New pads and rotors not making full contact.

[Isitme]

Hello,

 

I recently installed new brake pads and rotors, but now i noticed that inner part of the rotor is getting rusty. After driving and trying harder braking and hand brake the inner part of the rotors looks like in the picture below.

 

During my install process i:

*Reassembled the caliper piston and it was moving as it should.

*Cleaned and greased the guiding pins

*Cleaned the pad resting sliders (No idea how they are called). But they were quite rusty so i should probably look into it more.

*Bled the brakes.

 

I looked in google and in the forum, but mostly people suggest the guiding pins, but i feel they should be moving freely enough.

 

I hope that you can help to guide me to the issue that could cause this kind of symptoms.

 

[xman]

Are those new rotors? They look pretty old on that pic.

 

What make are the pads/rotors and where did you buy them?

 

Did you unbolt and remove the carrier? It may not be back on square, perhaps some dirt trapped between carrier and hub. Or the carrier bolts not correctly tightened. (Note I am talking about the carrier and NOT the caliper)

[Black vRS Oct]

Were the sliders totally clean? I have to use a fine grit sand paper to get mine back to metal. Also don't use a copper grease use Cera tec. Copper is too gummy in my opinion. But if the sliders are free, it might be a sticking piston. But to be honest that disc looks at least a year old if not more but I see fresh copper grease on the shoulder of the pads? Have you put new pads on old rotors??

Edited 24 March, 2019 by Black vRS Oct

[CWARD]

@Isitme I assume that is just a picture that has similar disc wear to your own as the caliper style doesn’t look like Octavia ones. If that’s the case can we have a picture of your actual disc and caliper. 

 

Check the back of the disc and if you’re getting opposite wear pattern with the outer most rusting or not wearing as much then check you’ve correctly torqued up the both the pad carrier to hub and caliper to pad carrier. 

Also make sure the tabs on the pads aren’t too tight in the pad carrier. Sometimes the pad backing metal aren’t cut perfect and leave a burred edge which makes the fit too tight and acts like a binding caliper. Just use a file to remove any edges and refitted the should go in without forcing. 

 

 

 

[Isitme]

Hello,

And thank you both for your suggestions.

 

36 minutes ago, Black vRS Oct said:

Were the sliders totally clean? I have to use a fine grit sand paper to get mine back to metal. Also don't use a copper grease use Cera tec. Copper is too gummy in my opinion. But if the sliders are free, it might be a sticking piston. But to be honest that disc looks at least a year old if not more but I see fresh copper grease on the shoulder of the pads? Have you put new pads on old rotors??

The sliders were not totally clean. I did scrape them with screwdriver, but i could probably do a better job at cleaning them and maybe installing the metal sheets that came with pads.

As for the piston, i got it out, cleaned and reinstalled. It was moving quite good and felt okay.

38 minutes ago, xman said:

Are those new rotors? They look pretty old on that pic.

 

What make are the pads/rotors and where did you buy them?

 

Did you unbolt and remove the carrier? It may not be back on square, perhaps some dirt trapped between carrier and hub. Or the carrier bolts not correctly tightened. (Note I am talking about the carrier and NOT the caliper)

The Rotors in the picture are not my case. This is just an example i found. My rotors and pads are just freshly purchased.

The rotors are  FREMAX and Pads are Bosch.

I did not remove the carrier. Just removed the caliper and cleaned the Guide Pins.

[Isitme]

4 minutes ago, CWARD said:

@Isitme I assume that is just a picture that has similar disc wear to your own as the caliper style doesn’t look like Octavia ones. If that’s the case can we have a picture of your actual disc and caliper. 

 

Check the back of the disc and if you’re getting opposite wear pattern with the outer most rusting or not wearing as much then check you’ve correctly torqued up the both the pad carrier to hub and caliper to pad carrier. 

Also make sure the tabs on the pads aren’t too tight in the pad carrier. Sometimes the pad backing metal aren’t cut perfect and leave a burred edge which makes the fit too tight and acts like a binding caliper. Just use a file to remove any edges and refitted the should go in without forcing. 

 

 

 

Thank you for your suggestion.

 

That is indeed an example picture. For my case is a new rotors and pad, but looks exactly the same as on the picture for the rust spots, like some water droplets but is not rubbing off from breaking.

 

I will try to see the other side and most importantly clean the pad carrier more.

 

But as for the pad carrier, shouldn't it affect it the other way around? The Top not touching and only the mid of the rotor contacting the rotor?

[CWARD]

6 minutes ago, Isitme said:

Thank you for your suggestion.

 

That is indeed an example picture. For my case is a new rotors and pad, but looks exactly the same as on the picture for the rust spots, like some water droplets but is not rubbing off from breaking.

 

I will try to see the other side and most importantly clean the pad carrier more.

 

But as for the pad carrier, shouldn't it affect it the other way around? The Top not touching and only the mid of the rotor contacting the rotor?

 

From what your saying it’s the pads that are binding in the carriers so clean up the pad carrier sliding surface with a wire brush and apply copper grease or better still Ceratec. 

Your previous post mentioned metals sheets which are either the anti rattle shims or the anti-squeal pads. 

Make sure the caliper bolts are torqued up correctly remember you’ll need a spanner to hold the pins to stop them rotating as you tighten the bolts. 

[Isitme]

10 minutes ago, CWARD said:

 

From what your saying it’s the pads that are binding in the carriers so clean up the pad carrier sliding surface with a wire brush and apply copper grease or better still Ceratec. 

Your previous post mentioned metals sheets which are either the anti rattle shims or the anti-squeal pads. 

Make sure the caliper bolts are torqued up correctly remember you’ll need a spanner to hold the pins to stop them rotating as you tighten the bolts. 

Okay. Thank you! I will try to do that and see if that helps.

As for the caliper, i did torque it down until it looked like it moved in place, while holding the pin with a spanner.

[CWARD]

The caliper bolts isn’t high torque 35-40nm iirc unlike the pad carrier so you’ve probably got them tight enough. 

[Black vRS Oct]

Did you actually take the piston out of the caliper?

[Isitme]

1 minute ago, Black vRS Oct said:

Did you actually take the piston out of the caliper?

Yes i did. It was stuck because of the internals were bad because bad retention clip.