Hi Folk.

 

My ABS light & Traction  Control Light came on coming home from work on Monday night ... 

 

I'veattached the scan showing its the OSF speed sensor to blame but just wondering in anyone can decipher everything else on the log ....

 

Regards 

 

Peter p

Log-OV07VHG-TMBAE61Z072147617-211220km-131246mi (1).txt

 Nobody willing to assist .....

Let’s have a go in order, these in my experience are the most likely causes -

 

1. Glow plug faulty. Given mileage I’d advise a set.    

 

2. Air mass meter, again given the mileage, probably wants a new one for implausible signal. 

 

3. AC pressure low, it it’s not working I’d say either a leaky condenser or maybe a leaking switch. Requires diagnosis. 

 

4. Wiper switch faulty, common one, new switch required. 

 

5. Seat position switch, usually flags this code if it’s been switched off. 

 

6.interior monitoring, very common. Int monitoring unit superseded many times with new software versions.  New unit required. 

Regarding the aircon it might just need a regas.

 

I would welcome more info regarding the interior monitoring sensor, I had a defective alarm horn (battery leaked) and replaced it with a cheap Ali-Express one, it then threw up a no comms error but also, at the exact same time the same no comms error for the interior monitoring sensor that the OP has which had never been seen previously.

 

Could it be that the new alarm horn is not compatible with the interior monitoring unit? Or do they both communicate seperately with the canbus controller.

 

I dont want to throw good money after bad but would replace the control unit if I thought it would get the alarm up and running as I no longer have an immobiliser after fitting a remapped ECU.

23 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I dont want to throw good money after bad but would replace the control unit if I thought it would get the alarm up and running as I no longer have an immobiliser after fitting a remapped ECU.

 

Your immobiliser should still be working after fitting a remapped ECU. 

 

 

No, apparently they remove it so the new ECU can be plug n play, otherwise it would mean sending mine off for recoding, my understanding is that the ECU contains the info on what key chips are registered but I have also heard that about the instrument binnacle, I know the ECU contains a second independant mileage counter (based on engine running hours and speed) because my dashs shows the correct mileage my vehicle has done but VCDS reveals the higher mileage of the scrap vehicle whos ECU was reprogrammed.

 

How can I test that my immobiliser works? I have some recollection that the chip can be removed from the keyfob.

Hi Techie,

 

Is there any way of telling how current the glow plug and air mass sensor are as the car starts and runs fine and just passed its MOT last week ....

 

Air conditioning seems to work just hasn't been regassed since an owner done it about 5-6 years ago, there's a receipt for it along with a new switch... Hopefully if just needs regassed 

 

Wiper switch fault I didn't understand as everything seems to be working .. Auto wipers work when it rains as do the intermittent settings ...

 

Alarm seems to work although in 4 years of ownership I've had it go off twice sitting  outside the house ....

 

Drivers memory setting has never worked ... I guessed was just a duff switch, it has a full range of motion and seems to have several positions memorised...just none of them are ones I've tried to put in it...

 

Speed sensor I've priced at around £25 and Round £20-£30 to fit so hopefully it'll be sorted soon .... 

 

 

1. Resistance check with a multimeter

2. Probably just a regas then and clear code

3. It’s an intermittent fault. The code gets logged when the control unit sees an odd signal

4. Leave it alone then

5. See above

As above for the glow plugs, you might as well change all four as you need to open up the engine cover to access them and they are not expensive to buy.

 

For seat memory switch you will probably find that it is badly corroded circuits as someone might of spilt liquid on it, and a new memory switch will sort it if you are bothered.

 

For MAF if acceleration feels sluggish or getting poor MPG it might be time for a new one as the MAF controls the fuel mixture.

 

Thank you Techie .....

 

Hi Wiilydog ....

 

Car still seems to accelerate fine with no loss of power or sluggishness albeit there's a bit more black smoke on hard acceleration than normal ... Mind you I've missed out its regular bottle of redex recently and only stuck one in before the MOT the other week .... No smoke at all on idling and no issues raised on MOT regards emissions and the car still returns between 45-49mpg on my normal run in and out of work ( round trip of 58-60 miles 3-4 days a week on motorway at 60mph) and my daily galavanting about town in between work I get roughly 500-520 miles on a tank full and the car is brimmed every time I fill it..... I am however running about with a boot full of cleaning stuff and car accessories so it is maybe the equivalent of an extra body in the car ... 

I would expect significantly better economy than you are getting given your motorway speed.

 

I had to reset my fuel computer via VCDS as it was 13% over-optimistic, done lots of brim to brim comparisons and its now spot on, even on a 130kph + motorway run or a day spent in stop-start town traffic my fuel economy has never dropped to what yours averages.

20 hours ago, J.R. said:

No, apparently they remove it so the new ECU can be plug n play, otherwise it would mean sending mine off for recoding, my understanding is that the ECU contains the info on what key chips are registered but I have also heard that about the instrument binnacle, I know the ECU contains a second independant mileage counter (based on engine running hours and speed) because my dashs shows the correct mileage my vehicle has done but VCDS reveals the higher mileage of the scrap vehicle whos ECU was reprogrammed.

 

How can I test that my immobiliser works? I have some recollection that the chip can be removed from the keyfob.

If you want to test the immobiliser, take the instrument cluster out and try starting the car. Or disconnect the key reader

If it starts and continues to run, then you have no immobiliser

 

Don't try it, unless you have vcds to clear faults afterwards

 

immobiliser consists of

 

ECU > Speedo (CS, MAC, Power Class Pin, Vin) must match

Speedo > keys (Transponder Id, Pin) must match

Great idea thanks!

21 hours ago, J.R. said:

No, apparently they remove it so the new ECU can be plug n play, otherwise it would mean sending mine off for recoding, my understanding is that the ECU contains the info on what key chips are registered but I have also heard that about the instrument binnacle, I know the ECU contains a second independant mileage counter (based on engine running hours and speed) because my dashs shows the correct mileage my vehicle has done but VCDS reveals the higher mileage of the scrap vehicle whos ECU was reprogrammed.

 

As Eddie has mentioned the engine ECU is only part of the immobiliser system. If the engine ECU is unlocked so it will run on any car the keys are still coded to the dash cluster.

Edited 8 July, 20196 yr by Tech1e

It would give me a lot of confidence to know that the immobiliser still works especially as I often have to leave the keys hidden (not very well) on the car when I am running.

 

There may be another way of testing that could give me everything that I need if the immobiliser does work, can the chip be removed from the key? That way I could test if it functions without disconnecting clusters or proximity readers, also it means the spare emergency key that I want to hide in the chassis like I did with my MK1 can be put there minus chip and the chip placed in my hidden stash inside the car. I guess I could just remove the blade from the fob also?

 

From what you have been saying about the immobiliser am I right in deducing that the dash cluster carries the key chip info and will only allow a registered keychip to start the vehicle, it also recognises the ECU and would recognise if someone swopped it to overcome the alarm perhaps?

Hi J.R. I noticed though that you've the old 1.9 engine which gives a much better fuel economy than my newer 2.0 BKD engine achieves even with its 6 speed box 

Yet my neighbour with the 2.0 6 speed gets better economy than I do but maybe he hasn't doubted the readings and done a brim to brim test.

 

Just tested the immobiliser, removed the blade from the housing on my spare key which started the car before, it still does without the chip 🙄

 

Funny thing is when Ipried it apart I could not find the supposedly removeable chip at all, I could see the compartment but there looks to be a male tang in the other half that would fill the void where a chip would be.

 

Either my vehicle never had an immobiliser, it was made RHD but for the Cyprus market (I will check the build PR codes), it has already been disabled and the chip removed from said key, perhaps after losing the original? Or the chip fell out when I opened it, I did not see or hear it and has been lost amongst then detritus on the workshop floor, unlikely as having not so good vision I am very attuned to hearing things drop when I dismantle things, I know where they ahve fallen even if its difficult to find them, and the floor is tiled and swept clean for that exact reason.

 

Anyway I know that the immobiliser does not work on my vehicle, nor the alarm, good job that Skoda are still laughed at by many and not desirable for thieves!!!!

52 minutes ago, J.R. said:

From what you have been saying about the immobiliser am I right in deducing that the dash cluster carries the key chip info and will only allow a registered keychip to start the vehicle, it also recognises the ECU and would recognise if someone swopped it to overcome the alarm perhaps?

 

The alarm and immobiliser are two separate unrelated systems.

 

The immobiliser control unit is in the dash cluster. The reader that goes around the ignition barrel reads the transponder chip in the key and then sends that information to the control unit. Meanwhile another message goes out to the engine ECU to check that is OK to start too. By removing the engine ECU security coding it just takes that out of the loop so it's back to Immo 2 basically.

 

It's a whole lot easier just to stick your key in a secure running belt, works well for me.

I dont run with any encombrances, its the way I am, a minimalist if you like.

 

Wont take water either unless its a very long cross country course in very hot weather, every village has a cemetary with a water tap except the UK GWGC ones of which there are 2 in my village containing the remains of 1300 souls.

 

It is beginning to look like I never had an immobiliser, further investigation needed with both the PR build codes and VCDS long coding, I always wanted to know what spec differences my car had as a grey import.

 

It may even explain the "incorrect coding" error for the instrument cluster.

10 hours ago, labman1001 said:

Thank you Techie .....

 

Hi Wiilydog ....

 

Car still seems to accelerate fine with no loss of power or sluggishness albeit there's a bit more black smoke on hard acceleration than normal ... Mind you I've missed out its regular bottle of redex recently and only stuck one in before the MOT the other week .... No smoke at all on idling and no issues raised on MOT regards emissions and the car still returns between 45-49mpg on my normal run in and out of work ( round trip of 58-60 miles 3-4 days a week on motorway at 60mph) and my daily galavanting about town in between work I get roughly 500-520 miles on a tank full and the car is brimmed every time I fill it..... I am however running about with a boot full of cleaning stuff and car accessories so it is maybe the equivalent of an extra body in the car ... 

 

mpg seems fine as I'm getting about 42mpg around town and 50mpg on the motorway on my BKD.

 

I didn't get a MAF error code on mine but it felt a bit flat below 2k revs and needed quite a bit of throttle to accelerate quickly from a busy round roundabout so when decided to change last year it made a big difference how it accelerates  response from stand still as it didn't need as much throttle.

At a steady 60mph on the motorway I would expect 70+mpg, I got 72.2 on the MK1 1.9 and 84.7 IIRC on the first tank of this MK2 BKC engine but I was really on a mission and wanted to see how many miles I could run the tank beyond the zero miles showing on the fuel computer.

 

It was also over-reading then as i found when I filled it up and recalculated so the 84mpg was really 75mpg, the MK1 was also probably over-reading.

 

Now with an alleged 140hp remap and enjoying the power I average a true and corrected 56mpg on mainly local runs and 15km each way trips 3 times a week, no motorways.

Edited 8 July, 20196 yr by J.R.

Hi Folk,

 

coming home last night I noticed my EML came on and when I switch the engine offf and back on I get a dialogue saying "emissions workshop" 

 

Without paying for a second second scan and given my original scan mentioned an issue with the MAF and Glow Plugs could I assume it's the MAF that's gone and not something else ...I was planning on purchasing one anyway over the next few days 

 

Are the MAF sensors available from the likes of  Euro Car Parts or GSF a decent buy and if so what's the best brand to look for ....

 

Regards

 

Peter

Best to stick with a Bosch MAF, I think Euro car parts do exchange ones so you will occur a surcharge if you don't provide them with your old MAF.

On 15 July 2019 at 19:15, wiilydog said:

Best to stick with a Bosch MAF, I think Euro car parts do exchange ones so you will occur a surcharge if you don't provide them with your old MAF.

 

Hi willydog.... I'd a second opinion taken on the EML and he ran a smoke test which showed a leak in the flexi pipe coming out the rear of the MAF ... On removal it's got a hole in it where it's been rubbing the sharp edge of a metal clip under the pipe.... I've ordered a replacement from EBay as none of my local breakers had one in stock.....

 

its it's also shown a much smaller leak further down on the right hand side of the engine which he doubts is causing the issue and if it is it's going to a pig to fix as it's pretty inaccessible from above or below the car....