Hi, 

 

Today, my car would not start 😑 Battery is good, and the motor turns over, but it will not start. In the dash, the light for ESP is lit constantly. The glow light is not lit at all. After several start atempt, low oil pressure alarm suddently came up in the dash as well. Any idea about what the fault can be? 

Is the rev counter registering a speed? Also check the in tank lift pump is running/pumping.

 

Oil pressure alarm normal after extended period of cranking

Edited 21 February, 20215 yr by SuperbTWM

Assuming you are currently experiencing freezing weather, can you try starting using an aerosol type easy start product?

Checked in-tank fuel pump. I can not hear any sound from it. Does that mean it is broken? 

 

9 hours ago, MicMac said:

Assuming you are currently experiencing freezing weather, can you try starting using an aerosol type easy start product?

Temperature is on the plus side 

The pump may just be quiet, lift the rear seat and black plastic cover if necessary to check for a short activation sound each time the ignition key is turned on.

 

If there is no sound check the relevant fuse and connector at the pump for power.

50 minutes ago, MicMac said:

The pump may just be quiet, lift the rear seat and black plastic cover if necessary to check for a short activation sound each time the ignition key is turned on.

 

If there is no sound check the relevant fuse and connector at the pump for power.

I lifted the back seat and removed the Black cover. No sound when ignition is turned on. Fuse is ok. 

Check for power at pump connection, it may just be a bad connection.

Edited 22 February, 20215 yr by MicMac

10 minutes ago, MicMac said:

Check for power at pump connection.

Thanks! I will do that after work today

I put 12v directly to the pump in the tank and the pump works. Now what? 

Now you know the pump works (you may be able to start engine now).

 

Test for power at the pump power input connector, each time the key is turned you should get a brief supply.

 

If present you have a bad pump connector-possibly can be tweaked for a better connection by bending the pins SLIGHTLY.

 

If not check continuity from connector back to its fuse and to body ground to find where the problem is.

Edited 22 February, 20215 yr by MicMac

7 minutes ago, MicMac said:

Now you know the pump works (you may be able to start engine now). Test for power at the pump power input connection each time the key is turned, if you get a brief supply each time you have a bad connection, if you do not, check continuity from connector back to fuse and body ground.

I checked power at the input connection, no power. Do you know where I can find the schematics for the fuel pump? 

However, the is still not starting. ESP light is still on and the glow light is still not coming on...

Does the key remote (un)lock the car?  Just in case it is immobilised.

 

If the key works okay maybe the problem is with the key transponder/ignition RF pickup and/or wiring.

 

Can you scan the car for codes?

4 minutes ago, MicMac said:

Does the key remote (un)lock the car?  Just in case it is immobilised.

 

If the key works okay maybe the problem is with the key transponder/ignition RF pickup and/or wiring.

 

Can you scan the car for codes?

Yes, they key lock and unlocks the door. 

 

A friend of mine is coming over with a scanning tool now, but it is a chewp one, so or may or may not find the fault. 

Check fuse 15 under the bonnet.

 

Your engine code would be a helpful piece of information in getting to the right wiring info.

 

 

Edited 22 February, 20215 yr by Wino
correcting fuse number

As above.

 

You can check your fuse setup here: https://fuse-box.info/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk2-1z-2005-2008-fuse-box-diagram

 

If the wiring checks out check the fuel pump relay, where it's located(?)

29 minutes ago, MicMac said:

As above.

 

You can check your fuse setup here: https://fuse-box.info/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk2-1z-2005-2008-fuse-box-diagram

 

If the wiring checks out check the fuel pump relay, where it's located(?)

Fuse 15 is ok. Checked all relays under the steering wheel, all of them ok. My friend was here with a disgnodtic tool, but it failed to connect. 

Can wrong timing or camshaft sensor result in the fuel pump not getting power? 

Still not starting. Added info: it is - 1 celsius outside and the motor fans start running a few seconds after i put the ignition on. They are running harder than normal, I think. Dont know if this is normal or related to my starting problem. 

There have been several posts lately describing a fan issue.

 

Try disconnecting the battery, turn ignition on, press horn, flash headlights, activate hazard lights, wait 5 minutes, turn ignition off and reconnect battery and see if things have changed.

 

Ensure you have a good/charged battery and engine cranks in a lively way, if it is struggling to turn over and you hear a relay clicking repeatedly the battery requires supplemental charging then retry.

3 hours ago, MicMac said:

There have been several posts lately describing a fan issue.

 

Try disconnecting the battery, turn ignition on, press horn, flash headlights, activate hazard lights, wait 5 minutes, turn ignition off and reconnect battery and see if things have changed.

 

Ensure you have a good/charged battery and engine cranks in a lively way, if it is struggling to turn over and you hear a relay clicking repeatedly the battery requires supplemental charging then retry.

 

Thank you! I will try that 😀

Tried disconnection battery, flashing lights etc. Did not work. 

Unless someone else chimes in I can only suggest having it professionally scanned for more guidance on the problem(s).

Thank you for all your replies. A mechanic is coming by today or tomorrow with vagcom. He think it May be the ECU because it has been snowing and melting and freezing lately. 

I think you will find the ECU is missing one of the several 12v supplies it needs.

 

You will need a wiring diagram to check.

 

VCDS will probably pinpoint the missing supply.