window lifter motor on flange.

– Tighten screws for window lifter motor.

– Mount the plug connection for window lifter motor.

– Install front door trim panel

– Switch ignition on and off.

– Switch on ignition again.

– Raise window to the top up to the stop and activate the window

lifter switch for approx. a further 3 seconds. This completes

the basic setting and simultaneously activates the automatic

depth run function.

 

 

Spot on for installing the motor.

3 hours ago, Lofty said:

Make sure you wear gloves when fitting, I cut my hands to shreds on the aftermarket carrier, i'm sure some sadist sharpens the edges at the factory!!!

 

 

 

Will do, cheers for the advice

Edited 23 October, 20187 yr by TMB

1 hour ago, Wino said:

ErWin instructions say:

 

Install

– Insert window lifter motor on flange.

– Tighten screws for window lifter motor.

– Mount the plug connection for window lifter motor.

– Install front door trim panel

– Switch ignition on and off.

– Switch on ignition again.

– Raise window to the top up to the stop and activate the window

lifter switch for approx. a further 3 seconds. This completes

the basic setting and simultaneously activates the automatic

depth run function.

 

Thanks Pete

1 hour ago, Wino said:

ErWin instructions say:

 

Install

– Insert window lifter motor on flange.

– Tighten screws for window lifter motor.

– Mount the plug connection for window lifter motor.

– Install front door trim panel

– Switch ignition on and off.

– Switch on ignition again.

– Raise window to the top up to the stop and activate the window

lifter switch for approx. a further 3 seconds. This completes

the basic setting and simultaneously activates the automatic

depth run function.

 

My way works too, I used it for both passenger and drivers side basic settings after replacing the regulator cables.

31 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

My way works too, I used it for both passenger and drivers side basic settings after replacing the regulator cables.

 

I wasn't meaning to imply that it doesn't, I was just curious to see what the official instructions say, so I looked it up.

I am a bit baffled by the ignition on-off-on business but I guess there's some logic to it, maybe @Tech1e has a clue? Perhaps it puts all electronic modules into a 'look out there's some learning to do' mode?

 

 

2 minutes ago, Wino said:

 

 @Tech1e has a clue? Perhaps it puts all electronic modules into a 'look out there's some learning to do' mode?

 

 

 

Pretty much it mate, makes sure the control unit is awake and hasnt gone into rest mode.

New panel promptly arrived. Might fit it tomorrow, weather permitting.

 

All done.

 

If anyone has to do this and is struggling to get the plug off the door lock unit in situ, I found using a nail and a pair of grips got it off easily. Pull the tag downwards away from the plug. Like this, only in situ of course....

 

 

 

Edited 25 October, 20187 yr by TMB

10 hours ago, TMB said:

All done.

 

If anyone has to do this and is struggling to get the plug off the door lock unit in situ, I found using a nail and a pair of grips got it off easily. Pull the tag downwards away from the plug. Like this, only in situ of course....

 

 

 

 

When I did mine I used a small allen or torx key, something small and "L" shaped to prise the lever against the plug housing.

Of course, my overconfidence once the new rivets were in led me to knock the socket off the extension bar and into the newly sealed door.  . It's still in there!

14 hours ago, vindaloo said:

Of course, my overconfidence once the new rivets were in led me to knock the socket off the extension bar and into the newly sealed door.  . It's still in there!

 

Oh dear 

 

Thankfully my car has bolts in the ancillaries panel, and for the speaker I just used short nuts and bolts.

sorry to jump on this but my passenger side has just gone.

is it easier to replace the regulator/panel or just the regulator?

 

also, if I replace the complete panel how does it attach to the window?

 

thanks

 

Craig

9 hours ago, craigsvrs said:

sorry to jump on this but my passenger side has just gone.

is it easier to replace the regulator/panel or just the regulator?

 

also, if I replace the complete panel how does it attach to the window?

 

thanks

 

Craig

 

 

It's easier to replace the whole panel which comes with a new regulator already fitted. The window is attached by two clamps with rubber grips on them that grip the bottom of the glass. You remove the two big grommets in the top of the door and this gives access to the two clamp bolts. The window has to be moved to the correct position so that the bolts appear through the holes. Tape the glass to the door and remove the bolts. If your window is stuck in the bottom of the door you will need to drill out the four regulator pop rivets in order to get the panel off.

 

 

Edited 23 May, 20197 yr by TMB

Regulator rivets to drill out if the window is stuck in the bottom of the door...

 

so will this panel just rivet back in place?

the regulator was riveted to panel and door, will I have to re rivet above circled points to door?

hope this makes sense.

The panels are bolted to the door on about pre-2003 models but after that they are riveted. If yours is riveted you will need to drill out all of the rivets around the outside of the door panel (about ten of them). You won't have to touch the four circled rivets unless your glass is stuck in the bottom of the door.

 

Bolts or rivets...

 

 

 

Edited 23 May, 20197 yr by TMB