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Fitting aftermarket headunit to Octavia MK1 - What is required?

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This must be a question that will be of use to many (including myself). Please keep replies to answering the questions ;)

If you plan to fit an aftermarket head unit, what adaptors/tools do you require?

1) Where can you source the head unit removal tool (other than a Skoda dealer)? I heard someone mention pop rivets but there seems to be a pair of thin slots on the fascia of my Skoda unit so pop-rivets wouldnt fit :confused:

2) Will the wiring harness connect straight to an aftermarket unit? Do I need to buy an adaptor from Halfords etc?

3) What is the diagnostic machine problem with aftermarket units? Will they blow up a VAG-COM laptop or similar device too?

4) Do I need an aerial booster to compensate for the lack of power to the OEM aerial once the Skoda head unit is removed?

Kenwood keys remove the oem skoda head units fine. :) I've got none left now though.

New Head unit should come with ISO connector block - usually looks like a 2 into 1 and usually you can't mess it up as they've got slots so only 1 of the car's wiring fits in 1 of the slots. :)

Never had vag com issues with any head unit I've ever used.

Yes, you need a booster signal - at least you do in a fabia. Looks kind of like a small silver dildo. :D It usually gets power from the head units remote wire cable (blue and white from memory)

Not sure if the octy needs a blanking off panel like the fabia does? :confused:

You may need to do the yellow/red wire switcheroo on the aftermarket unit so it powers off fully when the key is pulled out the lock. :)

two junior hacksaw blades with the pins pushed out, very easy.

two junior hacksaw blades with the pins pushed out, very easy.

Can vouch for these as thats what I used.

Wiring, well with the Octy you could just get the booster and stick the ISO connectors into the new HU but you will have 2 problems.

1) The positive wires are wired the opposite to ISO standards so everytime you remove the key the radio will forget its settings.

2) The canbus connection on pin1 will still be connected, and your nice HU will be sending 12 volts down a wire thats not designed to take it. This may or may not cause strange electrical problems. There have been reports of issues with the central locking on here relating to this. Another side effect is your dealers VAS???? or VAG???? maybe blown up when plugged into the diagnostic port.

Getting the VW wiring kit from Halfords or bluespot gives you everything you need without doing what I did and hacking the octavia's wiring loom. It took me a while to resolder and tape everything back to oem a couple of weeks ago.

bullet connectors on the relevant wires, female at the car end, male at the iso end.

Everything you need to change/disconnect things and put them back when you are all done and want to put he stock one back to sell.

Whole kit with the crimp tool and a selection of connectors is about £5 at halfords.

Rewiring is too fidly at the best of times ill be taking the adapters when i get mine :D

The K wire may well be connected on PIN 1, can bus however will not (this is a pair of wires).

K wire is pin 3

8 Pin Multi Connector Black

1. Signal For Anti Theft Alarm

2. Telephone Mute

3. Data Link Connector (DLC)

4. Ignition Switch -S- Contact

5. Positive (B+) Supply (Anti Theft)

6. Illumination, Terminal 58b

7. Battery Positive (B+) Supply (Unit Power)

8. Ground (GND) Supply

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