Xsr

Had a 1.9tdi caddy with the exact same symptoms. But it has a sticking egr valve. First second and third gear were fine. But as soon as it hit 4th / 5th gear. I could floor it and it would have trouble overtaking people on the highway. Like it had a limiter on it. At first i rammed a can of egr cleaner down its throat. Which caused it to spew a pitch black cloud out of its tail pipe that obsecures the general view for anyone in the area. The problem then became intermittent. I eventually replaced it and got it sorted. It has held up so far.

Those are the exact retainers ! And yes they are much older. Too bad, i like putting fresh retainers down for piece of mind. Was kinda hoping someone figured out how to get retainers on those style brackets. Thanks for your feedback guys.

Yes i am aware of it. The polo ones looked like it but didn't have its type stamped in it. Just looked like it came from the same family

The polo in question was a polo coupe from the 80s era. This thing had a lot of (low budget) work done on it though. All round disk brakes etc. I should have checked what type of hardware it was running, it was most certainly from the same family but older than the FS III. (I don't have the experience to be able to identify them on the spot) Same style mounting bracket, lock pins, and caliper, just older. It just struck me as odd that it also had the integrated mounting bracket and yet had pad clips/shims that worked so well. as every single one of them i've encountered thus far didn't have brake clips/shims. (including new cars) But they fit like a glove, rather narrow shims too. Hence me wondering if something was out there for a Fabia.

Why hello there, Last week i serviced an old polo with a similar integrated style brake caliper bracket as the Fabia. And to my surprise it had brake hardware (the metallic shim where the brake pads slide on) I have never been able to find those shims for the FS III brakes My question to you: Is there some sort of hardware that fits on the Fabia ? Because i run into Fabia's with binding brake (uneven wear, sticky pads, brake vibration) pads quite often as ceramic paste / copper grease does not tend to stay on the ears of the pads or the surface they ride on very long. Plus the surfaces they ride on have by now seen some corrosion (or heavy filing) through out the years. Anyone has a mechanics tip/trick up their sleeve for this problem ? Thanks in advance.

That's ok. I'll take that as a compliment haha. There's more than one way to skin a cat. And the usage of an amp/current clamp is one of 'em (not quite sure what the correct terminology is, we call it an 'amperetang' which literally translates to amperage pliers)

I had a worn rear wheel bearing last year that didn't make an obvious sound. It just had far too much friction. It kinda felt like the handbrake cable was sticking. Which was my initial thought. On closer inspection it turned out to be the bearing. And not because of the noise. But because of the resistance. Even if i spun it fast. It made no obvious weird noises. Same when driving. Not sure if this is common on these bearings, but i thought it was rather peculiar.

I had to read it a couple times before i understood what you meant. My use of words might be off. What i mean to measure is amperage, or better said the resistance that causes the amperage to change. Its driven by a solenoid. Any issues tend to show up as resistance which you can be measure that way. Same trick can be used on spark plugs leads to do a quick and dirty relative compression test. Is it accurate? No. Does it work? It can provide you with indicative information as in 1 of the 4 injectors has a significant different reading than the others. So yes. Its quick and dirty. Could also be that 3 of the 4 are messed up and you are looking at a the one working injector. Or its all over the place and none of it says anything while one of em is messed up. Back probing with an oscilloscope and measuring current would then be a better option. But not everyone has one laying around.

Two easy ways to test it (without having to disassemble anything) One is to put a clamp meter in ohms on the injector leads and check for any abnormal readings. Two is to use an oscilloscope and back probe the injector/injector rail and check the current draw of each injection pulse and check if any of them are not contributing as much as they should. (An obstructed injector will usually appear to have a lower curve than a good injector) Doing both at the same time and cross referencing that data also makes it able for you to pin point which injector it actually is by moving around the ohm clamp. Given that you can also do this with a noid light or power probe, they can easily throw you off. If this is not your cup of tea, there is yet another way (disassembly) Get yourself a EM276 injector tester (The chinesium kind that are cheap and widely available) pull the injectors and test them with that.

It measures the resistance on the sensor prongs inside the tank. These prongs are easily contaminated and give false readings. Especially when left stationary for a while. Weather conditions can also affect the sensitivity of the sensor (cold most noticeably) this has to do with the anti-freeze properties of the coolant. If it freezes and the coolant is not up to standard. It could damage the prongs. A new coolant bottle is required in that case. Same goes with contaminants (though you could try to rinse it out with a bit of brake cleaner as a dirty cheap solution to see if it fixes it.) If the problem returns its most likely due to contaminants like oil. And you should get your waterpump system / headgasket checked. To be fair the prongs are garbage to begin with. I've entertained the idea to figure its exact resistance curve and to retro-fit a different bottle with a better sensor and to make an adapter harness and a custom bracket to fit it to the fabia. But simply Shorting the prongs is easier. until you fix what ever is broken and then replace the bottle. If only it was to get rid of the anxiety of that annoying long beep every time you start the car.

It measures the resistance on the sensor prongs inside the tank. These prongs are easily contaminated and give false readings. Especially when left stationary for a while. Weather conditions can also affect the sensitivity of the sensor (cold most noticeably) this has to do with the anti-freeze properties of the coolant. If it freezes and the coolant is not up to standard. It could damage the prongs. A new coolant bottle is required in that case. Same goes with contaminants (though you could try to rinse it out with a bit of brake cleaner as a dirty cheap solution to see if it fixes it.) If the problem returns its most likely due to contaminants like oil. And you should get your waterpump system / headgasket checked. I've had a lumpy idle problem with my fabia. A simple 'tune up' got rid of it (Cleaning the throttle body and air pressure sensor, and dump a bottle of wynns injector cleaner in the gas tank. followed by an italian tune up.) This was after i made sure i had no exhaust or vacuum leaks. (also a quick way to get a lumpy idle on a fabia) To be fair though the air pressure sensor was the only thing that was noticeably dirty so if i had to attribute it to 1 specific component it would be that. The wynns injector cleaner i use once a year. But to be fair. I've only noticed a significance difference the first time i used it. beyond that point it has just been a part of the yearly maintenance schedule and it has always responded fine. My AQW engine is lumpy by default. But you get a feel for it eventually what is normal and what not. I call them "hickups" It shouldn't be continues.

This code is usually given when there is a software mismatch between the ecu and the other modules (after ecu swap, usually) or when vcds sees a ecu software version that is known to be causing issues. Thus urging you to update it.

I switched out the conversion the wrong way around. 1 euro is 0.90 GBP not 1.10. That's pound to euro's. So thats £61 not £77. I'm on a roll tonight...

Not really looking into firing the parts cannon at it. But for 10 euro's its worth a shot. Might as well get a clutch sensor as well while i am down there. If only for peace of mind.

I messed up. That's the entire pedal assembly including sensor. The sensor itself costs. Around 10 euro's.