Ok so this is my next job, I've scoured the forum, and can see how its done, also I've looked at that workshop manual, my only question is, in the workshop manual it says to use an engine support bar, which I don't have access to and would be pretty expensive for this one job,

I've heard you jack up from the sump just to support the engine, like using a 2x4 peice of wood on the jack, and under the sump (to distribute the load), as anyone else done this on a skoda fabia? is it doable doing it this way?

 

also do the engine mount bolts need replacing after being undone? (one time use?)

 

thanks again for any info guys!

 

regards Mike.

When I did my timing cover oil seal I just removed the engine mount and jacked up under the sump with some wood inserted. You are supposed to use new engine mount bolts but I didn't bother.

Ah wicked thanks again, I'll do the same then I guess and just periodically check them, cheers again mate 

I've done it and this is absolutely doable.

You need to jack to engine up to get clearance to get to the top bolt of the pump pulley. (that is all you are going to get)

You can then slack off the tension of the belt and rotate it to get to the next bolt by moving it to the top. put the tension back on and loosen or fasten them (depending on where you are in the process)

What i will strongly advice is to get one of those cable-type flexible hose clamp pliers. to help get the hose clamp back on the hose going onto the water pump.

Its a real PITA to get the clamp back on without one of those pliers. As you have limited wiggle room and limited access.

Also remove the engine mount entirely for better access. Like TMB said, you are supposed to replace the bolts. But they don't warp enough to cause issues when you torque them down to factory specs (even though they are supposed to be stretch bolts)

You can re-use them. But use locktite.

Edited 4 October, 20205 yr by Xsr

Ok thanks for the info, yes I've got those hose clamp pliars now with the flexible cable.. when removing the engine mount do I just need to remove the 3 bolts at the top of the water pump, and the 4 bolts connecting it to the car ? Ie I can leave the 1 bolt that goes through the middle can't I, I have blue threadlocker I shall use that on the bolts.. i have the torque settings in the Haynes manual but I noticed it says 90 degrees after the torque, does that mean torque to spec, then a further 90, then 1/4 ?

 

 

Also no thread locker on the bit that bolts the pump to the engine ? 

Thanks again 

Mike

Edited 4 October, 20205 yr by MinkyMike

90 degrees is a quarter of a turn. So you torque to whatever Nm it says and then do the quarter turn.

1 hour ago, MinkyMike said:

Ok thanks for the info, yes I've got those hose clamp pliars now with the flexible cable.. when removing the engine mount do I just need to remove the 3 bolts at the top of the water pump, and the 4 bolts connecting it to the car ? Ie I can leave the 1 bolt that goes through the middle can't I, I have blue threadlocker I shall use that on the bolts.. i have the torque settings in the Haynes manual but I noticed it says 90 degrees after the torque, does that mean torque to spec, then a further 90, then 1/4 ?

 

 

Also no thread locker on the bit that bolts the pump to the engine ? 

Thanks again 

Mike

 

You just need to remove the 3 bolts from the pulley and detach the pulley. Then remove the bolts holding the pump to the engine. I use blue threadlocker on waterpump bolts. Some people say you shouldn't. But then again i've never had one of them back out because of it. Neither did i have problems cracking them loose with threadlocker on them. The lowest bolt hole beneath the pump in the block is prone to catching oil and coolant. Which messes with your torque reading. So if you aren't using threadlocker at least make sure you pay extra attention cleaning and drying that hole in particular before putting a bolt back in and torquing it down.

ok so it's done, all good now was the water pump bearing, there was no resistance when turning and it sounded like metal rubbing onto metal, wasn't the easiest of jobs, the pump took some getting off once the bolts were out,

a crowbar, wiggling in between the engine and pump helped and hitting it with an hammer to break it free, the hardest part of this job was removing the rubber coolant pipe, the clips came off easy with the flexible hose clamp tool, couldnt of 

done it without that as there really is no space at all! the coolant pipe had welded / glued itself on even once the clips was off, managed to use a mechanics hook to eventually free it, putting it all back together was a doddle..

 

anyway.. see how it goes over the next few weeks , with timing chain as well, if its still running smoothly I'll write a tutorial with photos to hopefully help someone else who wanted to do this themselves, the Haynes manual states you need to remove the 

oil pump etc.. which you don't, it also calls for top dead centre, which you don't need either as you can turn the crankshaft by putting the bolt back in, and then align the timing marks..

 

also someone on here said to jam a screwdriver into the flywheel (could cause damange!) or, remove the starter motor, and screw a bolt grinded up a point into the teeth (hard work lol)

when really all you need to do is get someone to press the break hard, and both nuts undo no problem at all. (crankshaft & camshaft bolt)

 

peace all and thanks for the help/advise!

 

Mikey

Edited 7 October, 20205 yr by MinkyMike

Great work

 

The 'official' way to lock the flywheel on this engine is to remove the engine speed sensor and insert a bolt that has been ground to a point into the vacant bolt hole...

 

 

 

 

Edited 7 October, 20205 yr by TMB

No way that's definitely useful if you've not got anyone to hold the brake hehe 

2 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

No way that's definitely useful if you've not got anyone to hold the brake hehe 

 

Yeah