Hi All can someone tell me what is holding my key barrel on ? I have undone the barrel retaining  screw on the edge of the door but the barrel remains unmovable. 

Have you released the other screw that locks the barrel into the handle?

Is that the gold one with the bigger head ? it's to the right of the other one 

When I took one off before I didn't have to release that one 

You should have to..

 

Removing the door handle

Can't thank you enough I was beginning to hate the thing , all done now. 

 

I bought my LK Octy Mk 1 and it had a non functioning car door key and the fob only works right next to the door so I was expecting a failure with the remote , so know I have switched door barrels to a good key . 

 

I now want to change the ignition barrel so I only have one key but it will not come out . I have pushed a paper clip in there and wriggled it , not joy as yet . Any advice much appreciated.  You do not have to take the entire barrel off do you , I just want the key mech bit to swap.

 

Thanks again 

 

 

I am having a similar issue except the screw is impossible to feel. At present I cannot use the drivers' door lock due to it suddenly rotating slightly and not allowing the key in properly. 

 

Haynes and 7zap says it is a hexagon socket whereas the link above says T20. 

 

I cannot feel that there is anything there anyway. 

 

I will be having another go tomorrow but the current situation does not bode well. 

 

99 0ctiWagen

Edited 23 December, 20196 yr by CRB
Spelling error.

Sorted, sort of.

It is a T20 but my aim was not good enough. Two minutes and it was out but a few more minutes revealed this broken part which was presumably stopping the lock from working. Everything else seems fine.

Off to check if the repair kits include this part.

Just a word of warning! The little black screw holds the lock in place. The bigger gold one moves the retaining ring on the inside of the handle. When unscrewing the gold screw count 12 TURNS only and that will be enough. If you unscrew completely the retaining ring may fall into the bottom weld of the door and its a job to get it out. Removing the complete door handle assembly is then the best option unless you can wallpaper your hall through the letterbox.

Just completed a similar job to replace the broken pin on the lock as shown in the picture above. One of the pins sheers off the spring retaining ring and the key (and also the lock paddle and more importantly the sensor in the internal locking mechanism) will not return to centre.  After 3 seconds all the windows go down and you cant lock the doors.  This material failure is such a common fault after a while with owners who are reduced to using the key due to remote problems. If you know what you are looking for then its a quick job. If not, you can end up taking far too much apart. I wonder how many owners have been conned into buying a new locking mechanism when its this quick few quid solution. But hey ho once the door card is off you may as well inspect the wiring and all the plug connections and WD40 the lot.  When replacing the exterior door handle cable (The short one that goes from the locking mechanism to the exterior door handle) be sure to get the tension just right. Too tight and the door will require two tugs of the handle to open, or even a big thump under the lock from the outside. To answer the question, all the repair kits I looked at include all the parts (you will only need the spring retainer) and are available in a range of prices and cast finish qualities. But once you know how its done..... The main learning here is do not totally unscrew either of the Torx screws. The Gold one just 12 turns and the black one just enough to easily remove the lock assembly. Otherwise its door card bingo!