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vRS Heated leather seat retrofit


Wangarai

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The back rest is a lot harder but still easy enough for a diy'er.

 

You need to remive the lumbar handle and rotating handle. These just pull off, however the rotaing one has 4 retaining lugs. Once again i just used a trim tool to help unclip these and avoid damage.

Once off remove the side plastics, held on with The little pin clips. Push pin in with small screwdriver or pliers then remove the clips.

 

With regards to the cover, you have to start by unclipping the two sections of cover that join at the base. It is basically a big U grooved bit of plastic, with another folded bit of plastic inside it. Pry it apart at one end and start running a trim tool along it. It will pop open easy enough, but does need encouragement so don't be afraid to use a bit of force. Just make sure the tool you use doesn't pierce the cover above.

 

Once it is apart you have ti very carefully start turning the cover inside out, it is tight, so i found it best to push on the side bolsters to provide a bit of play. Obviously you need to do a bit at a time on each side to keep it level and prevent the stitching getting damaged. 

 

There are 3 hog ties each side on the lower section of the back rest. They are tighter than the base ones so you have to be careful.

 

Once the first one is undone on each side, you need to carefully roll the cover up and over the the lumbar handle. Then you can get to the next hog tie. 

 

Once all three are off it will look like thisScreenshot_20240312_211555_Gallery.thumb.jpg.2f03cd7076990185e78405a1e68ea21e.jpg

 

Now there is another rail with the v groove plastic clips. This one can't be slid out sideways, so you have to use a trim tool or a flat head screwdriver to gently pry the clip apart.

 

Screenshot_20240312_211841_Gallery.thumb.jpg.dce62200e5ed2b1d8cdf58aa389b8696.jpg

 

 

Start on one side and then you can twist to cover rail and it will pop out of the clip.

 

Now on the rear of the seat you will find that it is attached by two hook on elastic.

Screenshot_20240312_202222_Gallery.thumb.jpg.a57507dc3289b799d40d81f07f182106.jpgScreenshot_20240312_202218_Gallery.thumb.jpg.c7477e0dbc58af04333631e9e8a491c3.jpg

 

They hook into a slot by the spring. If your hands are small enough you can just use your fingers to unhook them, if not you will need Long nsoe pliers.

 

Now on the back is a little foam coverz this hides the lumbar adjustment etc.

 

It is held on by two hog ties. I didn't take a picture zoomed put,  but you get the idea.Screenshot_20240312_202214_Gallery.thumb.jpg.c8c59510e9cfe5fab493fd0db023b67a.jpg

 

Once these are removed th cover will come away. You are then left with a blue bar that is slotted through the cover and hooks either side of the lumbar frame.

Screenshot_20240312_202210_Gallery.thumb.jpg.1c732217add1a6bf294ba7ac6d4c4780.jpg

 

You need to unhook this. It takes some doing, but I used pliers to flex the spring frame and then unhooked one side. The other is then easy.

 

Once off you will be able to loft the rest of the cover up to the point of the head rest.

 

Screenshot_20240312_212743_Gallery.thumb.jpg.575805bdbf82ee0ad947d0c3a8c23121.jpg

 

This is as far as it needs to be removed for the heated pass to be added. However if you want to remove the resr it appears to be held on by another 3 hog ties.

 

Screenshot_20240312_212946_Gallery.thumb.jpg.bac889e82a318680b331faddfb6dc66b.jpg

Edited by STU3Y
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Now add the heat pads. Start at the top. You will have to hold the cover out of the way slightly but it's easy enough and will end up like this. Again make sure you push the joins into the grooves to prevent them breaking. Screenshot_20240312_213414_Gallery.thumb.jpg.eef559508638ea66100cacb461e6fef6.jpg

Screenshot_20240312_213616_Gallery.thumb.jpg.4adabe95f2b0ed97e7a67bed847d8d13.jpgScreenshot_20240312_213636_Gallery.thumb.jpg.eb414fe3422dd32a5f447a5bcdb54366.jpgScreenshot_20240312_213650_Gallery.thumb.jpg.40026993c63140897a59c9837d605a38.jpg

 

Having done this, start sliding the cover back down again. Take your time and do a little bit each side to keep it level. Again push on the bolsters yo make this easier. I won't list the instructions as it is the reverse of removal.

 

The wiring for this is pushed out at the base. You will see a loom already to one side. I just ran my beside this.

 

Once both parts are now fitted with the covers, start by installing the base first. Get this in place and hook the covers together and over the frame. Run the new plug/loom throigh the hoke in the base that already had wires in it. Then cabke tie it to the rest of the seat loom.

Reassemble the two parts of the frame and bolt them together. Plug the two looms together using the new kufatec seat harness, and then reinstall all plastics and handles and you are good to go.

 

No one will even notice the cover was offScreenshot_20240312_214328_Gallery.thumb.jpg.e30eaa34001ca7fb676009639e86aae5.jpg

 

Reinstall the seats in the car, carry out the coding and enjoy the warm bum!

 

Hope this helps someone, and sorry for hijacking the thread, but thought it best to have all the info in one place.

 

In total it cost me £378

 

I used the following:

1. Used climate control panel with heated seat buttons.  (Ebay) - 5E0907044AQ 

2. Kufatec car harness for heated seat item 43340

3. Kufatec heated seat looms, item 49047

4. Skoda heated back rest pads x 2 - 5E0963557S

5. Skoda heated cushion pads x 2- 5E0963555N

6. Obdeleven for coding

 

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These are the temperatures i used to set heat levels. 

 

I duplicated the settings in all the ones set to 0.

 

Screenshot_20240312_215547_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.d1580b6155b03ab3fda470505a8262e9.jpg

 

 

Edited by STU3Y
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As it stands, all appears to be working fine, however I have one fault code. I am yet to investigate this Screenshot_20240312_192900_OBDeleven.thumb.jpg.c69ba0b472dc54dce266079562151dc3.jpg

 

i have read the following but not tried it yet

 

Screenshot_20240312_201102_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.f2a296ba0c74bf809ff160b37acd13e5.jpg

 

Anyone got any ideas in this. As far as i know all wiring was fine and, the cables were connected to the factory earth points in the door trims. 

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Apologies for all the typos, I did this on my phone, and didn't notice them when submitting. As you know you can only edit if you are quick and by the time I had written then next post it was too late.

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10 hours ago, STU3Y said:

As it stands, all appears to be working fine, however I have one fault code. I am yet to investigate this Screenshot_20240312_192900_OBDeleven.thumb.jpg.c69ba0b472dc54dce266079562151dc3.jpg

 

i have read the following but not tried it yet

 

Screenshot_20240312_201102_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.f2a296ba0c74bf809ff160b37acd13e5.jpg

 

Anyone got any ideas in this. As far as i know all wiring was fine and, the cables were connected to the factory earth points in the door trims. 

So changed the coding as above to not installed, and the fault code is now gone and isn't coming back. Not sure exactly what the setting is for, Google suggests it's an un networked heating module. Either way it has solved the problem.

 

The heated seats are fantastic. If anything probably too hot on top setting.

 

Can anyone that has them fitted as standard, put up the factory heat levels?

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