Hey folks,

 

Anyone got any experience of 4x4 system problems?

 

I had a few issues that felt like the rear brakes were binding. They were and I have sorted them but it hasn’t fixed the problem and if anything, it got a lot worse. 
 

car drives forward ok. Reversing not so much. In reverse everything starts to lock up within less than a metre of moving. It feels like transmission windup, makes some unpleasant grinding noises and there is a burning smell. 
 

Any suggestions as to what it could be?

 

2009 octavia scout with 180,000 on the clock. 
 

It might well be the haldex system that is the issue.

So when was that serviced or when did the rear diff get an oil change if ever?

 

You need things checked out obviously.

Does it make any difference if you are reversing in a straight line or turning?

 

If the differential is undamaged it should not make any difference if the Haldx coupling is engaged or disengaged.

 

It does sound disturbing, try to have someone look at each rear wheel for signs of snatch or wind up when reversing especially if it is worse on a curved trajectory.

 

Have you by any chance paid a garage to change the Haldex fluid recently before this manifested?

 

Are the grinding noises from the front or rear?

 

Disconnecting the propshaft will prove definitively if its a front or rear transmission problem, I had a similar problem with the rear diff on a Suzuki Jeep, in order to be able to get to work that week I removed the propshaft and drove with FWD only with the 4WD lever engaged on the transfer box.

Edited 26 March, 20215 yr by J.R.

Hopefully the rear coupling is not like this.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/481392-4x4-rear-propshaft-coupling-damper

 

 

Thanks all.

the haldex oil was change a few weeks ago. not sure about the rear diff, assuming that’s a different unit. Why would a haldex oil change be significant??
 

the problem is there in a straight line going backwards. 
 

The rear prop shaft damper was a bit worn when I looked a few weeks ago. 

The Haldex Oil change done properly is important so that there is an idea that all is well there.

So was the pump cleaned?

The other thing important about it done correctly is that you know the correct oil was drained and then that oil replaced, and not an error that sometimes happens like the Rear Diff gets drained, when it is the Haldex oil that is supposed to be getting done.

 

eg

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/428562-rear-diff-failure-following-haldex-oil-change

 

Edited 26 March, 20215 yr by e-Roottoot

The local independence VAG  specialists just had a look and said it’s either the transfer box or gearbox. 
 

both need to come out and be looked at by a specialist. 
 

starting to think a new car is needed. 

If the Haldex oil change was done recently then I would be fairly confident that they made a mistake and drained the diff oil by mistake, easily done, I have done it myself with another Briskodian watchng over me (was blind in one eye following an operation), many other examples on the internet.

 

With the above knowledge and in the absence of you saying that the noise is comng from the front I would respectfully say that the garage is incorrect to be suggesting problems at the front end, was it them who did the Haldex oil change by any chance?

 

I would get all 4 wheels off the ground and inspect the rear diff carefully, look at the 2 drain plugs and you may well see traces that the wrong one has been undone, drain a little diff oil (if there is any inside) it should be like new fluid from a sealed container, rotate the propshaft while listening to the diff with the coupling engaged via VCDS or rotate the wheels, have someone stop one wheel and then the other while you are turning the propshaft or the other wheel.

 

Do the same at the front if the rear seems OK, remove the propshaft if you are still in doubt.

 

Dont mention my suspicions to the garage until you or someone else has investigated.

 

Have they by any chance retained the vehicle while you decide?

Edited 26 March, 20215 yr by J.R.

2 hours ago, Jondotnet said:

The local independence VAG  specialists just had a look and said it’s either the transfer box or gearbox. 
 

 

They could be right.  There is a potential issue with the gearboxes on these.  My son had an '07 and if I remember correctly, one of the bearings failed and the layshaft ate its way into the end casing of the gearbox.  

 

We got another gearbox from a local breaker.  

Absolutely but a couple of weeks after a Haldex service is exactly the answer I was hoping the OP would not give

 

A gear selector problem (2 gears engaged) reverse idler shaft problem etc would not allow the car to reverse 1m before binding up and only cause problems in reverse, the offset pinion on the rear differential might especially as the haldex would not initially transfer any power.

To be fair, 1m is optimistic. It’s really an inch or two before it all goes wrong. 
 

the Indy garage has the car and are getting me an idea of how much gearbox/transfer box work might cost. Already estimated 6 hours just to remove!

 

Let’s say it is down to the Haldex service. 

 

how would I check it?

what would be wrong with it?

what would the fix be?

if it’s 6 hours to remove and 6 hours to refit plus work on the boxes, it’s coming home and I will find some time to see if I can fix it. In the last 18 months it’s had new dmf and clutch, new timing belt, new radiator, new discs and pads plus 2 new callipers. It’s been a really good car but at 12 years old and 180k miles I can’t justify dropping another £1-2k into it. If I can swap out a diff or transfer box for a few hundred (assuming it’s just nut and bolt work) then it may be worth the effort. 
 

This car was supposed to be the reliable one so I could spend my spare time constantly fixing the Landrover. 
 

 

 

Edited 26 March, 20215 yr by Jondotnet

An inch could be the gearbox, I doubt that the transfer box would work in one direction and not the other, gear selector linkage could also be a possibility, that is quite easy to reset in order to rule out.

 

I described earlier what to look for and how to check the rear diff, if it was drained then the failure will be comprehensive, the fix will be as you describe:

 

If I can swap out a diff or transfer box for a few hundred (assuming it’s just nut and bolt work) then it may be worth the effort. 

 

I will ultimately have to do the same with my diff, I drove it too long before realising, its noisy but not failed................ yet!

Thinking back, the first signs of a serious issue were actually going forwards. At approx 50mph something at the back locked up briefly. I thought it was the brakes and one of the rear callipers was binding. Fixed that but the current issues surfaced. 
 

sounds like it’s a case of get it home, Get it jack up and on lots of stands and then start spinning things.  

Good move, I'm sure all will be revealed now you know what to look out for.