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Engine keeps stalling, felicia 1.3 mpi


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Hi all, I need some advice. I broke down on my way to work yesterday (car just cut out and wouldn't restart). After lifting the bonnet whilst waiting for recovery I discovered the oil filler cap was missing, I ordered a new one, fitted it today and had to jumpstart the car as I drained the battery from turning it over.. The car fired up straight away but after 10-15 minutes of idling it stalled again and wouldn't restart.. I've read in another thread that it could be the crank sensor and possibly the ecu, does anyone have any ideas as to whether that could be true? And or what the problem could be, Ive had the car for 2 years now and this is the 1st time it's let me down, no warning signs or noises. It just stopped. Thanks

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7 hours ago, Andyfreeman said:

I've read in another thread that it could be the crank sensor and possibly the ecu

How would you describe your car mechanics skills, diagnose knowledge, and available electrical measuring instruments?

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My mechanical knowledge is very basic, I do not own any electrical measuring instruments of any kind. I do know that an engine needs fuel, air and a spark to run so by process of elimination I think it could be an air issue, or lack of once the engine warms up

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On 22/12/2020 at 18:39, Andyfreeman said:

Hi all, I need some advice. I broke down on my way to work yesterday (car just cut out and wouldn't restart). After lifting the bonnet whilst waiting for recovery I discovered the oil filler cap was missing, I ordered a new one, fitted it today and had to jumpstart the car as I drained the battery from turning it over.. The car fired up straight away but after 10-15 minutes of idling it stalled again and wouldn't restart.. I've read in another thread that it could be the crank sensor and possibly the ecu, does anyone have any ideas as to whether that could be true? And or what the problem could be, Ive had the car for 2 years now and this is the 1st time it's let me down, no warning signs or noises. It just stopped. Thanks

Check proper grounding (if it does that in a specific tempetature range it could very possibly be grounging related),
then when it stalls remove coil pack and check spark,
if you have spark, crank sensor is fine, if you dont, crank sensor is toast.

if you have spark and car still not starting, check injector pulse,
if you dont then goodbye ecu

Edited by Thefeliciahacker
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So.. I found another thread with someone experiencing the same problems as me.. I disconnected the map sensor and ran her up, she didn't cut out once. So new map sensor ordered and being delivered tomorrow. 👍🏻

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3 hours ago, Andyfreeman said:

I disconnected the map sensor and ran her up, she didn't cut out once.

How nice. According to this experiment, the map sensor is uselessB) The car runs fine without it. Why bother buying a new one?

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9 hours ago, RicardoM said:

How nice. According to this experiment, the map sensor is uselessB) The car runs fine without it. Why bother buying a new one?

Oh trust me, the car idles like an absolute pig with it disconnected, but it's doesn't stall. Once I fit it, and test it, I'll let you know how I got on

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16 hours ago, Andyfreeman said:

Oh trust me, the car idles like an absolute pig with it disconnected, but it's doesn't stall.

Of course it idles rough, yet you didn't mention it when doing your test. The MAP sensor (corrected with temperature) is measuring the load of the engine. Based on that and on many other factors, the ECU sets the injectors, spark, and timing. The engine is stalling when the fuel mixture is out of limits (too lean or too rich) based on bad data from sensors. By the way, a bad coolant temperature sensor can stall the engine too and create a no start issue. That is why I don't recommend swapping parts blindly. Yeah, you might solve the problem by pure luck, but usually things don't go well.

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