For a while I've struggled with power to USB devices( including  a grandson with an iPAD)  and dashcam all plugged into the power socket next to the handbrake. I've found recently that handbrake operation results in problems with the power plug. I've looked at ways to get a piggy back feed from the fusebox ,without any result. Fishing it got nowhere. Then came a broken brake switch with the need to remove dash panels. Suddenly th way became clear. There's a path under the dash with the lowr dash dropped ,and by fishing over to the passenger side under the glove box, where I've got a double car/marine USB socket of max 3.1A. Again, by removing the ashtray, the centre console screws become accessible and the screws on the rear are under the rear pull up section of the console. That's where I've put a second USB convertor. Power to  this one comes from a single wire to the same 5A piggyback as the glovebox one , with earth  from one of the console screws. . OK, should be higher than 5A, but there's little chance of using all 4.  I might be using 2 in front for sat nav on old phone and radio convertor, with GS using one of rear two fro iPAD. All powered from a supply that's off when car ignition off, as sockets have a light on the outside.

Dash cam-I've routed mine under th gap between the screen and headlining, down th drivr side A pillar , across the top of the dash and down blow the fusebox, using the door rubber. Then back into /undr th lower dash to a piggyback fuse, via a 5/12v convertor.

Now that 5/12 v convertor gives rose to questions.

Do I

1) - Use th power socket that came with kit . Cost zilch, but there's a bit of cable to hide under the dash and possibly cause problems.

2) -buy a kit .Cost £20 . Box looks too big and there's a lot of excess wiring to hide under dash. Same problems as 1+2.

3)- Build my own convertor. 12-5v chip -circa £2 . Other components circa £2 max, being a heatsink and a couple of capacitors.

I strictly didn't need the heatsink as the chip will provide 1.5A of current  . Container- I used an old diabetic tst strip holder. Even nicer as option 3 fits into th fuse holder. With this option I can engineer the wiring to su

 

There are loads of options for 12V drop to 5V. Plenty of switch mode jobbies using LM2596. Some toted as 12V or car to USB. Depends what power you need. I'd assume a dashcam needs <1A. I also bought some LM7805 boards. Compared to the LM2596 boards they're large and bulky and will run a lot hotter.

 

Probably, I'd look at some of the tiny boards with USB out if they have solder output pads too, that's a win.

 

Wonder if there's any anti-surge protection in the supplied blob though? Is the camera meant to run from constant 12V feed or from B+?

 

J.

The sockets ( usb from 12/24v )I bought are said as marine versions with covers and are rated at 3.1A for the socket( as a double pair).

The camera is fed from it's own 12/5v convertor plug. As said, I'd looked at various options for a permanent wire in ant either the kit was excessively over priced(IMHO) or too large to fit in/around the fusebox. I've had a remote release on the hatch working from my own design for a few years ( radio unit needs 12v+/- 1v ,which is supplied from a 1.5A 7805 as per makers data sheet into a 5-12v convertor) with no problems. So I opted for another 7805, on a heatsink as per makers data sheet .No need for any PCB- all the components can be wired to the 1.5A 7805( and I've fitted mine inside a 1" dia x 2" long diabetic test strip container, which will fit nicely inside /alongside the fusebox).   . Dashcam takes less than .5A from makers data, and less than that when display is not operational, so the 7805 is working well below capacity. And from my results from the hatch remote and data sheets, the supply has anti surge  protection. I've not opened the 12/5 convertor but I'd not be surprised to find the standard 7805 circuit, but using the low powered chip. I've opted for a higher powered chip, mounted on a heatsink to keep heat to a minimum.

I too had a problem with the 12v power/lighter sockets being permanantly live. However, I have a solution which was very simple and worked for me. This will only work if you DON'T have electrically adjustable seats.

Take out the 20A fuse for the 12v power socket feed. I then made up a couple of male/female spade connectors one short one longer. connected one of the female connnectors to one side of the fuse, and the other female conn. to the other side of the fuse. Then connected one of the male conns. (in my case the short one) into the 12v power socket (lower connection), and the other male connector to the only available connection in fuse no 45, which is an ignition switched 12v live , as opposed to the usual permanant. I now have mt dash cam set up with the feed wire tucked behind the passenger dide door rubbers, all the way into the boot...you can't see any of it, plugged into the 12v socket in the boot. Happy days! one proviso though I would avoid using the lighter as it draws quite a heavy current.

 

1 minute ago, pete663 said:

I too had a problem with the 12v power/lighter sockets being permanantly live. However, I have a solution which was very simple and worked for me. This will only work if you DON'T have electrically adjustable seats.

Take out the 20A fuse for the 12v power socket feed.  (no. 40)I then made up a couple of male/female spade connectors one short one longer. connected one of the female connnectors to one side of the fuse, and the other female conn. to the other side of the fuse. Then connected one of the male conns. (in my case the short one) into the 12v power socket (lower connection), and the other male connector to the only available connection in fuse no 45, which is an ignition switched 12v live , as opposed to the usual permanant. I now have mt dash cam set up with the feed wire tucked behind the passenger dide door rubbers, all the way into the boot...you can't see any of it, plugged into the 12v socket in the boot. Happy days! one proviso though I would avoid using the lighter as it draws quite a heavy current. 

https://fuse-box.info/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk3-5e-2013-2016-fuse-box-diagram