Hi, 

 

For me it is the rod that is broken, I'm assuming at the end as a new button didn't help. It IS ratcheting though, so I'm wondering if it is the rod I need to replace and if so where to get it as I don't know what part I'm looking for here?  OR is it a whole new handbrake? 

 

Cheers.

 

G. 

On 02/01/2024 at 19:59, hantusk said:

Thanks you so much lex131. I took your sketch, and modelled it in 3d, and printed it on my 3d printer - worked perfectly! I uploaded the 3d model here, for others to 3d print: https://www.printables.com/model/704088-handbrake-button-fix-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-202

thanks guys.

For me I had to remove 1.5mm of the tip for it to go in (last step) otherwise it would brake before it clicked in.

Could be my 3d printer tolerancing that isnt great ?

 

anyway, thanks very much, and if someone else is struggling with the 3d print try removing 1.5mm of the tip 

 

On 13/12/2019 at 22:05, lex131 said:

You cannot break it. It's a metal thing that will not come out of the handle. You have to pull it like 3-4 cm out. Mine was extremely free inside there and it's slippery also, it's a bit hard to hold on to it and keep it pulled but there is no way you could break anything. 

 

That black stick connects with the button. The spring then pushes the button outside of the lever and the button pulls on the stick and keeps that tension constantly. When the button falls, the spring has nothing to push on, the button lets go of the stick so the stick falls back into the lever. 

 

When the hand brake used to work, remember - when you wanted to release the brake you pushed on the button = you pushed the stick inside and the brake was released. Now the stick is always inside = it's like the button is always pressed so the brake doesn't work.

 

That's why you need to use one hand to pull the stick out, as far as it goes (it's not elastic or something, it's very clear when you pull exactly how far it goes, you don't need to tense your muscles or something) and with the other hand raise the brake - you should hear and feel those clicking noises and the brake should work.

 

IF IT DOESN'T then a new button won't solve anything as something else is broken inside (maybe the cable broke).

 

Have a great weekend!

 

Maybe I'm oversimplifyming this, but I've found another way to test this before repair.

 

If I put the original button back over the black bit, and use it to engage the handbrake, it stays up... so I know it's working and just a button problem.

 

There's a hole on the underside of the plastic button (as in your diagram above) suggesting that a retaining clip has broken, or similar.

On 13/12/2019 at 20:05, SirScott said:

Hi Lex131,

 

Thanks again.

 

I have ordered a new one (around 10€ delivery incl) just for backup.

 

You write that i should “pull out the black stick from inside the lever” to check the handbrake - could i pull it too far and break something or can i pull it all the way out?

 

Does the new one come with a retaining clip, or just the handbrake button itself?

 

I don't have metalwork skills nor a great deal of time this month (it's a busy work month for me) so I might just bite the bullet and pay a dealer... but I'll report back if I find another solution.

 

I've had similar failure recently and also furiously searched this forum.

 

There is a single point of failure where the plastic retaining pawl that holds the button inside the lever can break, which means the button (which is not broken) comes off, because it is under spring pressure.

 

You may think it's not much of a big deal, because maybe you think it's push to release the ratchet, and the ratchet is engaged "all the time". Well wrong, because without the button attached to the plastic pawl, it can no longer "pull" the rod mechanism forward (under spring pressure remember) and it won't engage the ratchet when you pull up. It is the inverse - the ratchet is NOT engaged by default and the spring pressure (forward pull) is required to engage the ratchet. You push the button to counteract the spring pressure thereby releasing the ratchet. Somewhat counter-intuitive.

 

This is where that driving myths of "don't press the button when pulling up the handbrake" has a sliver of truth for this engineering scenario. I come from school of using handbrake button all the time because it's quieter and I use handbrake with clutch control at junctions / slow traffic.

 

In my case, due to urgency , safety assurance, and no time to fiddle around with DIY repairs (blue tack worked temporarily), I had the handbrake lever replaced so it was pricey.

 

I asked to keep the old lever (because it's expensive!) but also so I can have a look / take photos. I will report back if there is interest.

 

In summary, yes you can replace the button only, but if the button is not broken, it will be the plastic pawl inside the lever. In my opinion the failure has a grossly disproportionate negative effect on driving safety or quality. If you do not want to DIY repair, you will have to replace the whole lever.

Edited 27 June, 20241 yr by Xenon1024
clerical clarification

On 19/06/2024 at 13:25, gon said:

thanks guys.

For me I had to remove 1.5mm of the tip for it to go in (last step) otherwise it would brake before it clicked in.

Could be my 3d printer tolerancing that isnt great ?

 

anyway, thanks very much, and if someone else is struggling with the 3d print try removing 1.5mm of the tip 

 

 

Thanks gon - I just saw your design tweak here, and updated the file already on printables per your change - glad to hear it worked for you in the end!

Edited 4 July, 20241 yr by hantusk
spelling

On 02/01/2024 at 19:59, hantusk said:

Thanks you so much lex131. I took your sketch, and modelled it in 3d, and printed it on my 3d printer - worked perfectly! I uploaded the 3d model here, for others to 3d print: https://www.printables.com/model/704088-handbrake-button-fix-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-202

Epic! What a contribution! 👌

So... I was short of time and tools, so I took it to Vindis in Cambs expecting a whole handbrake and a £300ish bill... and paid £81 for a repair. Okay, it's expensive for a button but missing work to sort it out and buy tools would have cost me more, I think.

 

Seems to work okay for now, will report back if not.

Edited 12 August, 20241 yr by thinkblueskies
Typo

Hi all

3d printed part kept braking after a few months (maybe my 3d printer is a bit crap) 

Tried to do steel bit but failed to make it fit. So in the end opted for another solution. 

 

Drilled shaft (1.5mm)

Drilled an m8 nut to 8.5mm

Drilled an m8 washer to 8.5mm

Fitted spring, then washer, then nut (as spacer) then solid cooper wire through 1.5mm hole to hold it all in place

 

System now works withou button. 

But to make it pretty butchered the inside of the button and shortened it, then added  a dab of glue inside. 

 

Zip tie end underneath is to hold button whilst glue sets.. Will pull it out once set. 

 

Let me know if yous interested in more detailed instructions. 

 

 

Edited 25 August, 20241 yr by gon

Almost 6 years later and this post is still going Happy i was able to help. P.S.  the metal contraption I made is still working by the way, no issues since the fix.

This happened to me and worse, the plastic clip (underneath the black plastic rod) snapped off, so I decided on a different approach.

Bought 16mm M2 csk stainless machine screws (though 10mm would be plenty). I drilled and countersunk the silver button (2.5mm drill plus countersink bit).

I also bought M2 nut inserts - these were harder to find and I eventually tracked some down on Ali Express. I then drilled the black plastic rod (3.2mm drill or 3mm drill if you wiggle it a bit). You can still apply the handbrake by lifting the handle and pulling out the rod at the same time. This holds it still, so it's easier to drill.

Apply the nut insert underneath the rod (this is fiddly and you may loose one or two before you can squeeze it home with some pliers)

Then apply the spring and the button and carefully screw the csk screw. You may need a tiny hex screwdriver too.

The button - with M2 screw:

The rod, with nut insert fitted:

The re-assembled hand-brake:

The nut inserts:

Edited 28 October, 202528 Oct by webweasel

My handbrake button pinged off a while ago and after buying a replacement I realised I've lost the spring that goes underneath the button... I've not had much success with trial and error trying various springs - does anyone know what size the spring is that normally sits behind the button?