Hi,

 

so I've got a 2010 VRS (petrol) with misfire issues (engine code CCZA).

 

Breakdown:

• I've checked engine blocks whilst driving. Cyl 2 misfires under gentle accelleration when cold (as in - engine not at operating temp).
• NO EML
• I've swapped 2 and 3 coilpacks - still misfiring cyl 2 as above.
• New spark plugs were fitted a while back by an indie, but original coilpacks
• An injector (not sure which one) had a new seal applied to it whilst at the indie for my chain/turbo issues.
• Have been told compression looks fine on all cyclinders by above indie
• I've fitted new coilpacks (r8s) but the problem still persists.
• VCDS scan showed below error around evap.

 

                Address 01: Engine       Labels: 06J-907-115-CCZ.clb
Control Module Part Number: 1Z0 907 115 AF    HW: 1Z0 907 115 F
  Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI     0010
           Software Coding: 0203000C1C070160
            Work Shop Code: WSC 73430 790 00999
                      VCID: 79FE6174307CCD87E0-802C
1 Fault Found:

001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
               P0441 - 000 - Incorrect Flow - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100000
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 190354 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2044.14.06
                    Time: 21:58:08

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 835 /min
                    Load: 20.4 %
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Temperature: 89.0°C
                    Temperature: 18.0°C
                    Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
                    Voltage: 14.224 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

 

Fuel cap seals look like they're cracked so maybe a new fuel cap needed.

 

Thoughts on where to go from here?

 

 

I dunno really. The Obvious has been done, I guess you should follow the fault log.  My 2011 has not thrown an EML for the incorrect flow, and when I checked annually at service time never showed any faults or pending faults over 3 years. But when I plugged in the other day, whilst doing an oil change, I had a pending fault for incorrect flow but no driveability issues yet noticeable.   I cleared it, it has not come back yet. If the intermittent fault was combined with another or other fault codes related to fuel mixture it would be more convincing..

 

Ps Fuel filter would also be worth changing if not done.

 

 

Edited 31 October, 20196 yr by TheClient

Thanks. I'll get that sorted

Another update.
I've not changed the fuel filter, but I have done some logging.

 

Fuel is within half a bar pressure on misfire.

I've checked and (block 106) fuel pressure (at operating temp) with engine at idle and off. It does increase in value suggesting that there isn't a leak.

Duty cycle at idle is under 50% so I assume that the fuel filter isn't to blame here (and neither is the lift pump).

 

Evap error came up again after fitting a new fuel cap and there's clicking from the n80. I just need to figure out if that's the normal or abnormal clicking for the moment.

 

Another interesting one that might be worth pursing are knock sensors (I need to understand if they impact the fuelling in some way.)

cyl 1 and 2 are lower values at cold idle (2 being the lowest) whilst 3 and 4 are much higher values.

 

On operating temperature idle - they're about uniform.

Evap sounded kind of OK, but I don't know for sure. is probably knackered. Not sure if this is impacting things too much or not.

pulled from http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/42731-Reading-Air-Fuel-ratio-with-vagcom-HOW

 

Quote

Generally blocks 30, 31 and 31 are used to determine A/F mixture.

Have a look at 31 first. That will give you the Lambda values around 1.

Lambda of >1 is Lean
Lambda of <1 is Rich

A/F ratio = Lambda x 14.7

Have a read of this too. It will give you an idea of what you should see.

 

I should check that out whilst it's heating up.
 

Edited 3 November, 20196 yr by bspman

The fast clicking that cycles in and out with the n80 activation is a fairly common "feature" on these engines and is there on my car.  But if it is throwing the incorrect flow code it is likely the n80 or carbon canister at fault. Probably should sort it before moving further.  The question is do you replace the whole hose assembly for the n80 with check valve at £60 something plus a major hassle to fit, or risk just the N80 itself as a ghetto fix....  From reading other posts the carbon canister is more again but easier to fit than the complete hose assembly.

 

Me I'd probably just try replacing the n80 itself as the easy and cheap option.

Edited 4 November, 20196 yr by TheClient

Thanks for the Advice.
I think at this point charcoal canister followed by ghetto mod for the N80 is in order.

I'm slightly concerned about the possibility that it's an injector, but let me get this sorted and see how it goes.

Do you know if the hard plastic pipes can be made soft with a bit of heat?

Edited 4 November, 20196 yr by bspman

I'd try some heat. Yes, its pretty well moulded onto the outlet though!  Otherwise either cut the barb outlet off leaving it inside the pipe and use some hose of a larger size to fit over it and clamp.  Or find a joining splice of the correct diameter to join onto the pipe after cutting a small section out.

 

I have seen single injector faults on here. Usually when they get really bad and the EML comes on.  Have you looked at the plug visually in cyl 2?  

My old 2011 vRS started getting mis-fire. Checked for Coilpack issues as that was the most logical thing at the time, but swapping them around, I couldn't get the problem to follow - static in cylinder 2.

As it happens I was getting to the position where I was trading the car in, and as the misfire was only really there under acceleration, I managed to move the car on without fixing.

However, before that happened I took it into a local place who were convinced it was an injector at fault.

Had I been planning on keeping the car, I was probably going to have them replace all 4 - the major expense was the labour and if they were having things apart for 1, they might as well replace all 4.

Small update:

Picked up an n80 from opie oils as they had a 15% code on yesterday.
I also visited TPS and picked up a new charcoal canister and valve and fitted those.

On next start it seems to splutter a little bit but drove it up and down the road - was running fine without any misfire I have had the car out not long ago and temps are higher than before.  I'm expecting it'll still have issues but I'll have to wait till it's colder to re-test that.

 

I'm holding off on fitting the n80 for the moment.

 

@Stoofa Thanks for that insight.

 

I'm really hoping it's not the injector! If it is - that's all 4 plus an intake manifold I'll get done at once plus the pipework with an n80. It'll likely cost something between £800 and £1000 to do... so I'm holding my breath.
 

@TheClient I can only really work on the car when dark at the moment and the rain isn't helping. I haven't had a chance to checkt out plug #2  yet but I will likely pull out all 4 and take pics to compare. Is 1 on the charcoal canister side and 4 on the battery side?

Edited 5 November, 20196 yr by bspman

15 minutes ago, bspman said:

 

@TheClient I can only really work on the car when dark at the moment and the rain isn't helping. I haven't had a chance to checkt out plug #2  yet but I will likely pull out all 4 and take pics to compare. Is 1 on the charcoal canister side and 4 on the battery side?

Yes, that is the numbering as I remember it. 1 to 4, Left to Right standing in front of car looking at the engine.

No chance to get at the plugs yet (I struggle to work in the dark). Planned this weekend.

looks like the n80 is next. Should arrive today/tomorrow.

edit: Ordered the wrong N80 . I've order the correct one I believe now. 

Pouring down outside so I'm not keen on getting at the spark plugs.

Edited 9 November, 20196 yr by bspman

Got at the spark plugs today. number 2 was IMO in excess of 2mm gap (didn't take a pic at a useful angle unforutunately.

 

I've gotten it down to something in the region of 0.7-0.9mm - 1 and 3 checked and a much smaller gap (I can't tell exactly as gauge was old and rusty!)

 

I think the problem has gone away.. but I thought that about when I did the coilpacks. Monitoring and will report back in a week probably.

 

Long over due update on this thread in case someone is digging it up in the future:

New injectors all round and a carbon clean. It seemed to be ok at first, but at the return of colder weather the cold misfires are apparent again.

 

Just living with it now.