Hi All,

 

Been searching around the forum but could not find what I was after, I’m looking for the standard speaker sizes for the Octavia - also the layout would be good... I know there are at least 4 main speakers and 4 tweeters (one of each in each door), are there more? I don’t think so, but just to check. 

 

Also if anyone can recommend some good bass enhancing speakers that would be great.

 

.... I know that adding an amp and sub etc. will give me the best sound, but right now I cannot be bothered to go through the wiring etc. (Done it on previous cars) so just some nice decent high end speakers would be nice.

 

Thanks!

Matt

165mm, so standard 6.5" comps.

 

 - Bret

13 hours ago, brettikivi said:

165mm, so standard 6.5" comps.

 

 - Bret

Hi Bret,

 

Thank you for your response, are both the front and rears 165mm? Or are the rears smaller?

 

Matt

they are both 6.5" and the components in the front are 1" tweeters

 

i have a thread about upgrading the system using the factory radio. I havent got to replacing the door speakers yet as the weather is too bad outside atm.

 

 

if you want to replace the speakers you will need speaker rings, you can get the VW/skoda ones in halfords which come with the factory adapter so you dont need to modify the loom if you are just replacing the speakers. They act as a stand off as theres an inch between the speaker and the door...

 

these fit for 6.5", they are autoleads which is owned by Stinger, so the quality is good.

 

https://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/head-unit-accessories/autoleads-speaker-adaptor-kit-vw-golf

Edited 29 January, 20197 yr by JohnnyType2

There is a thread over on the ICE forum that describes how to remove the door cards to get to the speakers. Try doing a search. Good luck.

7 hours ago, TDIum said:

There is a thread over on the ICE forum that describes how to remove the door cards to get to the speakers. Try doing a search. Good luck.

 

when the weather improves ill post a video.

On 29/01/2019 at 10:41, JohnnyType2 said:

if you want to replace the speakers you will need speaker rings, you can get the VW/skoda ones in halfords which come with the factory adapter so you dont need to modify the loom if you are just replacing the speakers. They act as a stand off as theres an inch between the speaker and the door...

 

these fit for 6.5", they are autoleads which is owned by Stinger, so the quality is good.

 

https://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/head-unit-accessories/autoleads-speaker-adaptor-kit-vw-golf

 

Hi Johnny, 

 

Thank you for the link, extremely useful! And would appreciate a video if you get chance

 

Cheers

Matt

9 hours ago, TDIum said:

There is a thread over on the ICE forum that describes how to remove the door cards to get to the speakers. Try doing a search. Good luck.

 

Thanks, I did take a look and it doesn’t seem too difficult

Just a follow up on this - those speaker adaptors from Halfords, did they fit with the Octy? I see they're listed as Golf adaptors.

 

Did you notice much of an improvement just upgrading the speakers as opposed to the head unit/installing an amp? 

 

Cheers! 

It’s easy to remove the door cards, just takes a few minutes.

 

The main thing is a plastic locking nut at the bottom of the door in the middle; look up from underneath and you’ll see it. It just needs a half turn and then you can start popping the clips.

 

I’ve started Dynamatting in preparation for an Audio-tec Fischer Match system: https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en

 

I’ve done the Dynammatting in stages, with bonnet, boot floor, spare wheel well, tailgate, under rear seat & front doors done so far...rear doors and quarter panels (thanks Sasha!), hopefully completing the job this weekend.

 

Just doing the front doors last weekend has made a massive difference to the crappy standard system, so worth spending the time to do if you’re going to upgrade the speakers.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Cheers,

 

Nick

 

Edited 28 March, 20206 yr by Cubbington

HI, for what it's worth I upgraded my front speakers with JBL comps on a 2013 VRS with the standard columbus MIB1 head unit fitted  (no canton) and they made zero difference, in fact it lost bass. The standard head unit is not powerful enough to power upgraded speakers, I ended up putting the old ones back in. 

 

Check the forum for instructions but I fitted the kenwood underseat subwoofer and the difference is fantastic, this provides the bass you are missing.

 

Ady 

 

 

 

 

Thanks masonic. 

 

I'm a bit of a noob at ICE, but am I right in thinking an amp combined with aftermarket speakers, run off the stock headunit would overcome the issues with the head unit's limited power? 

 

I'm looking into an underseat sub as well, but I'm looking for some more clarity in the sound as well. Woefully underimpressed with the stock system at the moment. 

 

Cheers 

Same here hence why I went for the simple underseat option but yes a seperate amp is what you will need, again plenty of instructions on the forum.  Try the kenwood sub first you might be pleasantly surprised.

 

Ady 

 

 

 

 

On 28/03/2020 at 19:40, masonic said:

HI, for what it's worth I upgraded my front speakers with JBL comps on a 2013 VRS with the standard columbus MIB1 head unit fitted  (no canton) and they made zero difference, in fact it lost bass. The standard head unit is not powerful enough to power upgraded speakers, I ended up putting the old ones back in. 

 

Check the forum for instructions but I fitted the kenwood underseat subwoofer and the difference is fantastic, this provides the bass you are missing.

 

Ady 

 

 

 

 

The on board amplifier is more than powerful to drive car speakers. They are not a big driver or coil. The main issue is that they need to be run in for about 50 listening hours minimum like home audio equipment to sound there best. The bass is there it just isnt wooly sounding like you get from paper cones etc. I for one think the standard Canton system does a good job for what it costs. The main issue nowadays is quality of the music. Most music is massively compressed and sound awful. They are aslo mixed at different levels. Unlike movies and cinema that have a reference level to mix at. Music is mixed as what ever level the sound engineer decides it is to be recorded at. Like DAB it is compressed and you get a flat sound. FM still sounds richer and more fuller in comparison. I miss being able to put a cd in my car as it does not have one and I have to use Spotify to stream music on. 

In my 2015 vRS, I thought the Canton was a bit underwhelming at first. But as years have gone by, I come to a similar conclusion. It's not bad, it's not mindblowingly awesome either, but it is very dependent on the quality of the recording - and not talking just file formats or kbps - because songs of the same format and kbps can differ greatly in quality. I guess it's hard to 'measure', but I do find that for songs that have been recorded well, they sound good through the PC, and sound good in the car. I do generally agree with the consensus that the Canton is lacking a bit of bass though, but I can live with it. 

also: sound will be worse at colder temperatures because the drivers use materials which will be stiffer when colder. 

 

 - Bret

On 29/03/2020 at 19:57, masonic said:

Same here hence why I went for the simple underseat option but yes a seperate amp is what you will need, again plenty of instructions on the forum.  Try the kenwood sub first you might be pleasantly surprised.

 

Ady 

 

 

 

 

Ady - cheers for the advice. Just ordered the Kenwood sub at a decent price. Hopefully arriving in 2-3 days. I've also ordered some fuse taps, after looking at the forum. Looks like I'll need to piggyback onto a permanent live to power the sub, and then another fuse which will tell it only to draw power when the ignition is on. Am I right?

You dont happen to have any pictures of the fuses you tapped into do you? Or is there something on the back of the head unit that you tap into for the ignition signal instead? 

 

Thanks for the advice.

Tom 

HI Tom

 

I used this guide 

it was excellent and used the wire loom as described, much easier to solder the speaker wires out of the car. I couldn't find a way through the bulkhead for a permanent live to the battery so I used ignition lives for both and piggy backed of fuses (used a 12v tester) then placed the remote in the glovebox. I recall removing the passenger seat/underseat storage and going below the carpet and under the plastic sill trim, there is an earthing point there also (under the glove box). Pulling the stereo out gives enough room to for the harness to be disconnected and fit the new. Velcro on the underside of the speaker keeps it secure.

 

Good luck

Edited 30 March, 20206 yr by masonic