Hallo,

 

Has anybody out there had the clutch and flywheel (and also possibly gear box) replaced on a Yeti? If so, did you subsequently get a good bit more use and mileage from it? I think my Yeti’s engine at 86,000 miles should have a good bit of life left in it. Am I right? It’s a 2013 SE TDI. The 2ltr diesel with 2 wheel drive. 

57 minutes ago, ZJeffryes said:

Hallo,

 

Has anybody out there had the clutch and flywheel (and also possibly gear box) replaced on a Yeti? If so, did you subsequently get a good bit more use and mileage from it? I think my Yeti’s engine at 86,000 miles should have a good bit of life left in it. Am I right? It’s a 2013 SE TDI. The 2ltr diesel with 2 wheel drive. 

 

I would say under normal circumstances this car has most of it's life ahead of it.

 

What makes you think clutch, flywheel and gearbox are required?

Diagnosed clutch problem whilst still drivable by trusted local garage. They recommended Autotechnic, as unable to sort themselves. Autotechnic had a quick look for free and reckon clutch and flywheel needed as minimum. 
 

Early symptoms juddering and grinding in 2nd gear. Then struggled to get any gear until managed to select first and got stuck in it limping round massive motorway roundabout. Most scary! 

Clutch master cylinder, dont expect Autotechnic to be interested in the correct cheap solution when they can strap you up for a clutch, dmf and possibly gearbox.

 

On two different threads you have recounted two very different historys, one one the title is gearbox failure but you describe clutch problems, on this the title is clutch and flywheel but you speak of juddering and grinding in one gear and becoming stuck in first gear.

 

From reading them both I think its the master cylinder which is the cheapest and easiest job and should IMO be tackled first, it is a known weak component and you will read many threads on here and on other forums that describe exactly the problems that you have and many more where garages have played parts bingo with the customers wallet, several saying they never got to find out what as actually the cause as the garage had to replace everything.

Thanks Jr. I will definitely make them do the master cylinder first before going down any other route. 

Hi ZJeffryes

 

Some background info.  If you have a problem with the clutch hydraulics (master cylinder/pipework/slave cylinder) you can get a situation where the clutch won't disengage fully, called clutch drag.  Because the engine is still trying to turn the gears when you attempt to select them, you will find that the gear lever won't go into place, or there will be crunching noises as it goes in.  The lever may not disengage when you want it to either. This isn't a gearbox fault, it's a consequence of the clutch fault.

 

The main thing that wears in a clutch is the friction disc.  That's basically what is changed when you have a new clutch.  However, whilst it's all apart it is normal to also replace the clutch cover plate and the release bearing.  The cost of labour (remove gearbox etc) is more than the cost of the parts, so it makes sense to fit a full clutch kit of these 3 parts.

 

The flywheel face which bears on the friction disc should not need attention, unless you have run around a long time with a severely worn and slipping clutch.  So a flywheel is not routinely replaced as part of a clutch job. However, modern cars have dual mass flywheels which also have internal vibration absorbing springs and dampers.  These can occasionally wear prematurely and make noises whilst you are driving, in which case the flywheel will need replacing.

 

I agree with other posters, check the master cylinder and pipework first, which doesn't need any expensive dismantling of the clutch and gearbox.