Hi all, 

I'm going to make some brake lines and have been doing a bit of reading and would like to get some peoples opinions. What kind of flares does everyone use when making brake lines? Are double flares acceptable or is a bubble flare better? Does it depend on the fitting they're connecting into? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks. 

A male end is one part process and a female is a two part, first male then female.

 

Copper nickel pipe is preferable over copper.

So what type of flare is that? I haven't made brake pipes before and I'm reading up on it, people use the names of flares, they don't just say male or female, could you please clarify what you mean? Do you mean a double flare? I've read that in America they use double flares but in Europe a bubble flare is the most common. Can anyone point me in the right direction. The flaring tool I've seen to do pipes in situ either do one kind or the other. Is there a kit anyone can recommend or can anyone who makes there own pipes advise me on the type of flares they use? 

Been decades since I used to make these on an all too regular basis (the days of rotboxes) but one is for the male fitting and the other for the female.

 

So if you were for instance making a joint in an existing pipe, then the male nut would have I believe the single flare like a bell end and the female nut would have the double flare.

 

The single male flare would be used where a male nut fitting goes into the female threaded hole in a wheel or master cylinder, the double flare would be used where a female nut fitting connects to the male end of a flexible brake hose.

 

I may have got the single and double reversed, they are made as already described, a double is 2 stages the first being the forming of the single flare.

As previously stated a male single and a female double flare would be used depending on what is being connected.

 

If you have the coupling nuts, pipe and flaring tool just replace like for like. Ensure you have the correct nuts, it's not ideal but you can reuse the old ones. Remember to put them on the pipe before you flare it!

 

I've heard some people form the first male flare using the flat side of the tool for a more OE look, I've found this to provide bad seating/leaks so I'd recommend using the concave side of the tool at all times. When securing the fitting you will feel resistance as you tighten and the male bubble deforms and seats properly until a positive stop is reached, do not overtighten. The female flare does not have much give upon fitting so expect less if any mush before a positive stop is felt. Check all work for leaks after several full brake applications with engine running.

 

YouTube will give you pointers.

A single flare has been mentioned but everything I've read and watched said not to use a single flare on a high pressure system like a braking system as theyre not strong enough? 

So when you're saying male flare are you meaning a bubble flare? Has anyone got pictures of what you mean, the terminology being used is completely different to everything I've read and watched. 

As I understand it, that's the single, bubble and double flare, are you saying the single is female and the bubble is male? 

I did some pipe flaring not long since and used double flare and coupling nuts. It’s a simple process and you don’t need to over think it. You only need two tools, one for flaring the pipe and the other to cut it. 

I highly recommend the Draper 23312 pipe flaring tool. It’s as simple as turning a spanner. Open the two nuts on the side of the tool so can slide the pipe in until it meets the stop and clamp tight again. Insert the die, one end single and the other double flare, tighten until it bottoms out. That simply. It’s also compact so you can use it in the car too in confined spaces and still get perfect results. 

https://www.drapertools.com/product/23312/Hand-Held-Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-(3-16inch-SAE)#!manuals

You will also need a good mini pipe cutter such as this. 

Silverline MS125 Mini Tube Cutter 3-22 mm https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000LFVCKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_NZlPCbFNS2S7G

The is easy to bend and you don’t need a specific tool as you can a can of beans and such like to get the radius you require. 

Along with the measure twice and cut once piece of advice I can add to make sure you have the adapters on the pipe in the correct orientation and order before you flare the pipe ends. 

Take your time, plan what your doing and when you’re finished don’t forget the obligatory standing with your hands on hips admiring a job well done. 

51 minutes ago, Octy-noob said:

As I understand it, that's the single, bubble and double flare, are you saying the single is female and the bubble is male? 

 

From when I made them with my now 40 year old Sykes Pickavant flaring tool:

 

The middle one I call male and a single flare and would be used with a male threaded tube  nut.

 

The one on the right is what my machine would produce by reversing the punch and doing a double flare hence I call it double flare and female, would be used with a female threaded tube nut.

 

With my tool I have never made one resembling the one on the left, perhaps the modern tools do that, I have never had a problem with leaking or burst fittings so dont know where the strength thing comes into the picture, perhaps is to do with the modern generation of tools and the left hand photo.

46 minutes ago, CWARD said:

I highly recommend the Draper 23312 pipe flaring tool. It’s as simple as turning a spanner. Open the two nuts on the side of the tool so can slide the pipe in until it meets the stop and clamp tight again. Insert the die, one end single and the other double flare, tighten until it bottoms out. That simply. It’s also compact so you can use it in the car too in confined spaces and still get perfect results. 

https://www.drapertools.com/product/23312/Hand-Held-Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-(3-16inch-SAE)#!manuals

I have been looking at one pretty much the same as this, I will need the male bubble flare for the fittings that I'm doing, there is a tool like this that does them, I need to connect into the master cylinder using male thread nuts. Or can you do both the female double flare and the male bubble flare with that one tool? 

I can bend and cut the pipe, I've used microbore copper before it's just the flaring that I haven't done before. 

The flare only gives a uniform end to the pipe so that it creates a flat surface that is compressed between the adapter or in your case the male adapter and female master cylinder.  The flare end of the pipe effectively becomes a crush washer in the joint. 

I assume you’re looking at the Vintage 65 version as you will see pics either flare will create the seal. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held-On-Car-Brake-Pipe-Line-Flaring-4-75-DIN-ISO-3-16-Double-Bubble-/282619615626

The inside of the ports on the master cylinder on VW should look like this and that tool will make the correct flares for it and any other adapters you may need to use. 

 

The double is what is used n the female ports with a raised center usually found on older BMW's and some high end cars due to the slightly more expensive production costs. 

 

 

Edited 3 April, 20197 yr by CWARD

7 minutes ago, CWARD said:

The flare only gives a uniform end to the pipe so that it creates a flat surface that is compressed between the adapter or in your case the male adapter and female master cylinder.  The flare end of the pipe effectively becomes a crush washer in the joint. 

I assume you’re looking at the Vintage 65 version as you will see pics either flare will create the seal. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held-On-Car-Brake-Pipe-Line-Flaring-4-75-DIN-ISO-3-16-Double-Bubble-/282619615626

The inside of the ports on the master cylinder on VW should look like this and that tool will make the correct flares for it and any other adapters you may need to use. 

Yes that's the one I was looking at, along with the draper one you suggested. I'll get one ordered, thank you for putting me on the right track. I assume the fittings are a standard size for the brake pipes? 

I believe they’re pretty much standard now but if you’re getting the tool off eBay then they do the adapters too so might be best to contact them and make sure you have everything you need. 

6 minutes ago, CWARD said:

I believe they’re pretty much standard now but if you’re getting the tool off eBay then they do the adapters too so might be best to contact them and make sure you have everything you need. 

Sorry I meant the nuts and threads, are they all a standard size for the size of the pipe? 

Yes, should all be 3/16 pipe and 10mm with fine thread

Edited 3 April, 20197 yr by CWARD

2 hours ago, CWARD said:

Yes, should all be 3/16 pipe and 10mm with fine thread

That's great, thanks for your help