Skoda Octavia VRS STI 162KW Stalling intermittently and occasional lump idle.

[Kimberkid]

Hi All 

 

I am the second owner of a 2014 skoda octavia vrs its done 135,000km and it has started stalling on the odd occasion, when doing short short trips at low speeds generally in the mornings. It seem to happen if i am  waiting in traffic or coming to an intersection or turning in to a parking building etc.  The dash will say start manually. This is not the Auto stop function that is annoying more that any thing else. And I normally just turn this off.  It will also occasionlly  have  a  really lumpy idle and vibration that to me sounds like it not firing on all cylinders. I keep regular services about 15,000 km max, Its has new coil packs and spark plugs  after I got it.  I am wondering if any one else has had these issues and what sorted it for you guys. 

 

I took it to a local euro car mechanic and I got them to run the diagnostic tool. It brought up a couple of codes P001600 -Crank shaft position -Camshaft position  Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A  & P001100 A camshaft Position Bank 1 Timing over advanced or System Performance.

 

Both of these issues appear to be a major and point to a stretched timing chain. The mechanic has suggested that the timing chain maybe stretched and that i should get it done asap... this is going to be a $2000 job.
I have found that a faulty VVT Valve Sensor could also trip the codes mentioned above. 

 

The Skoda dealership that I rang for a second opinion dont think it is a chain issue but they want to chard $160  just to run the diagnostic again. Im pretty sure they will get the same codes ?

 

So I dont know what to now . Do I go ahead with the timing chain works?  or should I replaced the VVT Sensor ? or GOt to the Skoda dealership

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

 

 

[cheezemonkhai]

I think that engine had a chain tensioner that failed. Maybe check the tensioner.

 

question would be how much is it to do the sensor? If less than £160 the dealer charges for diagnostic and you’re no worse off if you do it and see if that fixes it before the chain.

[Kimberkid]

Cheers I will look in to it further probably going to look at the Variable Timing valve would the audi /vw engine be the same as skoda ? I cant find any Workshop diagrams or schematics any where, Does any one know where to find them ? 

 

[LordGoddard]

Hi,
I have the same issue, and the same codes. What was the fault?

[Bingodalton]

The problem will be a camshaft adjuster magnet/solenoid on intake camshaft.

 

If you have vcds take a loot at values of Camshaft adjustment intake bank 1, specified and actual. When warm specified should be around 15 on idle and actual not more than +/-2 difference.

You can check exhaust one too, but while driving, as they are 0 on idle.

 

Error is connected with failed part costing 30-60. Eventually could be camshaft valve, but I would start from this one. It is problably stuck or failed.

It is easy to replace by urself, just 3 screws.

[jimbojames]

Just started getting this exact issue as well. @Bingodalton where is the cam shaft sensor located? I'm assuming one end of one of the cams? 

[jimbojames]

Checked with my OBD11, and found the 'camshaft adjustment, intake bank 1, specified value' and '... actual value' did not match. At idle was asking for 10° but bouncing around 40°.

 

Took both the cam angle sensors off to check part numbers etc, and found the rear one (which must be inlet) had oil filling the electrical connector. I don't think that would be beneficial to the operation! 

 

I cleaned the oil out, and sure enough, no more issues, but I've ordered a new one anyway, as the seal is allowing oil into the connector - £42 from dealers. 

 

Part number is 06L 109 259A for anyone else. 

 

The sensors are located at the top left of the engine as you look at it, just below the oil fill and dipstick. 3 x T30 screws holding each in. 

[Bingodalton]

Rear one is outlet, closer one is inlet.

But I am glad it is better, that there is difference.

They are the same.

[jimbojames]

So I've had this issue again with the same sensor, again with oil in the plug. I cleaned it out, and it was fine again.

I thought it might be me being messy topping up the oil, so I made sure to use a funnel carefully ever since, but after a few months, same again, oil in the plug. 

I'm wondering how this might be getting in there, perhaps some oil gallery wearing on the cam, allowing the oil to get into the sensor... I'm certainly not going to strip the cam down for that though, as I have two sensors now, so I just swap it, then clean it out ready for the next time it. 

 

[creamvRS]

On 20/12/2021 at 15:00, jimbojames said:

Checked with my OBD11, and found the 'camshaft adjustment, intake bank 1, specified value' and '... actual value' did not match. At idle was asking for 10° but bouncing around 40°.

 

Took both the cam angle sensors off to check part numbers etc, and found the rear one (which must be inlet) had oil filling the electrical connector. I don't think that would be beneficial to the operation! 

 

I cleaned the oil out, and sure enough, no more issues, but I've ordered a new one anyway, as the seal is allowing oil into the connector - £42 from dealers. 

 

Part number is 06L 109 259A for anyone else. 

 

The sensors are located at the top left of the engine as you look at it, just below the oil fill and dipstick. 3 x T30 screws holding each in. 

I've recently been having lumpy, stalling issues within the first 5 mins of driving then it seems to disappear.

I've noticed this oil in the rear sensor so I've given it a quick wipe to see how we go - I feel some braking (DSG) affects the lumpiness when it starts so wonder if I also have a vacuum leak.