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Limp mode/boost issues - codes P1592 & P1619

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Since installing my fmic, my fabia has had issues with falling into limp mode and even when forced out of limp mode, it doesn't run correctly. EML is constantly on. I have been using a 4 bar map sensor for my hybrid turbo since installing the fmic, but u even tried the original 3 bar map sensor, even that didn't make a difference. I took it to the garage who believe it is a wiring issue, however, they claim the voltage is fine so they are unsure where the issue could be coming from. I personally believe it is wiring due to the map sensor connector being pulled as far as it could to force the fit into the new fmic aluminium piping. Also the fact that glow plug relay issue is popping up, which I assume is caused by the same wiring as the map sensor. 

 

Has anybody else had issues with these two codes previously? Out of options of what to do... 

 

Codes:

P1592 - ALTITUDE SIGNAL/BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR IMPLAUSIBLE RATIO. 

P1619 - GLOW PLUG RELAY (J52) OPEN OR SHORT TO GROUND. 

IMG-20210524-WA0002.jpg

  • Author

Could I also add that another mechanic garage checked the wiring and said the voltage is fine and that they believe it may be the map sensor. However, could a faulty 4 bar map sensor cause the glow plug relay to act up? 

  • Author

Bump

18 hours ago, DiazFabia said:

Could I also add that another mechanic garage checked the wiring and said the voltage is fine and that they believe it may be the map sensor. However, could a faulty 4 bar map sensor cause the glow plug relay to act up? 

 

No.

 

Sounds like the loom has been strained instead of extending it properly.

Try a proper auto electrician instead of a grease monkey.

  • Author

Will the entire wiring loom require replacing? Or only the damaged part? 

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Would I need a mechanic to inspect the entire loom? As the current mechanics I've been to are apprehensive when it comes to inspecting the entire wiring loom top to bottom

Take the car to an auto electrician, not a mechanic, they are different trades, mechanics are usually very bad electricians.

Hence your problems.

  • Author

Turned out it was the Chinese map sensor that was causing these issues. Put a bosch one in and its working again. Just small boost leak but that's a matter for another day

6 hours ago, DiazFabia said:

Turned out it was the Chinese map sensor

If I had a pound for every time someone has been advised to only buy genuine MAPs or MAFs...

  • Author

Lol Chinese parts are a bitch. Now I wonder if anyone has a cure for my other questions.

My car revs up slowly to catch the idle and idles quite high. If I don't keep the key turned over until it catches, it seems to stall. This has nothing to do with my boost leak, however, could this be linked to the glow plug relay? It does this whether the car is cold or hot. 

  • Author

Revs also move slowly when the clutch isn't pressed in, but when it starts moving the revs move slowly with the clutch pressed in. E.g. When I rev match, the revs don't jump as fast as they should. 

11 hours ago, DiazFabia said:

My car revs up slowly to catch the idle and idles quite high.

What does this even mean? An rpm number would be good. Also, is this all the time or only on a cold start?

  • Author

It means the car struggles to catch when it turns on so I have to hold the key turnt in the ignition for a few extra seconds or else it dies. It happens every time I start up, not when cold only.  Idles around 1k almost.

28 minutes ago, DiazFabia said:

It means the car struggles to catch when it turns on so I have to hold the key turnt in the ignition for a few extra seconds or else it dies. It happens every time I start up, not when cold only.  Idles around 1k almost.

Ok, for sure there's something wrong there. Actually probably several somethings. Even with dead glowplugs, a 1.9TDi usually fires inside about 3s, with at worst a puff of white smoke that lasts maybe 5s, and it idles around 850rpm give or take the thickness of the tacho needle.

 

So I'd start by checking the voltage draw of the glowplugs when first switched on but not started. I'd also get someone who really knows about diesel systems, like a Bosch engineer, or, if you happen to live in Yorkshire, Feather Diesel, to look at the idle control. Do NOT waste your money on a VAG main stealer.

  • Author

It'll ignite right away, but if I don't hold on for a good 2 seconds extra, it'll die. But I've noticed this happens only once it's warmed up. It'll start up, albeit slowly, but without it dying.

Definitely need to get this checked out. Got my mind boggled. 

10 hours ago, DiazFabia said:

Definitely need to get this checked out. Got my mind boggled.

Me too, hence the recommendations of a network of good diesel service technicians.

On 30/05/2021 at 13:46, DiazFabia said:

It means the car struggles to catch when it turns on so I have to hold the key turnt in the ignition for a few extra seconds or else it dies. It happens every time I start up, not when cold only.  Idles around 1k almost.

 

I think 950rpm is the standard idle speed on these. Both my fabia and the Ibiza before it seemed to sit there. I'm guessing vag made it that way so it sounds smoother. 

On 29/05/2021 at 21:19, DiazFabia said:

Revs also move slowly when the clutch isn't pressed in, but when it starts moving the revs move slowly with the clutch pressed in. E.g. When I rev match, the revs don't jump as fast as they should. 

 

And again, that's just the way these are, the throttle response is pretty slow on them. A bigger cold air intake between the grill and the airbox (Ibiza cupra was a popular mod back in the day, not cheap now though), or just taking the pipe off altogether can improve it.

 

You probably won't get it to rev-match nicely. I normally rev-match in my SDI caddy, mainly because I've got **** knees, but the fabia doesn't like it. 

  • Author
On 01/06/2021 at 10:48, StevesTruck said:

 

And again, that's just the way these are, the throttle response is pretty slow on them. A bigger cold air intake between the grill and the airbox (Ibiza cupra was a popular mod back in the day, not cheap now though), or just taking the pipe off altogether can improve it.

 

You probably won't get it to rev-match nicely. I normally rev-match in my SDI caddy, mainly because I've got **** knees, but the fabia doesn't like it. 

Well I could rev match it well before this hybrid turbo upgrade but now ti doesn't rev as fast when downshifting. But I'm definitely open to buying a pd160 intake to improve things so could be a good idea. 

19 minutes ago, DiazFabia said:

Well I could rev match it well before this hybrid turbo upgrade but now ti doesn't rev as fast when downshifting. But I'm definitely open to buying a pd160 intake to improve things so could be a good idea. 

 

It will do absolutely nothing since the standard intake isn't restrictive.

 

The poor throttle response is down to the mapping.

  • Author
25 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

It will do absolutely nothing since the standard intake isn't restrictive.

 

The poor throttle response is down to the mapping.

The standard intake may be a little restrictive. It's running about 238 bhp and plenty torque so it may make a difference. Just need to find a cheap one off Facebook. Thing is, the throttle response is slow when parked and revving off the clutch, but fast when pressing the clutch. Then when actually driving, the response is slow when pressing the clutch to downshift. 

The intake could only be restrictive at WOT under full boost conditions at higher RPM.

 

The ECU knows when you're on the clutch because there's a switch on the pedal, hence my reference to the map.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

I think it's most likely the map as I bought the turbo and ecu off the same person and I found out theirs is asz not blt engined. So different fuel injectors which are mapped differently which is probably causing my issue. Thanks everyone 👍🏽

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