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Skoda Yeti 2010 A/C compressor pulley

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Can a noisy a/c compressor pulley be changed on its own, or is it a whole new compressor job? Anyone done this? (Sanden 5N0 820 803)

 

Cheers

I think it depends whether it has air con  or climate control.

Same compressor for both set-ups and yes the pulley can be changed.

 

Its a very large bearing and I am surprised that its noisy, does it sound like tinkling glass when the engine is running beside an object like a wall or shop front?

 

It could simply be the shear plate or the hub splines stripped, a replacement hub & shear plate is an economic repair.

9 hours ago, J.R. said:

Same compressor for both set-ups and yes the pulley can be changed.

The air-con compressor has a clutch on the pulley the climate control compressor does not, flow is changed on the swash plate inside so no clutch needed.

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3 hours ago, Urrell said:

The air-con compressor has a clutch on the pulley the climate control compressor does not, flow is changed on the swash plate inside so no clutch needed.

Your evidence for that? All swash plate I thought.

 

Edit: looked up Octymk2 by mistake, new link coming with more relevant info...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Wino

I had Climatronic on my Octavia 2 and standard aircon on my Yeti, both use the exact same clutchless solenoid valve regulated compressor.

 

The last VAG vehicle that I have ever seen with a clutch operated aircon compresssor was my 2001 MK1 Octavia.

 

I just looked on Ebay using the part number given by the OP (which is slightly different to mine) many second hand OE compressors on there, all clutchless, here is just one as an example:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-06-12-Sanden-A-C-AIR-CON-PUMP-COMPRESSOR-5N0820803/202971439391?epid=13025930192&hash=item2f420a611f:g:xzUAAOSw0P5enseV

Edited by J.R.

There are no separate VAG part numbers for the shear plate pulleys they are supplied with the compressor, to find one you need to do some Ebay searching, mine came from Lithuanian sellers.

 

On the old school E/M clutch controlled compessors you could buy the clutch & pulley assembly seperate from VAG, it had its own part number.

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Helpful responses all round. Thanks a lot.

 

Did more fording than I would have liked before Christmas and have been left with a noise which occurs when engine is revved (during driving or idling). I have VCDS and checked the turbo values which are ok. Noise actually Coming from alternator / ac compressor area. 

 

Voltages check out on Alternator. Just took it in for its MOT and garage said the noise is coming from the compressor. Can't see any wobble on pulleys though? Noise is a bit like a servo sort of sound. Doesn't change when ac is switched on or off.

 

Part number as written on compressor doesn't have lettered suffix i don't think - 2010 elegance 170.

Edited by pcdee
extra info

If you have VCDS then look at the A/C system pressure from within measuring blocks, run the engine with the A/C switched on and it should rise, switch off A/C and it should fall, if that is OK then I doubt that its at fault.

 

Secondly remove the auxiliary drive belt, run the engine & see if the noise has gone, if it has then turn all the pulleys & tensioner pulley, the A/C one should turn smoothly in either direction without any catching, the alternator should have a one way clutch which turns the shaft in one direction but not the other, tensioner pulley should turn smoothly.

  • Author

Just had the wheel arch and belt off and it's not the ac clutch which is my problem but the ac pulley (bearing). Anyone got a part number for this? I've looked on oemepc.com and the part number is missing annoyingly!

The bearing is not listed as an individual part, the part number is for a whole compressor, if you measure yours with luck it will be a standard bearing albeit probably expensive, I would use the pulley and bearing from a second hand unit, I threw away what you need a couple of years ago.

 

Editted, nice find Yety!

 

Cheap prices for the hub alone and they even list the bearing very cheaply, I will save the site!

Edited by J.R.

  • 2 years later...

I've always ( for a long time!) had scratchy, rumbling sort of noise when idling, as soon as the CC is switched on it goes away. Having been a smart **** a couple of years ago and finding a link to a from compressor bearing assy as above, I chickened out and left alone.

Last week I ordered the bearing assy from Warszawa and got my local garage to fit as it is wet out on the road this week.

First problem they had was the central torx screw proved difficult to remove (that must have me then back in 2012 when new using a drop of loctite) First struggle over, the bearing assy came out minus the bearing!! It is held in the pulley by several spot swaged points - but the bearing pulled out of the pulley assy. They got the bearing out on it's own with difficulty as there was signs of corrosion on the surface of the outer race. The bearing seemed to be fine, smooth and free running, but the belt tension pulley bearing was rough - slack and and rough when rotated. 

So - the new pulley/bearing assy was installed. A new idler pulley assy comes complete with bracket and bolted to the block with access after removing the CC compressor!! A bit of crafty dismantling got the new idler bearing back on the "old" bracket. Engine fired up and as silent as when new.

 

Sorry for the long saga, but the tensioner bearing was potentially more harmful as this belt has been known to get tangled up with the crank pulley, melt bits of the plastic timing belt cover and take out the timing belt - not an unusual occurrence on most cars. Mine was rumbling for a long time, so the "waste" of money in getting a new pulley assy when not really needed was worth it as the idler bearing was shot.

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