As I have the same car and same year, I would be interested to know how many miles the car had covered before the fault appeared.
Thanks,

Mike

The problem arose at around 73000 

 

Top job...Well done

 

I brought my car at 74000 miles and the heater wasn't working then. I am not really any mechanic but replacing the heater blower fan and resistor was pretty straight forward. At the weekend I am going to get under glove box to see if I can see any chaffed wires.

Dabbs

Hello StarWarsNerd

 

Do you have any more photos of the location of the wiring loom you looked at.  Was it difficult to get to the wiring loom? How long did  it take? Did you use insulation tape or heat shrink wrap. Sorry to ask so many questions. I just want to save time and try it myself. Much appreciated and thanks in advance.

Sorry folks, I do not have any more photos. Loads of insulating tape around every wire and the bundle. Warning, when you remove the glove box , to get clear access it needs to be fully disconnected at the SRS connector and taken out of the way, this triggers the SRS warning light system which needs resetting using the VCDS. The heater resistor wires run in behind the control panel recess. Removing the control panel is easy. Removing the radio satnav unit is easy but you need the four digit code for the head unit to get it working once it is re installed. My advice is do not ask a franchised Skoda dealer workshop to get the code for you if don't have it. They will either look at you incredulously, refuse, or charge you some unbelievably inflated figure for doing so. I have an excellent local auto electrical specialist who coded and a programmed a satnav unit upgrade. I'd  use them every time and it helps that I know them through the motorcycle trade.

 

 

Hello

 With the help of a friend we removed the glove box, SRS switch and removed the stereo and had a good look at the wires and could not see any wires that were chaffed. I am attaching two images which I took. We removed the plastic bit that blows the air out to give full access to the wiring loom. We could not see anything, everything was wrapped with tape. I was really hoping this would solve my problem with the heater 😞 ....search goes on...any help would be appreciated....

Hi Dabbs,

if there are no cheffed wires the only thing I can suggest is thorough continuity test as I did before taking everything apart. While yours is dissassembled test continuity from the supply side from the fuse to the power in pin of the four position speed control. Check continuity through the switch itself on on all positions. Check continuity from each supply position from the switch plug pins to the resistor plug pins. Check the continuity through each resistor path in the resistor block itself. Do an independent 12v supply to the fan and see how it runs. Check the fuses! I'm sorry if any of this is teaching granny to suck eggs. Other than what I have done I do not know Ifwhat else to suggest. Er, the current draw of the fan should not exceed 30 amps.

 

If your fan has not worked since buying your car I do wonder what else there might be wrong electrically. A lot of components run a common fuse, eg. the reversing light switch and oil level sensor. mispositioned fused is another common finding. I can't give any more ideas as to what you should do. Good luck.