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Oil pick-up 1.4/16v

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Does the little plastic disc that covers the mesh filter come off easily and reversibly, does anyone know?

If so how? Good place to start prizing it?

 

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Is that not a little latch/clippy thing at the bottom in the pics? Looks like the type of thing that might break as soon as look at it 😬

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I've tried a fair bit round there, but it appears to be just to orientate the disc relative to the rest when assembling, since the hole isn't in the middle!

Ah I see.

Hehe, I wonder if it's ultrasonically welded together or something. I have a feeling it might not be meant to come apart.

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Yeah, I think you're right. Certainly doesn't seem to just click together/apart like I was hoping.

Maybe I'll have a glass of wine to loosen the wallet a bit...😃

1 minute ago, Wino said:

Maybe I'll have a glass of wine to loosen the wallet a bit...😃

 

😁

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Christ it'll take more than a glass.  On that site I linked, it'd be £24 by the time it got posted, and even then by second-class delivery.  Back to the cleaning...

Vacuum cleaner maybe?

Edited by Wino

Do you have a compressor and blow gun?

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Nope, but tried vacuum cleaner sucking from the 'in' end and blowing from the 'out' end, neither is shifting the bits that are just the right size to stick in the mesh. 😡

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Looks like I'm pushing the buggers through one by one with a stiff bit of wire.  Talk to you (much) later. 😣

 

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A soak in petrol would probably help.

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Tried paraffin for a while, but it didn't seem to do much. This stuff is basically carbon granules.  I think oven cleaner would do something, but just looking into what it might do to the plastic (PA66 GF30)

 

Got most of it out with bloody-minded determination and a bent hook tool:

 

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Oh yeah, looks like stubborn stuff. What caused you to have the sump off, been having trouble?

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https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/480295-bored-during-lockdown-and-own-a-1416v/

 

^That. 

I was looking through the history this morning, and there was a line in 2014 "Seal oil filter [sic] cap, cleaned oil from front of engine above Exhaust" (1hr @£40) then "Checked for oil leaks" (0.5 hrs).  The buggers could've fitted a new breather box instead and actually fixed the problem!  I'm sure they meant filler neck, cos there was spurious sealant around the neck lower rubber seal.

 

Unfortunately, that suggests that it hasn't been breathing well for the past 6 years, and there was a fairly grim collection of carbon grit in the sump

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Just a note for anyone attempting to remove the sump on one of these, the two screws that come through the holes on the farthest right in this pic are buggers to get undone...

This is where they go, right next to the flywheel:

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No visibility, and no straight/square-on  tool path, really sketchy with a ball-ended 5mm Allen key into shallow-headed screws!, up these two tunnels (red ringed) in the casting about 100mm. Both completely the other side of that gasket between sump and gearbox.

 

About where the yellow dots are:

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Going to be loads of fun getting those two screws back in...

 

Probably worth doing a sump check as part of a clutch/gearbox job, cos those two should be more accessible with box off, and you'd probably already have driveshaft and exhaust both out of the way too.

 

Edited by Wino

Ultrasonic cleaning would work I reckon?

Hmmm, a pig of a job by the looks of it.

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17 minutes ago, juanse_2691 said:

Ultrasonic cleaning would work I reckon?

Yeah, that's true. Don't have that facility at home or at work unfortunately.

 

It's plenty good enough now, there's maybe 5% of the grid occluded, in the extreme outer perimeter area I can't get a tool to. 

It'll be getting regular oil changes for the rest of its life, however long that may be, so it shouldn't have too much trouble maintaining oil pressure.

Funnily enough it's not at all noisy/tappety when running. 

 

Not sure what future this engine has; but on the bright side, it's a version of BKY that doesn't have an EGR valve from the factory, so that won't be causing any trouble!

 

 

 

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21 minutes ago, TMB said:

Hmmm, a pig of a job by the looks of it.

 

I didn't realise there were even screws up those dark tunnels at first. Wasn't til I had the all others out, including the two big horizontal ones, and it still wouldn't pull off at that end, I counted up the M6s and there were only 18 out. I knew there were 20 in total from 7-zap

Edited by Wino

7 minutes ago, Wino said:

 

I didn't realise there were even screws up those dark tunnels at first. Wasn't til I had the all others out, including the two big horizontal ones, and it still wouldn't pull off at that end, I counted up the M6s and there were only 18 out. I knew there were 20 in total from 7-zap

 

Good bit of detective work 👍

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Refitting might not be quite as bad as I feared. Made a couple of short studs to help align it, but they need to go up at the non-flywheel end, because the sump first has to slide/tuck horizontally under some cutouts in the gearbox gasket; it can't just go straight up vertically 🙄.

Cutouts shown here, wish they'd made them a bit deeper...

 

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Just had a couple of dry runs with no fresh sealant on, and the 'get of jail free' card is that I didn't try to clean the old sealant out of the rather oversize clearance holes of the screwholes in the sump.  This has meant that I can get those two screws to engage in the sealant residue enough that they sit straight, retained, awaiting arrival of the ball-ended Allen key down the tunnels. I've also discovered that you can get enough torchlight in from front and rear down the gasket gap to be able to see the screwheads for first engagement with the tool.  Then it's just a case of proceeding very gently and slowly by finger feel on the Allen key until you can tell that the thread is going in right. 

 

Of course it'll all go wrong once there's sealant all over it... going for it now I think.

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Done. :)

 

Excellent! You have a methodical mind like me 👍

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Ta Lee.

I think I might have that glass of wine with my lunch before moving onto anything else. :)

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