Hi All,

I posted a few problems I was having with my 1.9D Cube Van a while back. Having bought a Haynes manual for the Felicia, I now know the water TEMP sensor is in TWO PARTS. One half drives the dash temp gauge, the other goes to the Diesel Engine Control Unit.

I have not replaced the sensor yet, but I suspect the D.E.C.U.'s half of the sensor is at fault, a possible fix would be to break one of the wires to the D.E.C.U, Ro or Br (Red or Brown) on pins 1 or 3, this would leave the dash temp gauge still working and the plug heat on MAXIMUM time.

This "fix" may effect the EGR valve function and the idle speed boost valve, although I have been driving with the plug to the temp sensor off, this seems to only cause raised idle speed.

mwman

Since this post I have cut the red wire and have had NO problems with starting / running, van costs about £1 per 10 miles on fuel (I have a heavy right foot). A cheap fix to a very annoying problem.

mwman

man i get 380kms to 1/4 a tank at 80/90kmh

at normal driving i get 1000/1300kms from full to just in the red ............. never drive past the red:!!!!!

done 1mm on the guage to 300kms yours seems to be a duffer ? mine uses sod all and never lets me down

Experiencing an identical Hot start problem on a 1998 Diesel Felicia.

Currently I am also removing the plug on the temperature sensor each time I need to make a hot start. This forces on the Heaters.

I have swapped parts off my other W Reg (2000) Felicia Diesel to investigate

(... which runs fine except it has a sheared gearbox mount care of an incredibly gentle front end impact 'not enough to trigger the airbag' accident..so it won't be driving anywhere)

So far, It is not the 4-pin temperature sensor that I pull the plug off to get it to start, (Just in front of the engine block where the pipe from the radiator connects to the block via a plastic housing that holds the sensor).

It is not the single bladed sensor that sits on the RHS end of the cylinder head and is in an oil circuit.

It is not any of the relays sitting to the rear RHS under the bonnet, near the battery.

It is not low water level in the radiator.

I am also experiencing other problems which may be related. The Alternator light just starts to come ON at tickover rpm (Doesn't happen when the lights are switched on). The Tacho jumps 1000 rpm when I put my foot on the brake pedal (for no change in engine tickover). My airbag light is on, flashes off once just after it comes on.

I'm thinking of changing the Alternator next... could be an over-voltage thing..

or maybe the sensor that plugs in underneath the gear box - but i'm pacing myself on this one as this looks like a way to let the gearbox oil out - and I see no filler to put it back in!

Oh.. I get about 500 miles on a tank on both cars , which is about

french price the same to fill now :'(

500m is about 830kms not so good. too heavy that foot. at 110kph i'm just on 2,000rpm. but cant thrash the old gazole the overspeed kicks in and wont let me.

tops out at 155kph ....... errrr 95?

so sorry just cant help you on electrics, they are so varied and each car has its own little issues :'(

have hot start prob with my felicia. it is definately the glow plug control unit located behind the LHS suspensionleg. My prob is locating a new one online!! Oh, i've done 164000 mile in it (1998) still getting 50MPG

Just watch if the glow plugs aint coming on it can be down to something as silly as a door switch or a fuse.

surely it would be a pain to start when cold if it was just the fuse or switch?

I have also have this hot start prob with my felicia. I have to take off the connector to get it to start . Anybody resolve this?

Thanks Jim

The problem is the dual temp sensor, one half run the temp gauge the other goes to the engine control unit. If you look back on my earlier posts I explain which wire to disconnect. My vehicle has been running like this since that post.

mwman

I am thinking about cutting the wire you suggest and wiring a switch into the car, so i can knock the sensor off to start, then switch it back on when running.

Mine had a sensor from a 1.3 petrol installed before. I wonder if this was installed as a way of getting round the problem?

Thanks

Jim

It is possible it was changed for that reason. I have not looked at the petrol vehicles sensors. It seems a common problem and most people just un-plug the sensor to start from hot. I wonder if anybody has tried to source a new sensor and at what cost?

I still seem to get air bubbles in the diesel feed when the tank is a third full, I must resolve this as the only way I can stop it cutting out shortly after start up, is to park with the front "down hill". It is most annoying!

mwman

What color band does your sensor have? The 1.3 petrol one had a yellow band. The replacement diesel one has a green band.

Cheers Jim

I took it to the Skoda dealer who charged me

Good stuff miju...This prob has been the bane of my life with this car...well it`s the mrs`s car which makes it twice as bad !!

Could u elaborate on the specifics of your switch mod ?

Location of switch etc and where u cut into the wiring ?

My symptoms are simply battery draining churning over when hot with a sudden spring into life at the last second.(No Glowplug light showing).

I first suspected an ignition switch as I felt the Fuel Conrol valve was not being energized when hot,but I now rather suspect that connectivity comes through the DECU box ??

Hi Alex,

I stripped back the tape going to the temp sensor, I then cut the red cable going to the temp sensor and put in the feed for the switch.

I fed the cable through the big rubber grommet on the driver

Timing must of been my problem. I had a new timing belt fitted last week, mechanic must of got all the settings right.

It starts perfectly now.

Worth checking if you haven't already.

Hello all,

this is my first post...and my first Skoda! A 1.9D cube van. I've only had it a month and the last week I've been plagued by a "hot start" problem. Having only bought the van because my old diesel Landy has a weird brake problem that I haven't time to sort out, and the ever present bad starting problems of Landy's, I was a little miffed at having to resort to the Start Charger again. After doing a google search today I found you lot, and this post, which was a coincidence because I'd been told on the phone to a Skoda dealer that this was a "known problem, and can be cured for £50 + VAT with a re-wire.

So I thought, what the hell, let's have a go.

Not having a Haynes for the van yet, I guessed at which plug it might be and found it first time, and she started from very hot! Great news! So I've now cut into the red wire, bypassed it with a switch at the dash, and it works EVERY time. All I do is flick it back once started.

So many, many thanks folks. I do love the info you can find on the NET, especially when it saves you fifty quid!

And for reference, I also get about 100 miles to £10...which at twice the distance I get from the Landy may well see the Landy repaired and sold. And the heater even works in the Skoda! And it has a radio! And the brakes work! And it carries more! And....why would I even think of going back?

cheers

Andy Cobweb

Hey Cobweb...You mean the Skoda Dealer actually referred to a "Mod" which they bwould carry out ?

This interests me as I would like to get the Factory`s spin on this.

I am going to do the wire cutting exercise but I would be interested in learning of a tider solution if it were possible ?

Hello three,

yes, the actually said it was a "known fault" and said there was a standard modification, a re-wire, that the garage could do to cure the fault. For your interest the dealer is:

Autobiz (Anglia) Ltd, based in Attleborough, Norfolk. 01953 452588

I haven't had a single problem today, after the re-wire. The dashboard switch works well and is already second nature when the engine is warm. Because you are switching the wiring back to "normal" after starting the engine, everything is as it should be, so I can see no problems.

The re-wire offered by the garage must be the same scenario, or maybe even, they cut the red wire out completely, which would force a permanent glow-plug start condition, which as far as I can imagine would do no harm whatsoever, other than perhaps to shorten the life of the glow plugs...but I'd rather change them a little sooner than have to struggle starting it EVERY time I got in it.

It's great workaround; it's simple, quick, and works without fault. What more could oyu ask for?

Andy

Hi, I have just bought a year 2000 Felicia 1.9D. I have the same starting problem, if the engine is part warm... I have fitted a new sensor (green band) (motoquip

Further to previous thread:

Problem Solved !

The Parts Manager at my local Skoda Dealer told me that the Sensor for a 1.9D Felicia, should have a BLUE band. So, I bought one (

:eek: YIKES !!!...SeaKay...repeat please.....A BLUE Band..???

All the indications up to now were a YELLOW Band for the 1.3 Petrol and a GREEN band for the 1.9 Diesel.

I bought a supposed new Diesel sender with a GREEN band and it made FA difference except to make my bald spot larger from pointless scratching. :eek:

Do you have the Part Number perchance..?

Good thread this as we appear to be getting someplace.

Like yourself,I too am unhappy with the cut and switch solution but will do it IF no definitive solution presents itself.

Following on to previous thread:

The Blue Band Sensor that solved the problem is:-

Skoda Part Number: 6UO 919 501B TEMPSENDER

I hope this helps: please let us all know...

SeaKayaker

Interestin Number business.

The ORIGINAL one which I replaced is a VW/Audi P/N 357919501 which has a rating marked on it of 12V-140 Max.

I shall bombard my Dealer tomorrow with the new number and see what transpires !