Good day,

Upon exchange of the slave clutch cilinder (due torn belows) i have f****d the bleeding process by having the oil reservoir empty (suction is at thr upper part of the reservoir).

I guess plenty of air was introduced into the system and suspect maybe master cylinder is damaged by pumping it dry.

 

Anyway, upon opening the bleeding nipple, connecting a tranparent hose, leaving the nipple open, by pumping the pedal bubles never stop to come out.

Few times got the biting point at a decent height, it was ok for a week.

 

Then tried to make it better and now again the biting point is very low.

 

After bleeding the pedal is firm. But after some time it softens and i can hear like bubling noise in the master cylinder when pressing the pedal. Upon pumping the pedal it becomes firm again.

 

Not sure is the master for exchange or i should do something different.

 

Thanks

15 minutes ago, pavinjo said:

 

Anyway, upon opening the bleeding nipple, connecting a tranparent hose, leaving the nipple open, by pumping the pedal bubles never stop to come out.

 

 

That is not the way to bleed a brake or clutch system.

You need a pressure bleeder, pumping won't work once the system is airlocked.

Thanks guys, unfortunately not in posesion of the pressure bleeder.

 

If air is coming out, should it stop after a while if i am stubborn?

Also why does the pedal get firm after pumping it?

 

I made a short ride after pumping only it and its not so bad.

Will wait to see of it softens again and would like to know why does it happen?

 

Thanks

Edited 25 October, 20205 yr by pavinjo

Forgot to mention both cylinders are dry withouth any sign of leak.

Pumping will work if a helper closes off the nipple at the bottom of every downstroke on command from the person on the pedal. Pumping alone as the OP intimated will just shuffle a slug of fluid & air backwards & forwards.

 

For a clutch the easiest way is to block the pedal down overnight & let the air rise through to the reservoir.

If the bleeding nipple is open, definitely there is movement of hyraulic pipe content towards out.

Does anyone have a drawing of the master cylinder to see how it work i.e. when are the ports open, can air from beneath the piston travel upwards etc

I went through this when I changed the clutch master, it will not clear without a pressure bleeder, go buy one.

Noted, not sure if can be found in stores here. Any cheap recommendation?

Few hours have passed from the last pumping and the bitting point went low again. Will keep depressed over night to see if any difference in the morning.

5 hours ago, pavinjo said:

Noted, not sure if can be found in stores here. Any cheap recommendation?

 

 

Gunson Eezibleed. Cheap and effective, I've been using one for years.

Keeping the clutch depressed over night did not help.

As time passes the condition is getting worse so it must be drawing air somewhere

2 hours ago, pavinjo said:

Keeping the clutch depressed over night did not help.

As time passes the condition is getting worse so it must be drawing air somewhere

 

Please don't take advice from people who don't know how impossible this car is to bleed once it's airlocked, can you get hold of a big horse syringe from a local vet? You can use this to bleed the clutch.

On 25/10/2020 at 13:46, pavinjo said:

If the bleeding nipple is open, definitely there is movement of hyraulic pipe content towards out.

Does anyone have a drawing of the master cylinder to see how it work i.e. when are the ports open, can air from beneath the piston travel upwards etc

I have an old master cylinder I don't mind taking a hacksaw to, if that might be useful?

9 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Please don't take advice from people who don't know how impossible this car is to bleed once it's airlocked, can you get hold of a big horse syringe from a local vet? You can use this to bleed the clutch.

Yes i do have one big syringe, any advice how to do it?

9 hours ago, Wino said:

I have an old master cylinder I don't mind taking a hacksaw to, if that might be useful?

Wino thanks, that would be interesting but i dont like to waste others people time

10 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Please don't take advice from people who don't know how impossible this car is to bleed once it's airlocked, can you get hold of a big horse syringe from a local vet? You can use this to bleed the clutch.

How would they, or how do you, know that said person offering advice does not know?

Edited 27 October, 20205 yr by J.R.

Because I have been in EXACTLY the same situation as the OP with exactly the same car and even with my daughter pumping the pedal while I did the bleeding I could not get it to clear until I bought an eezibleed.

2 hours ago, pavinjo said:

Yes i do have one big syringe, any advice how to do it?

 

Fill it with fresh fluid, attach it to the nipple with a bit of tubing, open the nipple and inject gently until air stops bubbling up in the reservoir, shut nipple and drive the car.

In which position should i keep the pedal while doing this?

Leave the pedal alone, you'll be under the bonnet.

Ok, i will leave it fully out and give it a try. First need to source a thinner tube. Thanks

3 minutes ago, pavinjo said:

Ok, i will leave it fully out and give it a try. First need to source a thinner tube. Thanks

 

You can use a piece of the windscreen washer tubing, rinse it out after and put it back.

Thank for the idea, i will give it a go probably for the weekend

Tried my best to do the syringe oil inject at bleeding nipple method. Borrowed 1 soft black rubber tube from the vacuum system.

Still same problem, pedal getting soft.

 

Although it could be that i need a pressurized bleeder, due not avail at local stores i am going the route to renew the master cylinder. These days i should fit it and see if the problem persists.

Upon fitting the new MC should i bleed air by pumping or with the syringe again?

Last night installed new clutch master cylinder. Did the filling of the system by 100ml by a syringe trough the bleeding nipple, closed the nipple. Pedal feels solid.

Although bleeding air in this way is not the correct procedure as there is a possibility to shift dirt upstream the system and to the reservoir, anyway I took the risk.

Will see tommorow if the feel changes as the slave nipple/nut is already spanner worn due excessive bleeding.

Also funny feeling with this master as when pressing the pedal after about 1cm travel you can feel like a step or increased resistance, maybe it came faulty hmm

Edited 5 November, 20205 yr by pavinjo