Oh No another mk2 VRS (2011) Over heating issues

[Mrr4nd411]

57 minutes ago, bigjohn said:

It has two cooling circuits with the two water pumps & thermostats - designed for rapid warm up to reduce emissions etc.

Hey @bigjohn 

 

I have replaced the mechanical water pump as I had read it was a common failure point, I haven’t touched the aux pump however flow in the pipes can be felt while the pump if running after turning the car off, I guess it could not be working optimally, as for the stats I have recently removed both, keeping them out isn’t a long term solution, it was more to see if it changed my symptoms, I found one stat had been broken closed and thought this was the answer to my nightmares however even with completely free flow I am still having overheating.

 

The rad has crossed my mind multiple times however while the engine bay is covered in coolant residue the rad appears to have none, I haven’t checked temps across the core but top and bottom pipes are both hot after a short drive, what’s bothering me the most is that I can drive the car around at 30-60mph with light throttle with zero issues, but sustained 70mph or 3/4 throttle accelerations is causing temp changes to oil and coolant and a loss of coolant too.

 

Because of this I think the engine failure is only showing up under boost, considering the level of workmanship I have uncovered so far on relatively un-invasive work I have serious trust issues. Although I would love to know the issue for my own peace of mind and possibly to help others in a similar situation in the future. Since the car does run and drive and completes some journeys with no issue I’ll probably continue driving it until I’ve found a suitable donor engine 😞

 

I can’t lie I have fallen in love with my little fabia but until I stop staring at my temp gauges I can’t really enjoy it

[sepulchrave]

14 hours ago, Mrr4nd411 said:

Okey dokey..

 

little update:

compression test and leak down test done today,

 

compression on all 4 cylinders was between 145-150psi.. nice and matchy 

 

leakdown test was below 20% on all 4 cylinders.. again nice and matchy… 

 

Still over heating.. still losing coolant. Still no sign of where coolant is going, noticed it spitting some watery substance from the exhaust when bounced off the 4K soft rev limit, didn’t smell like antifreeze but probably is.

 

at this point I think I’m going to change the engine, I’m sick of this one, I’ll take this engine apart once it’s out the car

 

I think you're almost there, you've proved the engine core is solid so you don't need to change it.

Flush the cooling system properly with a hose while the thermostats are out in case there is oil emulsion from the previous HGF trapped in the rad or the matrix.

[J.R.]

I have not read all the postings but have you not tried a cheap combustion residue test of a sample drawn from the coolant? They are very cheap, easy to use and will tell you definitively if the problem is a combustion leak under boost.

[Mrr4nd411]

1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

 

I think you're almost there, you've proved the engine core is solid so you don't need to change it.

Flush the cooling system properly with a hose while the thermostats are out in case there is oil emulsion from the previous HGF trapped in the rad or the matrix.

Yes, I think this will be a last ditch effort, but your right, it’s worth trying before going to the effort of removing everything, when I have some time I’ll have a go!

[Mrr4nd411]

24 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I have not read all the postings but have you not tried a cheap combustion residue test of a sample drawn from the coolant? They are very cheap, easy to use and will tell you definitively if the problem is a combustion leak under boost.

I haven’t seen a tester that uses the coolant as a sample, I have used the tester that uses a liquid that reacts to co2 attached to the top of the expansion tank, but applying boost while testing is challenging, too sudden accel/decel while having it attached either blows the liquid out the tester or sucks it into the expansion tank, plus the bonnet needs to be open and I don’t have anywhere to do it that isn’t public, if you have an example of the tester can you link it? 
 

thanks!

[J.R.]

My apologies, you are 100% correct, I had bought from Ebay but had yet to use it, I was sure that it drew fluid but have just checked it and it is indeed a sniffer, I can see your problem.

[Mickmartin]

5 hours ago, bigjohn said:

 

The tsi is well known for producing water& vapour out of the exhaust - my CAXA does this sometimes especially when cold but mine doesn't loose coolant.  

 

Have you checked the water pumps (there are two)  as these are a known fail?  I believe this engine has a fairly small water capacity so is rather sensitive to coolant level. Worth checking before you start removing the engine. It has two cooling circuits with the two water pumps & thermostats - designed for rapid warm up to reduce emissions etc.

 

What state is the radiator in - with previous issues it could be partially blocked? When warm is the temperature consistent across the core? Also any staining at the edges where it joins the core - common leak point.

 

I does sound as thought he engine has had a previous major fail though and the way the bores are designed could spell bad news although this would possibly have show up with the compression test.

 

 

 

I'm sure I read the OP put "steel seal" in as a quick fix to repair the head gasket, This could in theory cause blockages as I personally wouldn't dare put  that or similar products like rad weld etc in a modern car, never mind  of these little complexed engines.

Edited 4 October, 2021 by Mickmartin

[Mickmartin]

18 hours ago, Mrr4nd411 said:

Okey dokey..

 

little update:

compression test and leak down test done today,

 

compression on all 4 cylinders was between 145-150psi.. nice and matchy 

 

leakdown test was below 20% on all 4 cylinders.. again nice and matchy… 

 

Still over heating.. still losing coolant. Still no sign of where coolant is going, noticed it spitting some watery substance from the exhaust when bounced off the 4K soft rev limit, didn’t smell like antifreeze but probably is.

 

at this point I think I’m going to change the engine, I’m sick of this one, I’ll take this engine apart once it’s out the car

 

Bare in mind, You can pretty much pick up a whole car for the money some breakers want for an engine, Break the car and make your money back if your heading this route.

Edited 4 October, 2021 by Mickmartin

[Mrr4nd411]

1 hour ago, Mickmartin said:

 

I'm sure I read the OP put "steel seal" in as a quick fix to repair the head gasket, This could in theory cause blockages as I personally wouldn't dare put  that or similar products like rad weld etc in a modern car, never mind  of these little complexed engines.

Agreed, under normal circumstances I wouldn’t put steel seal into any engine but after ringing round a few garages and a very specialist who all refused to do a HG (the specialist actually quoted me for a new long block with a total price of £5200) I felt it was a do or die situation for my engine, as it turns out the leak tester showed the HG leaking pre steel seal and not leaking after (still wouldn’t advise anyone using steel seal), there may well be a blockage somewhere though, unsure if it was blocked before or not though.

 

1 hour ago, Mickmartin said:

 

Bare in mind, You can pretty much pick up a whole car for the money some breakers want for an engine, Break the car and make your money back if your heading this route.

I have a plan for my parts and a spending limit, I will update if all goes to plan with a total cost breakdown in the future. If not I will probably break the car as it’s in very good condition 

[Mickmartin]

1 hour ago, Mrr4nd411 said:

 

 

I have a plan for my parts and a spending limit, I will update if all goes to plan with a total cost breakdown in the future. If not I will probably break the car as it’s in very good condition 

 

You'll pick up a whole car for under £1500 if you ever head that route,  Going rate is usually around  £1200 with gearbox or engine issues ,I managed to pick one up a 2011 for £750 with a simple mechatronics fix.

Edited 4 October, 2021 by Mickmartin

[thomasaspin]

On 04/10/2021 at 16:26, Mrr4nd411 said:

Agreed, under normal circumstances I wouldn’t put steel seal into any engine but after ringing round a few garages and a very specialist who all refused to do a HG (the specialist actually quoted me for a new long block with a total price of £5200) I felt it was a do or die situation for my engine, as it turns out the leak tester showed the HG leaking pre steel seal and not leaking after (still wouldn’t advise anyone using steel seal), there may well be a blockage somewhere though, unsure if it was blocked before or not though.

 

I have a plan for my parts and a spending limit, I will update if all goes to plan with a total cost breakdown in the future. If not I will probably break the car as it’s in very good condition 

Would be interested in the old engine if you are stripping it as want to forge one