Yety

I've got a diesel, but the plastic looks similar. It's a water trap, any deep water ingress will be trapped and drained when the vehicle is clear of the water. Short term measure to try ensure the engine keeps running in deep water - but don't test it by driving through a river!

Yes, you're right. Almost able to wiggle out, but no. Unable to remove carrier out in the road, but they have been off before, so it might well be possible without having the car on a lift. Thanks to all for help.

Thanks very much. Do you know if these disc can be wiggled ouit?

Saving time and cold fingers yet again, the easy way is car reg : CK61 ORT. Many thanks.

Yes, you are right of course. I guess I assumed without elaborating, the bigger discs can not be wiggled out from the caliper carrier. I just want to know if the smaller disc can be maneuvered out from the carrier.

I've a Jan 2012 CFHF lowest power diesel (EA 189) - 103bhp , 4x4. Can the rear discs be replaced easily without the faff of the higher powered models which involve removal of the calipers. Without jacking it up and trying as I can't remember if I've replaced the discs before (stiff knees syndrome!). I guess OEM Skoda discs and pads are better than aftermarket ones which can sometimes be iffy, although cheaper. Any advice appreciated.

Not really as far as I know. The TC was twin SUs, I also had an alternator and an oil cooler off an MGB to cope with towing a caravan we had at the time. The handling on the road was a dreadful compared to comparative cars at the time, but it was cheap, reliable and never let us down.

We bought our only brand new car in Jan 2012. It's been the best car I've ever had. Lots of rally gravel (and worse) tracks over the years, now on 140k. Even kept company with a LR series 2, choosing the route by reading the road surface ahead and weaving about to suit. The down hill braking feature is superb after a nervous first run on a very rocky, wet excursion! The Yeti is so versatile: sleeping in, shifting stuff to the recycling centre etc. Before that my previous favourite cars have been a series of Montego diesel estates, Rover 400 company cars. Everything was better than our previous 1.8 Marina Coupe TC! Good to keep the forum going, still full of useful information from way back.

My Yeti has this problem, and has been getting worse over the years. I life on a hill with a sloping drive, big wood chocks are now needing to stop creep. Yes, hard foot braking and yanking on the hand brake lever has some effect, although the hand brake movement is twice the amount I can get without foot brake use. Many attempts have been made by dealers and indies to no effect. The sliders, pads and discs are all good. I think the problem is the automatic adjuster behind the hydraulic piston. I have some Golf Mk 4 rear calipers which I was going to fit on my MG, but didn't as I was able to rejuvenate my Rover 800 rear calipers which are OEM fitment. I've taken the Golf calipers apart, and the handbrake adjustment is a tightly clenched packaged unit which seems very difficult to find. I don't know if it is the same as in the Yeti, but I may have to get new rear calipers as it's getting worse all the time. The front discs are fine, disc wear is uniform and may be compensating for poor rear brakes. The rear discs look tatty, indicating not really working effectively? My MoT testing garage uses a Tapley meter, so I haven't any real data. It passes every time!!

Hydrate - 80 is excellent. I've used it for years - it works and you can use as a primer as it dries hard and can be sanded down ready for paint. Just used it on my Yeti, drivers door where the road grit runs down the seal and rubs the paint away. Nice and clean now in new paint, covered by a small patch of clear helicopter tape ready for the winter.

My handbrake has always been "weak" and has never held securely on my sloping drive without chocking. Despite many attempts by main dealer and indies to rectify - no success. The only way to get some sort of grip is the old dodge of standing on the foot brake and then applying the handbrake. The lever travels quite a distance, goes solid and holds on a hill with some creaking. I have some new Golf calipers which I was going to retro fit to my MG, but gave up for various reasons. Dismantling the caliper revealed the adjustment "cartridge" a clenched over little sealed unit: I think the problem lies here, and would seem to need new calipers to sort out.

Thanks, checked that out, but not the answer. The noise sounds like two heavy bits jiggling together somewhere under the N/S floor area. But as you say, odd noises are hard to track down. I need to get a new noise sorted, as it sounds like a CV joint starting to go. I have a local indie who is much better at listening to what you are saying, so I might be able to get both sorted when up in the air on a hoist.

I'm trying to track down some annoying "rattles" which have developed over the last few months. Checked ARB drop links, some plastic interior trim around the gear lever, adjusted the rear hatch stops, but although reduced the noise is still there over jiggly road surfaces. Is there any way to adjust the door shut clamping on the seals. I've sort of tried the catch on the door jamb, which on most cars I've had can re moved inwards slightly. These seem to be non adjustable, and I'm nervous of losing the interior threaded plate if it it is not captive. Any advice welcome.

Saw a question on DPF just now, and thought about something I've recently noticed on my car. I've been using VAG DPF since 2016 on and off. Recently the oil ash residue box shows (gm) instead of (l) - which I never knew what it represented - possibly litres? The car is up around 125k, mostly urban driving - although a recent re-gen occurred over 300 miles, and another over 250 miles. The other thing is CFHF engine type is still not an option - set to read from ECU. My question is, has a definitive max ash level been established? I know it's not space capsule instrumentation and there are many variables due to driving use/manner etc. I love the car so much and I'm of the old fashioned view that it is cheaper to repair rather than sell a good car and buy another at much cost. It would be nice to have a view for my OAP budget 😨

I've always ( for a long time!) had scratchy, rumbling sort of noise when idling, as soon as the CC is switched on it goes away. Having been a smart **** a couple of years ago and finding a link to a from compressor bearing assy as above, I chickened out and left alone. Last week I ordered the bearing assy from Warszawa and got my local garage to fit as it is wet out on the road this week. First problem they had was the central torx screw proved difficult to remove (that must have me then back in 2012 when new using a drop of loctite) First struggle over, the bearing assy came out minus the bearing!! It is held in the pulley by several spot swaged points - but the bearing pulled out of the pulley assy. They got the bearing out on it's own with difficulty as there was signs of corrosion on the surface of the outer race. The bearing seemed to be fine, smooth and free running, but the belt tension pulley bearing was rough - slack and and rough when rotated. So - the new pulley/bearing assy was installed. A new idler pulley assy comes complete with bracket and bolted to the block with access after removing the CC compressor!! A bit of crafty dismantling got the new idler bearing back on the "old" bracket. Engine fired up and as silent as when new. Sorry for the long saga, but the tensioner bearing was potentially more harmful as this belt has been known to get tangled up with the crank pulley, melt bits of the plastic timing belt cover and take out the timing belt - not an unusual occurrence on most cars. Mine was rumbling for a long time, so the "waste" of money in getting a new pulley assy when not really needed was worth it as the idler bearing was shot.