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Window Mechanism Failure

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I have to go out now but will be around later if you need any more help.

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  • All done.   If anyone has to do this and is struggling to get the plug off the door lock unit in situ, I found using a nail and a pair of grips got it off easily. Pull the tag downwards away

  • Pretty much it mate, makes sure the control unit is awake and hasnt gone into rest mode.

  • New panel promptly arrived. Might fit it tomorrow, weather permitting.  

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it was riveted, window was stuck down so I drilled out the other 4.

my main worry is that when you buy the complete panel, is the regulator already riveted to the panel?

if it is, do I not need to rivet it back to the door at these points?

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Looking at the image here, for example.

 

Yes the regulator mechanism is rivetted to the panel, but these four rivets aren't at points where the panel is rivetted to the door. At no point are there rivets holding regulator, carrier panel and door all together.

 

they were when I tried to take the original panel off.

I thought the replacement ones wouldn't need to be.

 

any idea what size rivets I will need to put it on with?

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19 minutes ago, craigsvrs said:

they were when I tried to take the original panel off.

Not possible.  Look at this picture from @Tech1e's guide to carrier removal.

There isn't any door metal that lines up with those four regulator rivets.

 

Window reg Tech1e.png

Edited by Wino

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Rivet part number for the ten round the edges is N91078801.

ah right, many thanks for the help

  • Author

You will need a lazy tong riveter to fit the new rivets as they are too big (6.4mm) for the usual hand gun types.

 

If fitting complete new panel, you will need to swap your door speaker onto it. The rivets for this are N90765701 (4.8mm). Or you can use short nuts and bolts as I did.

thanks for the help.

local TPS have the rivets in stock.

Possibly a little late to throw my 2p in...

 

Getting the whole panel makes the scope and time of the job more reliable when you are starting from the position of "gosh the window just broke".

 

The retaining tab on the door lock needs the aforementioned L shaped tool (or similar) and some form of yoga to insert your arm far enough to release it.... Or reinstall it.

 

I also used an axle stand to try to support the carrier when playing with the wiring, grommets and door lock plug.

Edited by vindaloo
multiple copies spawned

what L shaped tool?

oh yes, for the electric plug

just about to put new regulator on but it looks like the door lock lever/button has come off lock, does it just clip in  as it looks like plastic where lever was has snapped?

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Yeah it clips in. If the plastic has broken you can just not bother fitting the button. It doesn't affect the locking.

been trying to find a picture of lock where it clips into bur cannot find one.

I take it that if I wanted rod connected I would need a complete lock?

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Here you are...

 

s-l1600.jpg

Edited by TMB

thanks for that, that was quick. so the rod sits in the hole in the plastic?

is the curved part just a locking part to stop it coming out?

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As far as I can remember, the rod has to be inserted into the hole and then turned until it is held in place by the curved bit.
 

Quote


is the curved part just a locking part to stop it coming out?

 

 

Yep.

Edited by TMB

thanks for the info. may just leave it off.

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Just now, craigsvrs said:

thanks for the info. may just leave it off.

 

That's what I did with mine.

unfortunately I broke the power plug locking part in my haste to jam the window back up the other night when the cable snapped with the window down.

will I be ok to wrap to with insulating tape to stop the plug dropping out?

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Hmmm, I don't know. I should imagine it would be quite difficult to get into it to wrap tape around it, and looking at it here, it doesn't look like there's any room for the tape to stick to once the plug is on because pretty much the whole blue part gets covered by the plug....

 

s-l500.jpg

 

 

Edited by TMB

  • Author

The only thing I can think of is to glue the plug on with silicone or something, being careful not to get any on the contacts. Of course that will make if difficult if the plug ever has to come off again.

 

Alternatively, the plugs are available if you put part number 1J0 973 714 into ebay.

Hmm,this is interesting as I have a problem with the passenger door lock on my 6Y5.The door will not unlock with the fob but will always lock.Interestingly you can hear the motor as if it is unlocking,and also feel it but it doesn’t open.It has to be unlocked using the internal handle.Any ideas anyone ?

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5 hours ago, maccy said:

Hmm,this is interesting as I have a problem with the passenger door lock on my 6Y5.The door will not unlock with the fob but will always lock.Interestingly you can hear the motor as if it is unlocking,and also feel it but it doesn’t open.It has to be unlocked using the internal handle.Any ideas anyone ?

 

Sounds like the lock unit is faulty.

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