Hi all,

 

My electric windows stopped working.

 

A few times the lock seemed to be stuck so the servo wouldn't be able to open the door without turning the key in the door. (that's very rare but maybe related). Is there a fuse'-ish functionality in the comfort module that "gives up" when things don't go right?

 

Sometimes the windows suddenly "fix themselves" for a few days. I can also help it by removing the 25A fuses for a few seconds each. If the windows work, they seem to operate as they should.

 

My first thought was the driver's side electrical harness although after a quick visual inspection, it looks okay. I saw pictures of cables with broken isolation online and I hoped to see that here too so the fault would be visible - but not this time.

 

I would like to gain a bit more understanding of what these wires are before I try to rip the doors apart to test conductivity.

 

• What are the four plugs we can see here? There's black, white, blue and a yellow/beige one. I wonder what signals or voltages should be here and when? Anything measureable?
• Am I right in thinking that the driver side door contains a controller module. What would happen if you unplugged the driver side door and tried to operate the passenger side window?
• Any schematics/reads on that?

 

Or - is there anyone good at this kind of stuff in Leeds area?

 

I just found this which explains that the plugs are:

 

1 -	Voltage supply, loudspeakers

2 -	Mirror, CAN-Bus

3 -	Door contact, warning lamps

4 -	Central locking system

 

The figure is of an european spec Fabia so they could be swapped 2-3 and 1-4. Anyone knows the colours please?

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/vehicle_electrics/electrical_system/wiring/fuse_holder_and_relay_carrier/connector_station_a_pillar/

Just to make sure, have you tried buttons on both doors ? Just easy to test to make sure its not them.

 

I have 2 fabia mk1, and both have problems with the buttons.

Yes, it's always the same thing on both sides. On the days the windows work - both sides work reliably. Someone suggested I should find an electronic module inside the driver's side door and this needs to be replaced or resoldered as it might have cold joints.

I had similar problems to this, I ended up having to get a driver's side window motor/ECU and a new driver's door switch. New motor is expensive £170 from TPS, switch was £10 off eBay.