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Misfire


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Mk2 2010 fl Octavia Vrs 

 

Hi everyone hope someone could lead me in the right way. Yesterday 31st jan 2020 I was driving down a lane when car started to misfire, the engine light came on followed by epc light and then in the middle where the maxidot display is that came up with workshop. Called Rac and waited 3 hrs and he code 2 recorded codes  Which was p0301 and p130a. 

Eventually the car started again and after a minute of ticking over lumpy cos of the misfire the engine picked back up and ran smoothly, I drove the car 2 miles back home whilst the Rac bloke followed behind and I never had another problem with it. He told me to try either changing the plugs are the coils which today Saturday i went to GSF and purchased and fitted 4 new Bosch coil packs and 4 new ngk plugs to the tune of £140, only had the car ticking over and revving it on drive seemed ok until I went out at 5pm and within 4 miles misfire again but now lights come on dash. Anyway I pulled over and switched engine off and rang Rac again 😡, he’s come out plugs reader in and no faults showing at all so he’s scratching his head and I’m thinking just wasted £140 today and something not needed. Has anyone else had this problem and what was the outcome to sorting it. 

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Google the codes. P301 indicates a misfire on cylinder 1 with options on causes. P130a arises because the ECU switches off the injector to that cylinder. 

 

From P301 I would have suggested faulty injector since you have done the plug and coil. Since it sometimes runs ok I would rule out several mechanical issues as they would always be present. However, temperature can affect some parts. I would expect leaks to be more noticeable when cold and seal under heat, if only minor.

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3 hours ago, Me-109 said:

Google the codes. P301 indicates a misfire on cylinder 1 with options on causes. P130a arises because the ECU switches off the injector to that cylinder. 

 

From P301 I would have suggested faulty injector since you have done the plug and coil. Since it sometimes runs ok I would rule out several mechanical issues as they would always be present. However, temperature can affect some parts. I would expect leaks to be more noticeable when cold and seal under heat, if only minor.

Update I’ve checked for signs of main rear oil seal gone and it’s ok, also there is a noticeable difference to tick over if you pull dipstick out then replace again so that tells me that the pcv valve must be working and doing its job. Just removed diverter valve to see if the diaphragm is damaged but that also looks ok. Can’t see any split vacuum pipes. Only thing I’ve noticed is if I disconnect Maf plug engine still tick over with no difference

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